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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

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    Snapped a pic of my second stellar piece....I have neither the budget nor the inclination to own any more. Between the JLC Master Calendar and the Flieger I think they cover a lot of ground pretty well.


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    ^^^ One solid dress watch and sports watch is all anyone needs and more than most have.
     
  3. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

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    This is a beautiful watch, but for some reason the fact that the minute hand comes to a point and the hour hand has a blunt end bugs me... is there a functional reason they did that?
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2013
  4. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    The squared-off hour hand was a signature feature of IWCs flieger watches for a long time. I'm sorry they abandoned it - I always liked it. It made them instantly recognizable in a sea of black dial pilot watches.
     
  5. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    Beauty. Congrats and please don't ever let this classic go.
    Amen
    I know it's boring, but still wearing this one. FRILLS - a little something in the background for you ;) [​IMG]
     
  6. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    My Mark XV with those same hands is my easiest watch to read at a glance (ironically much easier than a 6mm larger PAM).

    Also, that generation IWC Flieger chrono is together with a plexi Speedy probably my two favourite chronographs.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2013
  7. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    A great duo you have there! I think that is more than enough to take you any where you need to be. I love the older IWC fliegers as well.


    You know, I find myself being more and more drawn to this kind of thinking. I am very content with my Speedmaster and MUT Moon. Which is why I think that my next piece will be a good while away. However, it will be a bit more Frillsy :).
     
  8. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    For what it's worth, my wrist — which is proportional to my height, not my girth — is generally 7 3/4" around, and I'm fine with wearing a sub-37mm watch when it suits. I feel far more comfortable erring toward more compact than too bulky for watches. In fact, one of the very rare occasions that I've received a comment about a watch was when I was wearing a simple 35mm manual-wind from the '60s, and the words were, "it's nice to see someone your age wearing a normal-sized watch for a change." It was rather encouraging to hear, considering it was coming from my boss' boss.

    The squared-off hour hand certainly was a recognizable feature, but it wasn't IWC's signature, it was the British Ministry of Defence's.

    IWC certainly wasn't the only company to make pilot's watches to the rather specific MoD 6B/346 specification:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    photos from markeleven.com

    IWC's Mark __ series became somewhat conflicted in design following the Mark XV. Later watches retained the British MoD case and naming convention, but changed to the fashionable German B-Uhr-style dial and hands popularized by the Big Pilot — thus creating a bit of a clash for those that appreciate pilot's-watch history. Sadly, coherent design doesn't seem to have been much of a priority since Richemont bought them out, but I doubt they suffer many sleepless nights over it.

    Don't forget that this is the same company that simultaneously produced "Mercedes-AMG" and "Climate Change Action" editions of the same watch. I'm beginning to suspect that they do this stuff on purpose as some sort of in-joke.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2013
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  9. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Senior member

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    Hey guys, long time no talk. I've been getting the AP itch again and I think I really want one of these. Model 15400ST.OO.1220ST.02. Anyone have a feel for what kind of discount might be available? I think it retails for $16.9.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    i have seen a number of them in person, you should endeavor to do so as well. it is well worth it. trust. thanks, man! :embar: being in the industry does have its perks. oddly enough, the JLC has the highest MSRP of all my watches, and it cost me less than my others, and i got it BNIB from an AD with my name on the papers and everything, while the others i bought in the secondary market. the ToG and the PAM were the exact same price. to the penny. i just realized that the other day.
    great pic.
    no sure on what discounts are available off hand, but you can get it from prestige time for 20% off retail. that being the case, you could probably find B&M places that would go to 15% back. whatever the price, its a great looking AP.
     
  11. djh

    djh Senior member

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    I was offered the same watch for $14 with 12 months 0% interest financing recently. That was the first number they threw out; I've seen them for mid-13's new and in the 11's used.
     
  12. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I don't think your photos angered anyone. However, I thought your comment that "Your job here is done, so we can go back to talking about Submariners"...seemed a bit condescending and snobby.

    The name's Francis Sawyer, but everybody calls me Psycho. Any of you guys call me Francis...an I'll kill Ya! Great movie reference Scott.
    There are often trade off that go with newer versions of watches, that sort of "Correct" perceived flaws...however, what some owners or designers see as flaws other's perceive as adding character or an endearing quirkiness. The Datograph has a beautiful movement, but I've never really loved the overall watch. A friend had one for a few years. He eventually sold it (not sure why), but he doesn't miss it at all. He has since focused more on VCs and Independents.
    Love it. I prefer the 3706 to the revised versions.
    Me too! I really prefer the squared off hand to the pointy hands on the modern versions.
    I know there have been numerous debates large watches vs. small, and also discussions relative to a person's build so I don't want to rehash that. However, I agree with your boss that its nice seeing people wearing normal sized watches. For me the sweet spot for watches seems to be between 36 and 40mm (+/- depending on the watch).

    Thanks for the info on the origins of the squared hand design. I agree with your comments on IWC post Richemont. Its sort of sad, as I used to want an IWC for my collection at one point. However, none of their current offerings really speak to me enough that I'd pull the trigger. For IWC fan's I'm not saying they don't make anything nice...just their older designs were more appealing to me. Hence if I decided to get an IWC, I would probably try to find a vintage piece that called to me.
     
