The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not really a WIS, so details are sketchy. As I understand it, they have a lot of movements from the 60s that they re-work and put into their current designs. For my own purposes, the only things I really know are that it is manual, and there are no added frills beyond a second hand.
     
  2. easy_golfing

    easy_golfing Senior member

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    Their watches are awesome, but sadly, it seems they make many of models available only in gold.

    I have a e-brochure I requested a few months back. Doesn't have too much on movements, but covers their models pretty well. More than willing to share if you'd like...
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Do people tend to prefer horn back straps? Or the belly area? Is either cut preferable to the other?

    After a 7-month long wait --

    For a Breguet 5317 PT and IWC Perpetual calendar.

    Tan horn back with red goat lining, glove stitch. Single hole for deployment clasp. I was expecting a darker tan. But, well ... after 7 months, you can't recall what you want.

    I'm expecting a green beaver tail with purple lining (one on right). Will be sent to me. My GF gave me no end to misery when she found out I was getting a beaver tail strap.

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  4. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Conventionally:

    - belly is preferable to side, which is far far far and away preferable to hornback
    - large scales (sometimes described as "bamboo") are preferred for dress watches
    - croc is preferable to alligator, but the vast majority of large reptile straps are alligator
    - amongst croc subspecies, porosus is preferable to niloticus for handbags or large leather accessories, but I've not known any preference for watch straps

    Given you've already purchased the straps, do not open the spoiler if you do not want to know my opinion of hornback watch straps....

    IMO hornback is ugly, and reminds me in a very bad way of cheap souvenirs from Thailand. Hornback is the cheapest part of the reptile to source - compared to, say, large unmarked belly scales - and I would not pay any premium for it. I cannot imagine the hornback/Breguet combination being more successful than a belly scale one, but horses for courses I guess. Then again I guess since you bought a 44mm Perpetual Calendar what is "conventional" doesn't really apply anyhow!! :devil:
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  5. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    My perpetual calender is actually 39mm. Not the recent one, that I don't fancy. The recent one is not merely too large, but also, IMHO, ugly.

    Hornback is generally cheaper than belly? That's very interesting. I was always under the impression that it was the opposite way, though the reason why I purchased the hornback is because I've far too many belly straps. I find it very common, and wanted something different.

    I am aware that the hornback in the pictures look cheap and I'm very anxious as well -- I haven't seen them yet. My GF forwarded the pictures to me.

    Pls pardon these old photos below. I'm too lazy to take new pictures!

    Here's an example of a hornback next to the dress JLC. What do you think? Poor match?

    [​IMG]

    This IWC below (model) is the exact same watch I have, pictures, however, are not. A Patek Perpetual Calendar will have to wait :D

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  6. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Was it the beaver part or the tail that she found threatening?
     
  7. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Hmmm. That doesn't look hornback hornback like your tan strap. I see your tan hornback on a Panerai, not a Breguet!

    If you're looking for an alternative "dress leather" for straps that isn't the usual reptile belly scale (which I agree is a bit ubiquitous), IMHO try (in no particular order):

    - peccary,
    - pig,
    - kangaroo tail (similar to your beaver tail but with a finer grain),
    - or ostrich.

    Pig is an unusual option that can take a high polish. I personally avoid lizard because of its poor durability.

    Alternatively try belly scale in an unusual colour like dark olive or dark burgundy.

    A black ostrich strap would be amazeballs with that beautiful dressier Reverso. The sportier/more casual Reversos can sometimes match really well with a simple plain unlined cordovan strap.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  8. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I'm at a loss as to how I can make a witty comeback to that, and YET not compromise my propriety. Pass.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Here's a more accurate picture below, according to my gf. In consolation, she thinks it looks better in real life.

    I was thinking of using the hornback on the IWC and the dark green beaver tail on the Breguet.

    Will look into getting others. Thanks for the opinion.

    [​IMG]

    Admittedly, I chose this colour, because I was seduced by the vintage piece from the British Raj when India was still part of the British Empire.

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  10. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Well, remember it's just my opinion, the truth comes in the pleasure derived (or not!) when actually worn on your wrist!!
     
  11. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    Very true.
     
  12. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I greatly prefer the belly and agree largely with Apropos. Honestly, I don't really care for hornback. Also IMHO hornback works better with watches of a sporty nature. But if you like the texture that's a personal choice.

    More textured and bumpy surfaces can be less costly, as they often hide defects, scars, or marks. This can work to ones advantage if you are very tough on leather good be it shoes, briefcases or coats.

    Perfect, unscarred bellies on crocs or gators are often difficult to obtain, and are very prized and costly. The best sections are used for larger items like handbags, briefcases, jackets etc. smaller areas obviously are used for smaller items such as wallets and watch straps. Years ago I thought the price of croc or alligator was because they are dangerous and difficult for people to work with. However a large part of their value is because even on farms, they are vicious wild animals that often fight with each other and develop scars and imperfections, making perfect skins rare. There is a great section on exotic skins in the book "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster."


    +1

    Pig is an unusual option that can take a high polish. I personally avoid lizard because of its poor durability.

    Alternatively try belly scale in an unusual colour like dark olive..[/quote]

    +1

    Unusual skins and colors can really add a lot to a watch. A friend of worked in the art and design fields and he has chosen some unusual skins... stingray (almost like small stones & very rugged, ostrich leg (looks sort of like a cross between python and alligator), pig skin, etc. He did an emerald green croc strap on a white gold and diamond Cartier Tank that was very impressive. A white metal watch is a blank canvas in terms of color. I've seen a watch with a dark blue alligator strap with medium blue stitching and it really tied in nicely with the blue moon phase subdial.

    The only skin I personally won't consider is ostrich. It's durable but I always look at it and think it looks like leather with acne. Just my 2 cents.

    Good luck with whatever you get..,and straps although pricey arent a major committment and can always be changed if an idea doesn't turn out as well as you hoped so be adventurous and have fun with it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2013
  13. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    Now see here, old chap:

    [​IMG]

    I think it looks OK on the right watch.

    [​IMG]

    I'm not so into ostrich shoes, though.
     
  14. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Thats a great watch...but I couldn't live with it on the "Acne strap." I'd gladly take a strap in virtually any other skin or a simple calf rather than ostrich.
     
  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    thans, dino. yeah, the links are not gonna happen. would be very difficult to replicate that, and very not cost efficient.
    ill do my best. :) that is a god idea. still costly tho. i like. enjoy yours, i hope we get to see a picture one of these days.
     
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