The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[Keith T]

...and there's RogerP....piling on....

Kidding. That's a nice one.

I do like the strap.

 

[Dino944]

Quote:

I want to buy a tank watch, any suggestions? $10,000 budget.

If you can find someone that is willing to part with there Collection Privee Cartier Tank XL (although I am biased) thats a watch I would try to track down. Its an icon. There maybe be several Tank style watches, but its a signature piece from Cartier which they first introduced around 1917. They made 200 in rose and 50 in platinum. The base movement is a Piaget, finished to Cartier's own standards, and its rectangular (most companies stuff a smaller round movement in a rectangular case because its less expensive to use in the long run as it can be used in round pieces also). Whether someone would be willing to sell theirs to you for $10K...I don't know. The few others I know that own them, love them and aren't parting with them. Still no harm in looking/asking. There are some other variations on Tanks from Cartier that are also quite nice...and you may be able to get for less as there are many more of them out there like the Tank Americaine. The Tank Chinoise from Cartier is also a cool design, a tad smaller but very handsome...its a bit more square than rectangular. Here are a few photos of mine. Best regards, Dino P. S. Also if you're just looking for rectangular watch and not necessarily a Tank the JLC Reverso offers many great options.

 

[Coldcava]

I was killing time the other day (no pun intended) and walked into a local watch dealer/jeweler, and had a browse around the store. After looking at various and sundry watches, I ended up in the JLC section of the shop. While some of the Master's caught my eye.. I spent some time with the associate and then as we started talking about, and looking at the Reverso, all of the sudden, I had an epiphany.. I don't know how long ago (a few weeks?) that Apropos and others started chiming in with Reverso's and then threads with the enamel-work started propagating.. Didn't get it at the time.

Now I get it. And now I am thinking about it a lot. Seems like if you go with a Stainless model, it's not totally unthinkable to have the enamel-work could get up 70-80% of the cost of the base watch you are applying it to?..

So how does one start? I'm not sure what I'd want on the back, but love the artisanship and unique nature that this watch would have, and might be a good item to use as a goal/acheivement reward for myself..

What was the experience like, for anyone who went through the custom design process? I don't think I want something as basic as monogram, or single colored shield, or maps, that are on the JLC build it yourself site.. Come up with artwork and then submit, and they quote you a price? Do you have to have it photo ready? Do you proof it? Is it really around $5-7000 for the custom work?

What Reverso would you lean to? Kind of like the Grand Reverso Calendar? (I'm also a little ignorant as to which of the Reverso's don't allow customization - other than the duetto's)

Maybe I'm over my head here, but I love the whole art-deco - unique aspect of this..

 

[RogerP]

That Cartier is pure class. Every time I see someone wearing a giant wrist clock with a tailored business suit, I want to hit them with a picture like that.

 

[Dino944]



Maybe we need to form a support group for those of us lacking Speedys.

+ 1.

There are some great looking Speedys here on SF. It's definitely a watch that looks great on a bracelet or a strap.

That Cartier is pure class.  Every time I see someone wearing a giant wrist clock with a tailored business suit, I want to hit them with a picture like that.

Thanks Roger. It's one of my favorite watches. IMHO its a watch that shows how simplicity in design can be beautiful and relevant even nearly 100 years after it was introduced.

 

[ChicagoRon]

Was that Cartier made in 1917, or was it a later release of the line that originated in 1917? If so, it has been cared for incredibly well.

Also - why do watchmakers use IIII instead of IV for the four?

 

[Dino944]

Hi Ron,

It was released originally in 1917. Mine is from 2008, it its slightly larger than the original.

IMHO the IIII vs. IV is mainly about spacial relation and helps create a sense of balance.

 

[nttdocomo]

Thank you all for your nice comments about my choice of a speed master as a first watch. I absolutely love watches, but good ones cost a little more of course

I'll get a leather strap at some point; maybe a black first.

BTW, it has a nice display back

Does anyone else live in Asia, or Japan? I'm thinking leather straps in 40C heat and humidity might not be a great idea!

 

[RogerP]

Does anyone else live in Asia, or Japan? I'm thinking leather straps in 40C heat and humidity might not be a great idea!

I don't have to live in Asia or Japan to tell you that you are absolutely correct.

