The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Lebowski10

    Lebowski10 Member

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    I was thinking the same, stitch - especially since I find myself wearing brown shoes/belt the majority of the time...my tag with a black case and bracelet can fill in for the black shoe and casual attire
     


  2. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Senior member

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    Beautiful watch Dino! VC always makes such extravagant designs. Reminds me of the Cioccolatone somewhat. Interesting to see the JLC cal 822 in there. By the way, do you actually own a Dino?
     


  3. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I agree that many great watch companies practice incrementalism and current designs slowly evolve. There is nothing wrong with that. Rolex has done that for a long time and one of the benefits is that models do not look dated in just 5 years or so and resale remains strong on watches like Submariners, GMTS, Daytonas, etc. I guess I just didn't see much that excited me from SIHH from any watch companies including AP.

    AP does work in differnet materials, although I'm not sure I alway see a value in that, especially at the prices they charge. I can see using Titanium (very light weight, hypo alergenic for those with allergies to nickel alloys, and very durable) and I recognize thats a very tough material to work with, hence its cost is reflected when used for watches. Carbon Fiber makes sense in a racing car where weight savings combined with strength are crucial to top speed and acceleration. However, on AP's carbon watches...well to me it just cheapens the look of the watch. Much of the details of the case and bezel get lost in the black coloring, not to mention, although its just my taste I find black watches are sometimes cool looking but often remind me of inexpensive plastic watches...but thats just me. The Offshore is a great watch, its just I find many of the newer versions are just color changes (and they do way too many limited edition Offshores. If you do lots of limited editions often based on color changes, eventually they just don't seem as special). As for the new ceramic diver if you love it go for it. Its nice looking although it basically looks like their Offshore Carbon Diver other than the markings are now orange instead of yellow. I really like the diver, I just prefer in in steel with a matching bracelet....but I can see a strap would also make it a different experience than your Dual Time, which is a beauty!

    I agree the Edward Piguet line is largely underdeveloped or forgotten.
     


  4. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Hi B,

    Interesting, I've never looked at it and thought about the Cioccolatone. However, now that you mention it, the layering/stepped effect does remind me of it. Although, the Carree's design is based on a VC from the 1930s while I believe the Cioccolatone is from around the 1950s. Who knows, maybe the Carree got them to thinking about watch a watch would look like if they rounded and smoothed most of its lines...just kidding...no idea. Both are beauties IMHO.

    My friends call me Dino. I don't own a Dino, but I have one of its descendants, a 1989 328GTS.
     


  5. vincefb

    vincefb Well-Known Member

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  6. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Fully agree with you on the multiple LE iterations of the ROO chronos. It's a bit of a smorgasbord, but many love them for it.

    Toss up for me when I next have the cash is between either the Jules Extra Thin or one of the Divers...The Millenary 4101 has been on my radar, too. Apples and oranges, I know. I waver back and forth. Would like to have a refined dress watch in my collection, but feel that I would get more use from the Diver. I spend most of my spare time chasing after small children, I wear tweeds and flannels to work, and spend time in the outdoors, so in many ways, the Diver would be a better fit to my lifestyle...
     


  7. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Nice Overseas! :) I do like it on a strap.
     


  8. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    What about a Stowa or Nomos? My Stowa was around 800 I think.

    It gets more wrist time than my Sub LV

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  9. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Talking about AP, PP, and VC, and their respective reputations has kind of got me thinking recently. As a relative newcomer to horology, it is interesting to read the perspective of others in regards to the 'trinity.' As a younger guy (at least in regards to most on this thread), I feel like I have a very different perspective of the trinity than most. I think that out of the three, I definitely view PP to be in a league of its own (I am excluding AL&S). PP is definitely what I have always perceived as the tip-top of the tier. Somewhere below them I view VC. I actually never heard of VC until I became more interested in watches. Even now, I view them as a slight step down from PP, but in the same realm.

    What I find kind of funny is how people tend to lump AP in with PP and VC (and AL&S). At least from my perspective, I generally associate AP with rappers, nouveau riche, etc. In a lot of ways, like a more expensive Hublot or possible IWC. Now, that is not to say that I necessarily think that. There are a lot of AP pieces that I would LOVE to own. I just typically do not think of them as being part of that top tier anymore. They do not market like PP or VC, they have much more 'mainstream' styles, they use celebrities. When I think of AP, I automatically think of the ROO, and various special editions.

    I guess I just find it interesting, because for me, AP just does not hold the same cachet as I think it does for other generations.
     


