The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Flake

    Flake Senior member

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    Tough. Better symmetry to my eye in the hour markings on the MUT. But, the subdial proportions seem more harmonious on the 37mm to me.
     


  2. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    I like the 39 mm size better, but for some reason I prefer the dial layout/spacing on the 37 mm model. Both great choices though, no wrong answer here.
     


  3. DLJr

    DLJr TWAT Master.

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    And I'm the exact opposite haha. I prefer the 37mm size, but prefer the layout and spacing on the MUT.

    May I suggest eeny, meeny, miny, moe...
     


  4. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Well certainly you knew I would be responding to this message.

    I love the RDM, certainly one of my favorite JLC designs. It was only edged out a little bit by the MUT Moon, and although I am incredibly happy I made the decision I did, this one still pulls at the heartstrings! I agree that it works, and it has a beautiful sense of harmony through asymmetry. One of the best designed watches by JLC.

    So, here are the pros and cons that I can think of for the respective models:

    Master Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche:

    Pros

    • Ultra Thin Case: without a doubt, this case is the bomb dot com. If there is one aspect of my MUT Moon that draws me in, it is the case. It reflects light at all angles, and really just looks spectacular. It definitely dresses up the watch though!
    • Clasp: I cannot say this with 100% conviction, but I am pretty sure that JLC is using a new clasp on these. It feels better machined than the old clasps. The clasp on my MUT Moon is much nicer than the clasp on my former MC.
    • Strap: you get the new straps, which I perceive to be better quality.
    • Symmetric dial: in my opinion, the dial is more agreeable generally than the previous version.
    • Size: I prefer the size of this version--it is thinner, with a thinner looking case (its multi-faceted case makes it look thinner), and a perfect size at 39mm.

    Cons

    • Lacks quirkiness: one of my draws to the former model is the quirkiness of the numerals. This also draws people away though, so I guess it depends.
    • Painted hands: 'nuff said; although I do like the color of blue.
    • Crown: just wanted to throw this out there--the crown is kind of small on the new model. It is better machined, and looks to be higher quality, but it is a bit tricky to set the time if you have fat fingers. It is VERY sturdy though. That is just something I would suggest trying out! Aesthetically I prefer the new crown, both size and looks, but it is a bit small to use comfortably in my opinion.

    Master Control Reserve de Marche

    Pros

    • Quirky: it attains wonderful symmetry through quirkiness. Not many watches have accomplished this feat. I think the dial on the original is one of the most perfectly designed dials ever.
    • Blued hands: or at least I think they are blued.
    • Availability: no longer in production, so this model will soon be unavailable. May have collector appeal further down the road?

    Cons

    • Case: the old case is not NEARLY as refined. Can look a bit slab sided.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2013


  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I don't travel much. However, when I travel I really like being able to tell local and home time at a glance. I have the GMT's sibling, the old 16570 Explorer 2.

    I like asymetric dials. While I am generally not a fan of taking an existing movement and putting it in a larger case, there are several elements of the 39 that would have me leaning toward it.

    For intstance, I prefer the hands on the 39mm watch. In addtion, while having the 9 and 12 is a bit different, I have never really been a huge fan of the font used of Arabic numerals used on the Master series. Therefore, I prefer not having any Arabics used on the dial. I also find it a bit less cluttered without the 9, 12, and the word automatique. My only issue with the 39 is I wish it had a larger winding crown. Those are very small issues. Either is a great choice, so it simply comes down to personal preference. Looking forward to seeing which you eventually choose.
     


  6. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    apropos, i like the 39mm better. the proportions seem to look better to me. (and no lume, lol). both look great tho.
     


  7. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    I'm all for typographic pickiness, but those Arabics are one of my favourite features of that series of JLC, as well as the very similar ones on this old Enicar:

    [​IMG]
     


  8. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

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    So - need to :deadhorse: for a sec, but since you posted these Apropos = I am still really in a quandary over the Master Geo vs. the FC Manufacture World Time.

    I notice you didn't throw the Master Geo into that mix - do you think the city window wrecks the symmetry?

    The FC wins on price (obv.) and full world-time capability. But it's really thick, and I'm concerned about the durability of a movement with 3 pin stops and all that complication controlled from a single crown. Should I be? Since both are in-house movements with serious complication, I've resigned myself that even routine service will need to go to the manufacturer (that's the mistake I made years ago with my oris that killed the quickset date). But is the FC going to be more delicate?

    I'm going to go try both on again during lunch today. I could walk with the FC this afternoon, but the Master Geo won't arrive in Stainless for a few weeks. Still, worth waiting for if it's the direction I decide to go.
     


  9. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    haven't worn this in a while, but with all the talk of dress watches, blued hands, and JLC I figured why not? [​IMG]
     


  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    great looking watch.
     


  11. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    ^ You forgot... lume!! ;) Thanks guys for the feedback re: the M RdM vs the MUT RdM... basically it didn't help a jot with my decision making process. :embar: :p While I'm rambling on about watches with quirky asymmetric designs that shouldn't work but somehow do, and violating my personal rule about power reserves on automatics... I am very fond of this, but only with the enamel dial. This looks much better IRL. Breguet 7787: [​IMG] And another quirky design that speaks to me - for which we will have a marked change in gears gentlemen - this thoroughly modern moonphase from Ochs & Junior: [​IMG] You can order the sun/dial/moon/hands/indicator cutout colours in any Pantone colour. Yes, infinite possibilities here.
    I'm sorry, but the the Geographic dial just doesn't work for me. The FC World Time doesn't really either. Most world timers just don't do it for me, as the dial becomes too cluttered in most designs (yes, even the pretty Patek cloisonne one), and at best even with perfect implementation of the cutout window concept if your case size is kept sane the city names are basically illegible to anyone above the age of 50. If you realise you don't really need a world timer, have you seen the JLC Home Time? Also this is really more for trivia's sake but the MUT Geographic and Home Time have painted blued hands. The MUT RdM actually has heated blue hands. You can tell them apart by 1. the lighter colour on the painted hands, and 2. the central parts that connect to the stems are always left uncoloured in the painted hands. Finally - since I mentioned the company earlier, Ochs & Junior also has a 2 time zone watch, named rather appropriately "two time zones". Now how's that for a watch name that tells you everything you need to know! [​IMG] Completely customisable colours for that watch too.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2013


  12. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    Ochs and Junior has some pretty damn fascinating watches and their tech is really cool too.

    Love the Breguet.
     


  13. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    I know, right??!

    I love their recent revamp - every model is now offered in both 39 and 42 mm sizes now, which makes me really happy.

    Their new website is also an absolute pleasure to browse, unlike say, the Vacheron Constantin website.
     


  14. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    I'm no genius but seeing as how they came up with their Moonphase blows my mind. I love how though they're using 'fewer' parts, and a simpler design,yet it's clear their science and technical knowledge is just incredible.

    Don't get me wrong. I love how watchmaking in general is taking it to new levels with the incorporation of new materials, sciences and grows ever complex. But Ochs and Junior is a great counterpoint that also advances horology as a whole, while making a simple idea (like telling time) still magical.

    Though I will probably never own one, I'm a big fan of what they're doing..

    They look great too IMO.
     


  15. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Love the Breguet, but I'm not sure if I would feel something was missing if I didn't get one of their watches with a guilloche dial (although I must admit, some of their more recent guilloche work hasn't appealed to me). Still its sort of a key element I think of when I hear the name Breguet.

    As for the Ochs & Junior I can't decide if I find it very modern, or if it reminds me more of a dial designed by someone in elementary school. Interesting watch, probably just not my taste.
     


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