But you can get a very nice-looking rubber strap like this one below for an attractive but still functional change of pace:

http://www.thewatchboys.com/iwc-style-black-rubber-texture-kevlar-look-with-white-stitch-p-214.html

 

[Dino944]



Thank you all for your nice comments about my choice of a speed master as a first watch. I absolutely love watches, but good ones cost a little more of course

I'll get a leather strap at some point; maybe a black first.

BTW, it has a nice display back

Does anyone else live in Asia, or Japan? I'm thinking leather straps in 40C heat and humidity might not be a great idea!

Heat, humidity, and sweat cause straps to wear out prematurely. So wear the bracelet when its hot & humid and the strap when its a bit cooler and drier.

Or as Roger suggests go with a rubber strap. Maybe you can find something like Blancpain has done leather or croc outside but lined with rubber.

 

[apropos]



Now I get it. And now I am thinking about it a lot. Seems like if you go with a Stainless model, it's not totally unthinkable to have the enamel-work could get up 70-80% of the cost of the base watch you are applying it to?..

The enamel work on the SS Reversos is not "enamel", it's an epoxy resin (not unlike wood filler, but nicer). That is why it's "baked" at 80C, it's actually cured at that temperature.

While I agree that beautiful work can come out of that process, I am undecided as to whether adorning a watch with coloured plastic is the "best" way to go about customising one's watch. And the cost is just exorbitant for something akin to fancy nail polish - starts at $1-1.5k, and goes up up up depending on complexity. Most prep for the epoxy is machine done as well - you're not getting a fully hand engraved design.

Only gold Reversos can have fired/vitreous/grand feu enamel applied, and JLC will only do it for new gold Reversos - i.e. you have to place the enameling order at the time of purchasing your gold Reverso.

What was the experience like, for anyone who went through the custom design process? I don't think I want something as basic as monogram, or single colored shield, or maps, that are on the JLC build it yourself site.. Come up with artwork and then submit, and they quote you a price? Do you have to have it photo ready? Do you proof it? Is it really around $5-7000 for the custom work?

IME...

Monograms are easy - all JLC boutiques (not multibrand ADs) have font samples. There are 5 or 6 "standard" fonts that JLC offers for monograms, and you can preview them here - http://personalisation.jaeger-lecoultre.com/#/personnalisation?model=2788570&step=3

It's as simple as 1. choosing your Reverso, 2. choosing the font, 3. choosing the layout (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, etc) and 3. placing your order. Engraving a SS Reverso with your initials using the JLC "standard" fonts should cost you less than $1000. Fonts can be further customised with coloured epoxy resin for an additional cost.

If there are engravers in your area, check them out if you are considering something simple as IMO they will offer exactly the same service for a LOT less. JLC also actually subcontracts out simpler engravings to local artists to do, as opposed to all the way to JLC HQ in Le Sentier, then charges a middleman markup. For example, in Singapore all "standard" or "simpler" monograms are sent to Hong Kong to be done.

If you want any other non-standard font for your monogram or a flower, zodiac sign or some other non-text design engraved, JLC charges as though it is a "custom order" which means a higher price bracket. You have to provide a sample, and then wait 6-8 weeks for a quote. In the USA they sometimes refer you straight on to JC Randell (more on him later). If done through JLC, simple monogram engraving will take up to 4-6 months, custom engraving up to 12-18 months.

Enameling a gold Reverso starts at $10+k and escalates very very very quickly. Most are along the line of $20-35k, and the sky is the limit. Most people who ask for such enameling have a period of negotiation with Le Sentier as to what they want and what is actually feasible, and the to/fro takes months to complete. I am pretty sure you also get to review an actual paper draft or rendering of the enamel work before you give the final go ahead.

There is another option for custom engraving-only orders - there are a few Master engravers scattered around the world who will do the same (or better) for less. In the USA the 3d party JLC engraver to go to is JC Randell, who is a 4 hour drive away from you in Washington. IMO the custom Le Sentier engravings are nice, but not as fine as JC Randell's work - by fineness I mean complexity of engraved detail. The deeper the engraving cuts, the less fine the work can be - a JC Randell engraving feels like a freshly minted bank note, a JLC engraving feels like the surface of a vinyl record.

What Reverso would you lean to? Kind of like the Grand Reverso Calendar? (I'm also a little ignorant as to which of the Reverso's don't allow customization - other than the duetto's)

All Reversos with solid casebacks (and the one with the small circular 8 day power reserve window) can be engraved. This is something only you, your taste, and your budget can decide.

