The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[in stitches]



Hi Scott,

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

unlike with certain guitars, in the price range you are considering for a watch, even with smaller companies you probably are not getting any real hand workmanship.  Most very small independents in this price range rely on a variety of sources and simply cobble together a watch.  Sorry, but I've seen watches like this and I don't believe there is as much hand workmanship by this manufacturer as they would like you to believe. 

As for the JLC chronograph in your photo, I think at 34 mm on a 7.5 inch wrist, its going to look like you borrowed your girlfriend's watch.  If you stick with a round case don't go below 36 mm.  Square or rectangular cases wear larger and so you have more room to deviate when it comes to case size on those.

Wish you luck on your hunt for the right watch.

dropping knowledge per usual. agree with all that. not much more to say.

that being said, imo, dont let anyone tell you what to buy. ask questions about things you are unsure of, gather data, and then decide based on what appeals most to you. do that, and you have the highest chance of being confident and happy with your purchase, whatever it may be.

it is. They go for REALLY reasonable too...which is why i wanted to kop one awhile back. but it was just too small for my liking.

BFAM!

 

[scottcw]



that being said, imo, dont let anyone tell you what to buy. ask questions about things you are unsure of, gather data, and then decide based on what appeals most to you. do that, and you have the highest chance of being confident and happy with your purchase, whatever it may be.

Exactly what I am hoping for from the generous knowledge of others.

I will say that my hesitancy with vintage is not knowing reputable dealers and not knowing anything about what to look for with respect to movements, authenticity, etc. Buying new from an AD eliminates those concerns.

 

[in stitches]



Exactly what I am hoping for from the generous knowledge of others.

I will say that my hesitancy with vintage is not knowing reputable dealers and not knowing anything about what to look for with respect to movements, authenticity, etc. Buying new from an AD eliminates those concerns.

very good.

that is a fair point, but you can always ask questions to the dealer, ask people here, and get references when buying vintage. i understand you are uncomfortable with that, i was very hesitant about going outside an AD as well, but if you poke around a bit, it will open up your options significantly. just make sure you are comfortable with the transaction. i had a lot of hand holding when i bought non AD, both from the seller, and people here, and i am glad i went for it.

 

[Dino944]

Reading up on Habring, it seems they are using Ebauche movements. Although the ebauche movement industry is currently undergoing a drastic restructuring, it would be safe to assume they use either Sellita or ETA SA. In either case, parts should be easy to come by.
In contrast to other manufacturers we do not order finished movements and simply put them into a shell. We usually work with so-called “ebauches‿, i.e. basic movements with no decoration whatsoever. Whether hand-made engravings as with the “Carinthian‿ or diversified decorative grinding - these are always applied after the components have passed the receiving inspection. Galvanising treatment such as gold plating or rhodium plating serves to protect the surfaces. We even grind screws by hand.

On principle, movements could be installed after these steps; however, we improve each subassembly in detail. This is achieved by replacing individual components with ones of higher quality. One example would be, for instance, the "Triovis" regulation-system which guarantees a far superior accuracy than the standard system. The balance wheel cannot be "studded", i.e. the spiral attached externally, before this component is mounted. Balance wheels and other parts of the escapement do not belong to the ebauche subassembly, neither do anti-shock components nor the winding spring. As a matter of principle, only the best quality of each particular component will find a place in a Habring². For instance, balance wheel, anchor and escapement wheel must be of chronometer quality.

Quality is improved continuously both during and after movement assembly. This process includes, among other things, optimising the endshake of each wheel or other components, adjusting the escapement, balancing the balance wheel, etc.

Its not necessarily the movement that will be an issue with respect to parts, its small proprietary parts that get worn out or damaged. My friend's watch that he could not get repaired was powered by an ETA movement, the problem was a broken bezel that could not be replaced or repaired. It still told time, but it looked like crap.

 

[Shikar]

Took the stickers off and sized it today.

Regards.

 

[Newcomer]

Very nice! I hope it brings you much happiness!

 

[in stitches]



Very nice! I hope it brings you much happiness!

+1. look beautiful.

 

[no frills]

Sometimes you bump into timepieces that take your breath away, even when you're wearing your grail.



Which one do you prefer? Left: perpetual calendar chronograph in platinum (Patek ref 3970P) or perpetual calendar minute repeater (Patek ref 3974J)?

 

[in stitches]

i do love, and i mean LOVE, a repeater, but i think the day date on the perp cal chrono evens out the dial nicer. will take both to go please!

 

[Newcomer]

I agree with Stitchy. Minute repeater aside, I like yours better.

 

[Dino944]

Aside from the entertaining chiming, there is a rarity factor that makes the minute repeater an incredibly special. Lots of people have chronographs, even from top brands. There are also probably a good number of perpetual calendar watch owners out there. The number of people with perpetual calendar chronographs is probably small. But if you want to go somewhere and probably be the only guy at an event with an unusual and complicated watch go for a minute repeater.

That ,being said I'd opt for the 3970. It's sibling the 3974 is an interesting watch, but to me it seems like something more suitable for my father or grandfather. The 3970 is a slightly more sporty option and something that IMHO could be worn by some of any age group. I'd go with a 3970, but really either would be fine with me.

 

[Newcomer]

If I was to have the... blessing to purchase a minute repeater, I think I would have to pick this bad boy.

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[in stitches]

minute repeaters are indeed fantastic. i have had the pleasure of handling of a few, and they are a true treat to operate and listen to, as they sound off their various chimes. pulling the lever (the distinct feel and sound of doing so, is a pleasure in its own right) and and then hearing the gongs is as soft a beauty as a watch offers.

tourbillons as well. seeing a picture, or even a video, in no way compares to holding one in your hand, and watching the little marvel twist and twirl in your grasp. glistening and spinning like magic as the seconds go on. emotionless to the passage of time, and yet so beautiful and elegant.

ahhh watches

 

[no frills]

Ah, so glad to feel all the love for the 3970 here. Yes, I quite like its aesthetics and I dare say I prefer it over the very understated 3974.

But to hear this sound... (yes, that's actually the watch I was viewing, and me and Patek Philippe USA Director of Technical Service Laurent Junod speaking in the background)...


It was quite heavenly.

But, no plans to get a minute repeater anytime soon. After all, as Patek USA President Larry Pettinelli literally said to me a few hours ago: "... I'm not sure I'll ever wear or own a minute repeater. I do have kids I plan to send to College..."

Went on an awesome guided tour of Patek USA's new facilities this afternoon. Check out the full pictorial documentation I posted here:

http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=295137

Some fine timepieces there!

 

[mimo]

+1 on the 3970P. From a purely aesthetic point of view, it's pretty hard to beat.