  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    newcomer - that is very interesting.

    i first started learning about watches in my early 20s, mostly through advertisements, and then through watch articles and eventually watch magazines at about 25. around that time, i actually had mentally grouped AP/VC/PP together in my head, before i ever heard the term, "the big three." just from the ads i saw, the things i read, and the vibe i got. i just put those 3 at the top of the pile, and i dont think i am from an earlier generation, i mean, im only 30 (even though saying that makes me feel old).

    so i find it interesting that though you probably saw much of the same things i did, you processed it differently.

    i do think that a lot of people think first of RO/ROO when they hear AP, and that is certainly different than the vibe of VC/PP, but for me, the first image i think of is the equation of time watch, and that is probably because i saw so many ads for it. when i think of AP i think of their very rich history, the fact they are still privately owned and partially by someone of the original family, their many many high complication watches, their constant innovations in haute watchmaking, and their very classy models. the RO/ROO are a nice (the nice ones that is, everyone makes watches that people dont like) afterthought to me. like a tasty dessert after a steak. and for me, that is why i feel they deserve to be planted firmly in "the big three."

    sidebar - i also had, and still do have, the impression, that though PP is part of "the big three," i see them as slightly above.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


  11. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Hey! I'm only 28! lol. I see where you are coming from though but of the people who i know around my age who are into watches most would definitely group VC and Patek together, some would even consider VC more prestigious because it is less well known that PP so a kind of inverse snobbery. Actually a friend of mine (take this with a grain of salt because he only has a VC and not a Patek) even goes so far as to say that PP is for CEOs, heads of state etc, while VC is for aristocrats and old money. In my view though i would say VC, PP, AL&S etc are all top of the food chain when it comes to watches and which one is better is all just nitpicking.
     


  12. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    You have got a few years on me, but not too many then! And I guess I rarely see many advertisements outside of the ROO, and special edition models. Even the magazine articles on AP tend to revolve around the new editions of the ROO. That is an interesting perspective though. To me, I feel like their 'classic' collection is no longer their bread and butter. I have a feeling that the vast majority of their sales come from their ROOs and the like, and I really do not understand why they keep the classic collection?

    For example, let us introduce Exhibist 1 and 2:

    http://ap.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-3/pi-5691963/ti-840148/s-0/
    http://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/novelties/26564IC.OO.D002CR.01

    I understand there are going to be more novelties... but even their "haute horologie" piece, at least to my eyes, seems to lack direction. Looking at that piece, I don't automatically think AP. On the other hand, I could point out a Lange novelty, or a PP novelty, or even a VC novelty a mile away. Even GO. Out of the novelties, I see 7/9 are RO and RO variants. 1/9 is a woman's watch. And the other one is a Haute Horology piece. For a company with such a heralded history, surely there is a dearth of classic dress watches, or at least some variety.

    I just think its funny that I always hear the trinity spoken of together... but AP seems to have gone off on its own tangent. At least since I have been around (2 years?).

    I just wonder the long term effects.

    Very interesting how divergent our feelings are!

    I never realized that about AP's history though. I guess I have just started ignoring history, being that so much of it is either contrived or a lie. That certainly makes me respect the brand a whole lot more!


    I can certainly agree with that! And that is quite humorous about VC... I kind of agree in a way though! VC is definitely more exotic than PP. And I have to agree with the fact that all three are kind of on the same level. I prefer VC's cases, PP's 'harmony,' and AL&S' movements.
     


  13. marvin100

    marvin100 Senior member

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    Newcomer: I agree to some degree. I suspect that Hublot's excessive and often hideous copycatting is having a negative impact on AP's image. I do like the elegance and inimitability of the classic RO lines, though.
     


  14. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Im actually interested in hearing why you think so? Is it because of marketing/the watch movements/ history? Anything in particular that causes you too see them as slightly above? Im not trying to defend VC, and AP or anything I'm just interested in what causes people to view a certain brand in a certain way
     


  15. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    well, i would imagine that because for whatever reason, the RO/ROO became very very popular, and all these watch companies are in fact business out to make money, they would have to be dumb not capitalize on that success. so they pour R&D and advertising into developing that model. hence the offerings you see. and im not sure what that cushion shaped tourb/repeater/chrono is about, but i think its neat. im not really that up with the newest offerings.

    now, happens to be i like a lot of the ROs, and others i think are way OTT. but while we might be here pointing fingers, they are laughing all the way to the bank. i dont think that in the long run it will hurt them at all. its just one of the many successful chapters in their long and illustrious history (yes, i am a huge AP fanboi). i imagine, its only a matter of time before they move on to something else. all smart companies are always moving and changing to a degree.

    i dont know how much they put into their other models, but i assume they still make them. here are some from the JA and EP lines that i think are great. it was these types of things that got me on the AP wagon. i did not link many uber high complication and torbs, i tried to keep it on the simpler side.

    and while a lot of the watch history out there is fluff filled, i would recommend reading up on AP, and some other of the more venerable brands too. VC/PP/ALS/Blancpain/JLC some cool stuff to learn and find out about in their history.

    also, yes, it is very interesting how divergent our impressions are, lol.

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    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013


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