  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Sounds about right to me. If possible, I'd go for a new one with a full warranty. Repairs/service is expensive on these pieces, so savings can quickly be lost if a watch has been mistreated or something goes wrong.
    I think he could get 20% off at B&M places if he shops around. Its a nice watch, but not one of their really tough models to locate or obtain (other than the purchase price [​IMG]) I'd go through an AD, and want a full warranty, without any questions about it. I know a guy that bought a RO Chronograph through a gray dealer, saved about $1,000 more over his AD's best price. However, he had problems with the watch and then b/c not purchased through an AD, AP would NOT honor his warranty even though it was a new watch. By the time he was done with servicing/repairs it was beyond any savings he got through his gray. I believe he said the repairs/service was about 1,800 so he would have saved money had he purchased through an AD and had a warranty that AP would honor. In addition to the 2 year warranty, if your register your watch with AP and you bring it in for (what I believe is a free service/inspection) before the 2nd year warranty ends they will extend your warranty by an additional year.
     
  14. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Senior member

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    Thanks to all for the helpful replies. I think you've convinced me to go the AD route. We only have one in Houston and I have not dealt with them before, but now that I have a baseline for what's doable I may venture in. I guess if they're not competitive I can start making some phone calls. Thanks again!
     
  15. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    I saw that post from TPP. That's a 5004 in stainless steel: a perpetual calendar split seconds chrono powered by the CH 27-70, a Patek-modified Lemania based-movement. Limited to just a few pieces, so it regularly trades - if you can even find one - in excess of a quarter of a million dollars or so.

    Pluses:

    1. The split seconds chrono complication is supposedly one of the most challenging complications to execute; I don't have one in my stable, but I don't feel a deep yearning for one at this point (wallet thanks me profusely).

    2. I do like the baton markers for this version of the 5004's dial. Most 5004s come with Arabic numerals like this:

    [​IMG]

    Which for whatever reason works for the 5070 but doesn't quite work for the 5004, at least for me.

    On the con's side:

    1. Mentioned the crazy pricing already. The TPP post noted that the 5004 isn't simply a 3970 on steroids, but aesthetically the 3970 (for me) matches the 5004 point by point (and exceeds it, in my eyes, if the 5004 dial came with the Arabic numerals above):

    [​IMG]\

    2. The 5004A is in stainless steel - and it's priced at $200 to $250K or more if you can even obtain one (Patek manufactured it in such limited quantities and actually engraved the owner/buyer's name for many of them). That's a six figure or so premium versus a 3970 in platinum.

    I get that the split seconds chrono complication has its merits, but versus the 3970 in platinum, I just can't get over the six figure premium to obtain a 5004... in stainless steel.
     
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  16. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    Because TWAT loves a good story to accompany pics (of a watch that doesn't cost 6 figures)…

    I had never been a Tag Heuer fan, mostly because of memories of all the fugly Link watches I saw in the 90s. However, I've recently been drawn to vintage (pre-Tag) Heuer dive watches, spending many hours looking at their old divers online. One blog led to another, and before I knew it I wasn’t looking at a diver anymore, but a chrono. More specifically the CS3110, a re-edition of the 1964 Carrera 2447D*:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here's one for dopey; the movement should look familiar...
    [​IMG]

    The pics above, along with some good info and specs of the watch can be found here:
    http://www.calibre11.com/heuer-carrera-1964-re-edition/
    http://www.chronomaddox.com/heuer/articles/carrera_article/_carrera_pt5.html#The_1990's
    http://www.onthedash.com/docs/CompareCarreras.shtml

    Everything about it is awesome and I think the dial/subdials layout looks as well balanced as the more frequently discussed Speedmaster Pro and Daytona.

    Of course, it could have ended there, with me just adding the above links to my Favorites and looking at pics of the CS3110 from time to time, but a casual comment to a good e-buddy great e-uncle (or 'some shady guy I met on the interwebz', as he refers to himself) changed all that…

    It just so happens that he has a minty one tucked away, purchased new in 2000 and worn only a handful of times since. A sort of outcast among his awesome collection of IWC, Rolex and Panerai pieces. The case is a bit small for his liking, something that would actually suit me fine.

    An amazing offer was made if I wanted to purchase the watch. Still, there was some hesitation on my part because I had already been considering ridding him of another one of his not oft-worn watches (hopefully, that'll be the subject of another TWAT post in the future). In the end, the Heuer won and I'll be picking it up next week.

    Finally, this is something I wasn't aware of, but thought could be of interest to others: http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/someth...important-watches-the-carrera-and-the-Daytona

    *As the name implies, the Carrera re-edition was a faithful reproduction of the original 1964 Carrera (at the time, TAG Heuer believed that the Carrera had been launched in 1964 not 1963- it was only recently after earlier materials were found in the archives that the date was confirmed as ’63).
    http://www.calibre11.com/tag-heuer-carrera-series-overview/
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2013
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  17. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Good luck, TC. We look forward to seeing it when you buy it. :)
     
  18. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    wow....TC needs to get out of my head. I havent checked the thread in ages and came in to post a question about a couple APs im looking at....Any thoughts on the 15300st vs the 15400st? I cant decide on the size...the 15300 is 39mm and the 15400 is 41mm. I really wish they had something in between at 40mm. Anyone have experience trying on both? I recently cleared out a lot of my watches and want to fund one special piece.
     
  19. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    Wes Bourne - congrats on that very cool looking Heuer!

    post pics when you get it..
     
  20. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    That Tag is nice looking. The word that actually came to mine when looking at it was "refreshing". The blue on silver dial is a nice touch.

    Disclaimer: Most of the stuff I own is blue. Wardrobe is mostly blue, new watch is blue, pen color choice is blue, car is surprisingly graphite but doesn't come in blue.
     
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