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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Allez Allez

    Allez Allez Senior member

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    Man, there is something about blued hands on a steel watch. Really nice.

    In deference to Apropos' sensibilities, I will refrain from suggesting that chicks probably dig this watch. [Hint -- It's a joke. :nodding: ]
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2013


  2. ahdaeeeee

    ahdaeeeee Well-Known Member

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    Glad I am on this forum, I'm learning by just reading through the posts that you guys made, thanks. Like you mentioned before, a watch is something valuable, I wouldn't want to purchase a watch knowing that a cheaper watch is using the same movements etc.

    By reading from what you posted, do you think it is actually better to purchase the Portuguese handwound rather than the chrono?
     


  3. nttdocomo

    nttdocomo Senior member

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    Thanks; I think I will be getting this later in the year :)
     


  4. jim_n

    jim_n Senior member

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    Hey guys, looking for a recommendation on a new watch. Something sleek and classy enough for a wedding (brothers this summer) but can still be worn daily and look good with a pair of jeans. My price range is around 800-1k. I would also consider shopping used to get the best bang for the buck. Thanks :)
     


  5. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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  6. sunilvarma

    sunilvarma Member

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    Montblanc Star World-Time GMT Automatic

    [​IMG]
     


  7. Hayward

    Hayward Senior member

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    This question is actually harder to answer than it might seem at first. If you buy new, In the US you're limited to department store type watches. Hamilton, Tissot, Mido, Oris, etc. All of these brands have some classic styles in their lines, But they will still have a generic appearance with stock movements. The US market Japanese made watches are even more boring.

    The Japanese makers, particularly Seiko and Orient Star, seem to reserve the more classic designs to their home market. There are dealers who will sell these models overseas, but When they need servicing, you'll need to send them back to Japan for best results. The good news is that they will cost significantly less than your target price.

    If I were in your position, I would look for vintage watches. A good example would be Omega watches from the 60s, Particularly in the Constellation and Seamaster sport lines. But then again for half again of what you're willing to spend, You could get a Rolex Datejust from the same period.
     


  8. marvin100

    marvin100 Senior member

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    Mafoofan, Dino, apropos, et al:

    Dropping tons of knowledge. Thanks for much to think about and ruminate on.
     


  9. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

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    I don't see what's wrong with an entry level watch as a first watch... many Ferrari drivers probably owned a Ford or a Toyota once upon a time.

    Also, agree about a vintage Omega - excellent suggestion and fairly easy to find, depending on where the OP lives.

    I would love to know where you can get a Datejust in working condition for less than $500 from any period. Most of the older oyster date watches I've seen have been $2k +
     


  10. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    I think he meant an extra $500 on top of the £1,000
     


  11. kungapa

    kungapa Senior member

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    Stowa comes in under that price range, but might be hard to source.
     


  12. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    As between those two watches, I'd certainly choose the handwound. But in the great wide world of $8-10k watches, I'd almost certainly make a different choice. The Portuguese (and from here on I refer to the handwound only) is a beautiful watch possessed of elegant design features. My issue is with its dimensions. Others will no doubt quickly enter a galssy-eyed trance and rhapsodize about the historical entecedents which inform the present day rendition. I'll happily leave that to them and simply make some comments about the watch itself, since it is the watch you would be purchasing.

    44mm is big for a dress watch, IMO. Really big. In a sports chroograph or a dive watch, a case that big is more than okay. But for me, a dress watch of those dimensions simply doesn't make sense. The substantial case diameter is visually exacerbated in the Portuguese by three factors: 1) short lugs, 2) thin case and 3) thin bezel. The end result is an "all dial" watch that looks even larger than its immodest dimensions suggest. It takes a hefty wrist indeed to wear the watch and not have it appear that the watch is wearing you. A pancake on a strap is a look that will work for some, but not for others.

    So if the goal is to get a Portuguese, the hand-wound is definitely the one to get, IMO. But if the goal is to get an elegant dress watch in that price range, there are many more appealing options out there. And yes, the foregoing reflects my personal and entirely subjective aesthetic preferences. Though I'm sure that will not deter the usual suspects from telling me that I am "wrong".
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know if Patek would ever spell it out, but I think the fundamental reason why they are migrating away from the Lemania ebauche has to do with the competitive edge that comes with deploying an in-house movement. Rightly or wrongly, collectors and enthusiasts attach a premium to whether a movement is in-house. Also, as in-house chronographs become more common at lower price points, an ebauche (no matter how fine and sophisticated) becomes a harder and harder sell.

    I hear some say that people don't really care about whether movements are in-house. But I think the market demonstrates otherwise. Companies tend to know what their customers want and high-end watchmakers have been significantly ramping up in-house development over the past ten years. Some of this has to do with the fact that ETA is no longer providing kit versions of their ebauches, forcing companies to buy already-assembled movements. But that only affects watches under the $5k price point (give or take). Patek sells its manual-wind chronograph (without other complications), employing the CH-29 in-house movement, for over $60k.


    It would certainly be my pick. At the end, it really depends on what you're looking for. If, despite everything you've learned, you still like the Port. Chrono better--go for it! But if you want a Portuguese, or if you care about having an interesting movement, or if you are aiming to collect classics, or if you care about future value, the Handwound is the better choice. Also, I think it looks infinitely better. The case and movement are nicely harmonized.

    In contrast, the rarely depicted side-view of the Port. Chrono:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2013


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    You are right that the Portuguese is very large for a dress watch. But for what it's worth, most models (including the Handwound and 5001) are 42mm, not 44mm. I also think the thin bezel, thin case, and short lugs are exactly what make a larger watch more elegant and wearable. You would otherwise have a much chunkier looking watch.

    I wear my 5001 daily, with suits and even my dinner jacket. I've never felt conspicuous about it. But then, I think when you love your watch, it somehow always feels appropriate. :)
     


  15. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Foo - Wristwatch Annual 2010 (the only volume I have with me at the office) lists the Portuguese handwound at 44mm, the 5001 at 42.3mm and the chrono at 40.9mm in diameter, respectively.

    I've tried on both the handwound and the 5001 as recently as two weeks ago and those listed dimension are in accordance with my perception of the watches on the wrist. The 5001 sits just at my personal upper limit for a dressy watch to be worn with a suit (42mm) and is better visually balanced to my eye by its thicker case (~13mm versus 10mm for the handwound). I could happily wear the 5001 with a suit, but the wider and thinner hand-wound had too much pancake effect to my eye.

    I agree that shorter lugs make a larger watch more wearable - less likelihood of lug overhang and such - but as with a thin bezel, they serve to visually emphasize width. That can be good or bad.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2013


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