Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.
From Patek's annual and perpetual lineup I've tried on, the moonphases appeared non-applied.
Very handsome, but appears to be non applied.
It certainly looked flat versus the raised goodness you can readily observe from the Lange 1 moonphase, but I was thrown off by what seems to be these raised/etched borders around the stars.
Here is the "official" description from Patek:
"A disc, decorated with golden stars and two golden moons against a blue background representing the sky, rotates within an aperture. The disc is cut from a wafer of corundum crystal (sapphire).
Gold was condensed onto the disc by means of a vacuum process through a photographic mask to create the shape of the moons and stars."
I do like how the dimensions of Lange's moon and stars look like they are jumping from the disc. It's lovely.
However, why not extend the whole "moon likeness" and all with THIS:
No stars though. Figure that might be tough to really get a likeness of that one, although I'd sure like to see some watchmakers try:
Baumer & Mercier,
Considering buying this used for around 1200$. Think it looks great, currently waiting for confirmation on the condition.
It seems to have this model number: MV045216
Does anyone have any good information on the movement, or any tips? Says it´s automatic.
Would be my first "better" watch, and kind of between this and some Oris watch. Want to buy the Omega Speedmaster Professional in the future, but currently it´s a bit too expensive. I have read many different opinions of the Baumer & Mercier watches, but personally I think this would look amazing with a brown leather (possibly matt crocodile) strap. Open to other suggestions!
That's a nice watch. Capeland chrongraph.
Here's a link to it with more info and how it looks with a strap
That seems to be a good price with a bracelet. Personally for my first watch I might opt for a new watch from Oris or Hamilton. But if you really like this style and it fits your budget then go for it. I wasn't sure how it would look on a strap with those lugs but it actually looks pretty nice based on that link
It looks nice, but if I were you, I would hold out for the Speedy Pro. This B&M is likely equipped with a Valjoux 7750, judging by the 6, 9, 12 subdial configuration and date. It could also be the ETA equivalent. Sturdy, robust movements. Aesthetically it is not my favorite thing out there, but that is a choice only you can make!
With discount, a Speedy Pro will run you ~$3,300. If you go used, you can easily get it under $3,000. Personally, I think it is better to hold out for what you really want. Otherwise you just will not be completely satisfied. My recommendation is exacerbated by the fact that this watch and the Speedy will play similar 'roles.' When you acquire a Speedy, what role do you foresee this watch playing?
I think so too!
Do you know anything about the movement? When I googled it it said Valjoux7750 different places, but not sure if that was this exact watch.
+1 to this advice.
Newcomer makes a good point. It does look like a valjoux which is a solid if not common chrono movement. If the rarity of the movement is something you desire then this wouldn't be for you. If you just want a dependable automatic chrono then it'll work great
In an ideal world i agree to save up for what you really want ie speedy pro. Otherwise you'll have 2 chronographs on straps. Albeit one will be white and one black. If you see yourself wearing both and you want to scratch that itch now then know you wouldn't be the first watch obsessed person to buy something now, to tide yourself for something bigger later on. If this watch makes you happy enough then go for it.
It's definitely no speedy though.
You just answered my last comment! Thanks!
Hmm, they certainly would have similarities, but this has a white/silver dial, whereas the speedy has a dark blue one. Depends on ones mood I guess!
I certainly do agree though, the Speedy would probably be my go-to watch, but I think it´s a bit expensive. I have no problems with used, but I´m not sure where it´s safe to buy from. Currently being in Japan, I reckon most second hand stores dealing in jewelry and watches are safe, but I´m not comfortable with most internet stores as I´m pretty clueless when it comes to watches. (The exception is recommendations I guess) Want to buy this while I´m in Japan, as the yen is really low now, and I´m moving back to Norway within a month.
A new Speedy would take me back around 3000$, and frankly, I don´t have that much to spend. Used in Japan would probably be the equivalent of ebay.
First off, just an aside--the speedy's dial is black, kind of a dark grey though in certain lights.
Being in Japan certainly complicates matters. I have bought and sold plenty of watches through Timezone. What watch do you have right now? Do you have any?
And I completely understand not having the money to spend. And there is nothing wrong with buying a watch to tide you over. I think it might be a good idea though to buy two watches that fit different spots in your collection. For example, if you buy the B&M, and then the Speedy, you have two sporty but sorta dressy chronographs. It might be better to buy a three hander with date, or something of that ilk, and then the Speed while you can. Just my 2c.
Also, in re the applied moonphases--I think what is most important is having a moonphase that has some depth to it. The Patek certainly has 'depth,' as does the Lange. My MUT Moon's moonphase is a bit flat, but I do love it all the same . Still, I prefer Lange's or Patek's, but then, that certainly goes with the territory!
For the sake of comparison...
I think $1200 for a Capeland Chrono is a solid deal. Nothing wrong with a 7750 movement at this pricepoint, IMO. If it were an $8k watch, I'd have a different opinion. (Aside - Valjoux 7750 = ETA 7750, as ETA swallowed Valjoux a looooong time ago.) As it happens, one of my buddies at the office has this exact BM and wears it on a medium brown croc - looks pretty darned nice.
The Speedy would be my preference, too, but it's more than double the price. Buy what you like within your budget.
does this count as multiple complications?
... sorry I was searching for a Glashutte and came across this monstrosity....
Egads! That makes me think of this beauty that Hamilton released recently.
Oh stop it, the pair of you.
Now everybody, breeeeeaaaaaathe.....
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