Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.
i hear ya.
also, apparently, that is why my wife married me.
I have a Blancpain with a black dial and gold hands that's actually somewhat difficult to read in low light, although quite striking in good light. It had lume sort of hidden in the tips of the hands (not really hidden but very subtle). Interestingly, it's easiest to read in the dark, thanks to the lume.
Breguet has been getting a lot of wrist time lately.
Quote:Hehehehe. Same here!
Quote:Good luck! Yeah, it is not very often you're at a shop and the guy can say "oh yeah, let me get that 5004 for you." Then take it out of its box, put it on your wrist, etc. Probably should have asked to see the 1518 or a 3974 too.
Thanks! The signature monogram is not nearly as obnoxious in person as it appears in the pic, BTW. I just noticed it an thought OMG that looks obnoxious in that shot!
Yes and no, the traditional material for high-grade watches in the vintage era prior to the 70s was solid silver, for less expensive watches it was brass. I notice that now most watches from the big 3 use brass dials and call them "silvered". You are right that enamelled dials are done on gold, but I've never heard of copper.
Parmigiani used to use only gold dials exclusively, but I've noticed that even they have dropped this of late.
My mistake, I meant painted and not plated. Cognitive error!
Well there is no inherent superiority of silver over brass dials, nor solid gold hands/batons over plated, but when you pay 5 digits these are little luxuries you should receive. Otherwise the brands are fleecing you by using the same materials as in low-end brands.
Riveted batons can be found in some inexpensive brands, even around the under-500 dollar mark. I would be grossly disappointed to see glued batons on any watch with a 4 or 5 digit price tag, but I wouldnt be surprised with all the cost cutting going on and the equivalent rise in production volume. Witness JLC's dip in quality control over the last 5 years.
I had no idea the JLC Masters use painted hands. That is truly inexcusable, considering you can get heat blued hands on a Stowa going for 10% the JLC
i like the monogram.
Hi sorry for the delay. I am waiting for some incoming information in order to answer your questions fully.
Will reply to your PM tomorrow HK time.
I think only the MUT RDM has painted hands, among a couple others. The MUT Moon, Master Control, both have heat blued center hands. And I don't know so much about JLC's dip in QC? From every JLC I have seen, they have had darn near perfect quality control. But I guess I have seen a fairly small sample size!
For the RDM, Jerome Lambert in a interview with TPP said that it was because on some models they prefer to have a color of blue that cannot be reproduced by blueing. A lighter blue. I am going to be honest... I kind of buy it. Call it naivete, but I see the merits of using lighter blue. And although JLC is a business, I really think that the price of blueing hands is probably negligible for such a manufacture. I just don't buy the whole cost-saving argument. An individual watch-maker? Yes, that would be a cost-saving measure. But a completely vertically integrated manufacture that creates an innumerable amount of blued hands, screws, etc. per day? Probably not.
Here is the relevant quote:
Question: Some have complained about the fact that, on some of your new models, the hands are painted blue instead of being heated blue. Why such a solution which is seen as a downgrade?
Answer: We use any solution that copes with watch requirements which means that there has to be some tradeoffs. For hands, some treatments or color preferences cannot be accomplished by heating the hands, so it must be done another way. Or we want to have some other hands to be luminescent, so again you have many other solutions. For example if you take a look at the moon, most of the industry is now using a flat moon. Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the rare brands to still have shaped moons. All the other brands’ moons are flat and even one brand name which I will not quote, but they are considered one of the most relevant ones in the market in terms of fine watchmaking. At Jaeger-LeCoultre we still make the effort - I can tell you it can cost a fortune and much time to be able to do this. It even goes through to decoration. In the movement 899, you will see the quality of the decoration of the movement.
And here is some more information regarding it:
^^ sounds totally legit to me. i knew they had to have a reason. i read an article about bluing steel in, WT i think, a while back. it is neither simple nor inexpensive. JLC, iirc, is one of the few companies that blues their own hands and screws. glad to see the given reason for the dipping.
Egad - heated blue hands AND lume!
lol, again, the lume is white, so its much less bothersome to me. and blue hands are awesome, i think everyone agrees to that. it was just a question of blueing them with heat (the generally preferred option of quality finishers) or paint.
Wearing my ever-reliable GMT watch today (the most accurate of all my watches).
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