The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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  2. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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  3. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Or going back to a previous post, a used Datejust or Air King might fit the "do everything" requirement well within budget.
     


  4. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    It doesn't have to be new. I know it is blasphemy, but Rolex does not appeal to me. I am looking at JLC watches in my budget.



    I would compromise versatility, not quality.



    See above, neither watch appeals to me.


    I appreciate all the input and JLC is certainly a contender and maybe even the Speedmaster.

    While I understand the concerns about parts, here is another Habring in my budget that has a vintage 1960's Valjoux 7733 movement that the Habring's have remanufactured. This is a little on the sporty side and is 42mm, so maybe I am compromising dressiness with this one.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013


  5. DLJr

    DLJr TWAT Master.

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    But what is your definition of "quality"? It's why I put the word in quotes. What types of movements are non starters? What examples of finishing quality are non starters? Are Nomos, Stowa, Hamilton non starters? I still consider them to be "quality" watches, but you may not.
     


  6. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Understood. The Master Control is a good bet for versatility, but if it doesn't have enough personality, then how about this? Available used in your price range, certainly smart enough for formal wear, but flip it over and it's good enough for fighting on horseback! Certainly setting you apart from the crowd, certainly versatile, and to my mind the one, original, absolutely JLC-only watch.

    [​IMG]
     


  7. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Also, I am questioning why you are so intent on the Habring2s. Would you mind explaining why you are drawn to them? Are you unconcerned about the availability of parts? Perhaps if you told us more about what you want from the purchase, it would be easier to help! (I do not mean to be terse, just trying to nail it down!)
     


  8. DLJr

    DLJr TWAT Master.

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    Yeah, I'm not getting the draw, but I also don't know much about them. Do you like them because they aren't well known? Do you like their look? Do you like independents?

    Help us, help you.

    But you do seem drawn to Habring2, so perhaps there should be less listening to us, and more going on what you seem to be drawn towards.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013


  9. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    100% agree with this..

     


  10. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    I like the small company aesthetic with a lot of handwork rather than a large company. Sort of like choosing a small luthier to hand make a guitar instead of buying a Gibson or Fender. Gibson and Fender makes some great guitars, but I am drawn to the little guy.

    I also love their very clean look. I don't like clutter.

    I am open to alternatives whether new or used, but the Habring2 watches are very appealing.

    Maybe it would help if I share what I DO like... numbers only at 12, 3, 6 and 9 at most. Clean, easy to read dial, conservative with maybe a flash of something interesting like a chronometer, but done subtly.

    This JLC. I like how they were able to fit so much without appearing cluttered. If I were to nitpick, I don't care for the gold markers/hands. I would prefer a monochromatic look. And it is 34mm, which seems small.

    [​IMG]


    This Rolex (yes, I know I said Rolex doesn't appeal, this is an exception). Again, clean, uncluttered, timeless (pun intended).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013


  11. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    Double post, mea culpa.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013


  12. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    iirc correctly i tried this on. it was freaking tiny on me.
     


  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Regarding your comment on Rolex... BOOOOOO !!! Just kidding. I was only throwing it out there because in the $3-4K you could easily do a Datejust, which is very versatile. However, JLC makes some fantastic watches and I'm sure you can easily find something great from them in your price range.
    +1
    They make a decent looking watch, but I don't really see the draw myself.

    I know he isn't a fan of Rolex, and maybe not such a fan of the Speedy Pro, and is considering a JLC....to me JLC, Rolex, Omega, or maybe even an IWC are all no brainers. I can't see spending good money on a watch if parts availability could be a problem a few years down the road (but to each his own). Stick with the major brands and for the most part its a non-issue.

    +1
    Some times the heart wants what it wants....perhaps that is what he must follow.
     


  14. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Hi Scott,

    unlike with certain guitars, in the price range you are considering for a watch, even with smaller companies you probably are not getting any real hand workmanship. Most very small independents in this price range rely on a variety of sources and simply cobble together a watch. Sorry, but I've seen watches like this and I don't believe there is as much hand workmanship by this manufacturer as they would like you to believe.

    As for the JLC chronograph in your photo, I think at 34 mm on a 7.5 inch wrist, its going to look like you borrowed your girlfriend's watch. If you stick with a round case don't go below 36 mm. Square or rectangular cases wear larger and so you have more room to deviate when it comes to case size on those.

    Wish you luck on your hunt for the right watch.
     


  15. kungapa

    kungapa Senior member

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    Reading up on Habring, it seems they are using Ebauche movements. Although the ebauche movement industry is currently undergoing a drastic restructuring, it would be safe to assume they use either Sellita or ETA SA. In either case, parts should be easy to come by.

    In contrast to other manufacturers we do not order finished movements and simply put them into a shell. We usually work with so-called “ebauches‿, i.e. basic movements with no decoration whatsoever. Whether hand-made engravings as with the “Carinthian‿ or diversified decorative grinding - these are always applied after the components have passed the receiving inspection. Galvanising treatment such as gold plating or rhodium plating serves to protect the surfaces. We even grind screws by hand.

    On principle, movements could be installed after these steps; however, we improve each subassembly in detail. This is achieved by replacing individual components with ones of higher quality. One example would be, for instance, the "Triovis" regulation-system which guarantees a far superior accuracy than the standard system. The balance wheel cannot be "studded", i.e. the spiral attached externally, before this component is mounted. Balance wheels and other parts of the escapement do not belong to the ebauche subassembly, neither do anti-shock components nor the winding spring. As a matter of principle, only the best quality of each particular component will find a place in a Habring². For instance, balance wheel, anchor and escapement wheel must be of chronometer quality.

    Quality is improved continuously both during and after movement assembly. This process includes, among other things, optimising the endshake of each wheel or other components, adjusting the escapement, balancing the balance wheel, etc.
     


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