Does anyone else live in Asia, or Japan? I'm thinking leather straps in 40C heat and humidity might not be a great idea!

Yep, there are special leather straps which are sweat resistant but none of them have performed well for me. I usually use a Perlon (woven nylon) strap, and IMO that would suit the Speedmaster.

This is a Perlon strap:

Rubber straps just feel sticky to me, but YMMV.

BTW temperatures in most of SE Asia rarely reach 40C, but it often feels much much much worse due to the humidity!!

Thanks Roger. It's one of my favorite watches. IMHO its a watch that shows how simplicity in design can be beautiful and relevant even nearly 100 years after it was introduced.

It's an absolutely fantastic watch, and one that I would be more than proud to own.

If I were to get a Tank, it would have to be the ref. W1551551 - I think it is the platinum version of your tank, if yours is the 30x39mm one.

 

[rnguy001]

Beautiful movement.

Thank you all for your nice comments about my choice of a speed master as a first watch. I absolutely love watches, but good ones cost a little more of course I'll get a leather strap at some point; maybe a black first. BTW, it has a nice display back

Does anyone else live in Asia, or Japan? I'm thinking leather straps in 40C heat and humidity might not be a great idea!

I think you'll live

I don't have a speedy either. Had to wear this today too.

Lookin' good, brother.

New shoes for the Speedy 9300. Worn on the bracelet since day one, I decided to try it out on a strap. I dug through the strap drawer and found a nice Camille Fournet in semi-glosse black gator, but thought it looked a touch too formal on this sporty watch. So I tried this matte medium brown TWB croc instead:

That is one handsome, handsome watch.

Quote: If you can find someone that is willing to part with there Collection Privee Cartier Tank XL (although I am biased) thats a watch I would try to track down. Its an icon. There maybe be several Tank style watches, but its a signature piece from Cartier which they first introduced around 1917. They made 200 in rose and 50 in platinum. The base movement is a Piaget, finished to Cartier's own standards, and its rectangular (most companies stuff a smaller round movement in a rectangular case because its less expensive to use in the long run as it can be used in round pieces also). Whether someone would be willing to sell theirs to you for $10K...I don't know. The few others I know that own them, love them and aren't parting with them. Still no harm in looking/asking. There are some other variations on Tanks from Cartier that are also quite nice...and you may be able to get for less as there are many more of them out there like the Tank Americaine. The Tank Chinoise from Cartier is also a cool design, a tad smaller but very handsome...its a bit more square than rectangular. Here are a few photos of mine. Best regards, Dino P. S. Also if you're just looking for rectangular watch and not necessarily a Tank the JLC Reverso offers many great options.

 

[Dino944]

That is one handsome, handsome watch.

Thanks rnguy.

The enamel work on the SS Reversos is not "enamel", it's an epoxy resin (not unlike wood filler, but nicer). That is why it's "baked" at 80C, it's actually cured at that temperature.

While I agree that beautiful work can come out of that process, I am undecided as to whether adorning a watch with coloured plastic is the "best" way to go about customising one's watch. And the cost is just exorbitant for something akin to fancy nail polish - starts at $1-1.5k, and goes up up up depending on complexity. Most prep for the epoxy is machine done as well - you're not getting a fully hand engraved design.

Only gold Reversos can have fired/vitreous/grand feu enamel applied, and JLC will only do it for new gold Reversos - i.e. you have to place the enameling order at the time of purchasing your gold Reverso.


IME...

Monograms are easy - all JLC boutiques (not multibrand ADs) have font samples. There are 5 or 6 "standard" fonts that JLC offers for monograms, and you can preview them here - http://personalisation.jaeger-lecoultre.com/#/personnalisation?model=2788570&step=3

It's as simple as 1. choosing your Reverso, 2. choosing the font, 3. choosing the layout (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, etc) and 3. placing your order. Engraving a SS Reverso with your initials using the JLC "standard" fonts should cost you less than $1000. Fonts can be further customised with coloured epoxy resin for an additional cost.

If there are engravers in your area, check them out if you are considering something simple as IMO they will offer exactly the same service for a LOT less. JLC also actually subcontracts out simpler engravings to local artists to do, as opposed to all the way to JLC HQ in Le Sentier, then charges a middleman markup. For example, in Singapore all "standard" or "simpler" monograms are sent to Hong Kong to be done.

