The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    The new Rolex Exp1 bracelet is much better, more solid feeling, and most importantly - much more satisfying to feel/use than the previous ones.

    I think the hands are "too short" only if you are coming from the POV that the 36mm version has a perfect dial-hand length balance, which I think is a subjective thing. Both are nice watches.

    Anyway, I felt like sharing some pictures of an old girl after I went through some old posts re: movement finishing...

    (yes, I need a new camera badly)

    OK, hobnail bezel, enamel dial, heat blued hands, retrograde power reserve, moonphase with day/night indicator, but what about the view from the rear?
    [​IMG]

    Hmmm, not much to see here...
    [​IMG]

    ...or is there?
    [​IMG]

    And another angle
    [​IMG]

    The cal. 240 family is coming on 40 years old now, and is the PP equivalent of a "workhorse movement"; their Toyota engine, if you will.

    The microrotor movement in its most basic form is still considered remarkably slim (2.4mm... hence cal. 240) and powers various references from simple time-only pieces all the way to perpetual calenders. The cal 240 family has touched nearly every PP collection, ranging from the Aquanauts, to the Ellipses, to the Calatravas, to the Complications, and finally, the Grand Complications. Nearly every single PP posted in this thread has a cal. 240 variant within... think about it.

    :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2013


  2. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Great review here not just of the dial/watch but of the boutique/location where you saw it being marketed.

    "Prestige" is interesting: the Philippines is nowhere near the per capita GDP of Singapore and yet it has boutiques for JLC, Hublot - even Patek Philippe. I guess if there's a large enough sliver of the population willing to shell out that kind of dough for timepieces...

    RE: The dial coming alive. Is it much like or comparable to the PP 5711/1A's blue/green dial?
     


  3. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    A lovely, lovely, lovely timepiece. Love that officer's case! Thanks for sharing!
     


  4. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Singapore population: 5.3 million

    Philippines population: 93 million


    Forget the per capita GDP. Even a poor country has numerically more rich people in its elite, than a tiny country with a higher average income. Filipinos might be generally poorer than Singaporeans, but I guess there are still more rich Filipinos than rich Singaporeans: the top 1% of Filipinos are still twice as many as the top 10% of Singaporeans.

    It sounds obvious now I say it, but it's interesting: if I were opening boutiques in Asia, I'd probably think of Singapore before Manila. But thanks to you, now I think about it, I believe that might be wrong.
     


  5. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Yes, I did not mean this to be an extended discourse on income and inequality, and implications for market segmentation and strategy (I'm an economist so that is what I do all day) but just a comment on "prestige
    goods" and different countries. I have lived in both Singapore and the Philippines, but not during the time when I was more aware of horology, etc. Now I guess I will be keeping a closer eye out for the sociology of it all. Always something new to learn.
     


  6. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    My background is as a political analyst and I do a lot of advisory work on emerging markets (Middle East usually), so I also find this stuff very interesting. Sorry for boring everyone else; best I don't get started!
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2013


  7. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Have you seen a RO Diver in the flesh? I did not understand the offshores until I saw them in person; the trademark AP finishing is really impressive and striking with the larger scale. I'm not sure there are any divers at or below its price bracket with comparable case/dial finishing and movement and overall "wow" factor, except maybe the Fifty Fathoms which has very different aesthetics and wrist feel. Here's another image:

    [​IMG]

    My only reservation about some offshores is that the vulnerability to scratches of the brushed steel bezels is compounded by the case height. Would personally favor a rubber or ceramic bezel for an offshore.
     


  8. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Oh, it's not like the Nautilus dial at all. That one I would call somewhat matte and metallic its finish, which the Rouge isn't at all. The Nautilus also has (or at least appears to have) an actual colour gradation - the centre of the dial looks to have a different absolute colour from the edges, adding to its depth. This may or may not be an illusion due to the physical depth of the dial relative to the bezel - I am not sure.

    Like I mentioned earlier the Rouge is a solid, even, opaque red, a lacquer red, but at certain angles it almost looks like it has a "wet" clear layer over it. The "railroad tracks" and hour markers around the dial are solid silver, and look to have been set into the lacquer when it was still wet - there are "dimples" where the metal appliques look to have broken the surface tension of the lacquer.

    The 'Reverso' text is printed in a silvery-white ink - it looks stark white at certain angles, and silver at certain angles.

    I can clearly see why the JLC aficionados over at PuristsPro went nuts over the watch when it first came out - it's most certainly not a watch for everyone but it definitely speaks to and emotionally connects with certain WISes, like girls with pale milky skin, red hair and freckles (ahem).

    I'm just happy that I finally got to see the watch in the flesh given I'm from Australia, a very real horological wasteland with a population of 22 million and not a single JLC boutique. Or Hublot boutiques. Or Blancpain boutiques. Or Vacheron Constantin boutiques. Or hell, even Patek Phillipe boutiques. Sure, there are multibrand ADs, but it's so often a case of jack of all trades and master of none...

    Well, the Phillipines has multiple JLC boutiques, not just one.

    ...but IMO the comparison is an apples-oranges one because not only is Singapore geographically a speck it is in economic terms a very very very very wealthy speck. Think sauce vs soup in terms of flavour punch and I think that is a reasonable analogy between Singapore and the Phillipines - sure there is quantitatively a lot of flavour in the Philipines but it is sort of spread out (soup), while Singapore while quantitatively not having much flavour has it all concentrated instead and so qualitatively packs a bigger flavour punch (sauce).
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2013


  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    gdl - thanks for the pics of the rotation, very nice to finally see that.

    apropos - great patek, and the JLC is a stunner.
     


  10. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    The red reverso is beautiful in person. I hate the term "understated" as applied to watches since it's usually a euphemism for "dull" and "insipid", but on this piece JLC did a great job of achieving a sense of restraint/sophistication to balance the flamboyance of the red. If I were looking for a 2 hand dress watch in this price range, I would seriously consider it, and would have a hard time resisting the temptation of taking a risk that could pay off so big.
     


  11. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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  12. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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  13. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    That last page was popper prawn. [​IMG]
     


  14. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    I actually really love the AP divers (and ROO in general). I like the robustness of the case and I think it works well with AP's Genta-designed case. The AP finishing and quality really elevate their divers IMO.

     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    i would agree, but really hard to tell.
     


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