If you want any other non-standard font for your monogram or a flower, zodiac sign or some other non-text design engraved, JLC charges as though it is a "custom order" which means a higher price bracket. You have to provide a sample, and then wait 6-8 weeks for a quote. In the USA they sometimes refer you straight on to JC Randell (more on him later). If done through JLC, simple monogram engraving will take up to 4-6 months, custom engraving up to 12-18 months.

Enameling a gold Reverso starts at $10+k and escalates very very very quickly. Most are along the line of $20-35k, and the sky is the limit. Most people who ask for such enameling have a period of negotiation with Le Sentier as to what they want and what is actually feasible, and the to/fro takes months to complete. I am pretty sure you also get to review an actual paper draft or rendering of the enamel work before you give the final go ahead.

There is another option for custom engraving-only orders - there are a few Master engravers scattered around the world who will do the same (or better) for less. In the USA the 3d party JLC engraver to go to is JC Randell, who is a 4 hour drive away from you in Washington. IMO the custom Le Sentier engravings are nice, but not as fine as JC Randell's work - by fineness I mean complexity of engraved detail. The deeper the engraving cuts, the less fine the work can be - a JC Randell engraving feels like a freshly minted bank note, a JLC engraving feels like the surface of a vinyl record.
All Reversos with solid casebacks (and the one with the small circular 8 day power reserve window) can be engraved. This is something only you, your taste, and your budget can decide.




It's an absolutely fantastic watch, and one that I would be more than proud to own.

If I were to get a Tank, it would have to be the ref. W1551551 - I think it is the platinum version of your tank, if yours is the 30x39mm one.

Hi Apropos, excellent information about customizing a JLC. Although, I'm not a "Reverso e-buddy" yet, I hope to be at some point.

I have looked at JC Randell's site a few times just to get an idea of what can be done with a Reverso. I was unaware that the "Enamel/ coloring" of a SS Reverso is basically plastic. Also, I had no idea what the starting cost was to have an enamel piece although I knew the prices skyrocket depending on the complexity of the request.

Also, interesting to note that you find the JC Randell engraving to be of higher quality than a custom Le Sentier engraving. I know a guy that has a US 1931 Tribute and he is planning to send it to Le Sentier for engraving (as he is saying why send it to a 3rd party). However, Randell has a reputation that would seem difficult to match, much less surpass. You can really see a lot of depth and workmanship from the samples on his site, while I can't say I've seen many samples from JLC and the few I saw were not very complex.

Yes, W1551551 is the platinum version of my Tank. I saw the platinum and the rose gold side by side in a Cartier boutique when they first were released. The platinum version was beautiful and it really takes on a very different character. It was very cool and sleek, yet elegant in a white metal, while the rose added some warmth. In the end, for me in terms of color, cost, and availability, the rose was the right choice...and actually was the only choice at that point. The one I purchased was the last new version available in North America (my nearest boutique had sold their example almost a year before I decided to get one, and showed me on their computer only 1 unsold example existed, which they eventually had transferred in for me to view).

I tend to choose non-round rose gold cases for dress watches as most of my daily wearers are round and white metal, so I like something completely different. After wearing round cased white metal watches much of the week, putting on something in rose gold feels a little dressier to me...kind of like switching from casual shoes to fine dress shoes. I think the only non-round white metal watch I've looked at and tried on is the Reverso. Some of their examples have looked good in rose or yellow, but for some reason its a design I often find much more appealing in a white metal.

 

[Coldcava]

Apropos - Thanks so much for the detail.. I am always amazed at the knowledge base on Style-forum, and your response is in the upper echelon..

So, with the preface that a gold Reverso with another $20k of custom enameling is out of my price range, and the coloring on the stainless steel models doesn't measure up, you're preference with a stainless model is to stick to engraving and then depending on the level of detail/customization, look at JC Randell as an alternative to JLC's process. Sounds like if its non standard and engraved with JLC not only pricing but time frame is issue to consider, (not that I'm rushing into this)..

Again, great info. Thank you..

 

[Coldcava]

I know that there are some hard-core people on here with very specific definitions in regards to this next question..

JLC Reverso - 'Dress' watch?? (yay or nay?)