Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.
Hopefully this will give you time to reconsider
Haha not a fan of the XVII? You have the XV, correct?
Would you really use the second time zone function much?
I can honestly say I have no need for a second time zone watch.
That is a very cool rollie though. I think one of the few current models that I would not mind having. I still don't really see myself springing for a Rolex anytime soon though.
There are two Rolex's I want. An older, smaller Explorer and a decent looking Sky-Dweller. I have plenty of watches that substitute for the Explorer, so I doubt I will get that. But the day Rolex figures out how to clean up the Sky-Dweller dial, I will get one.
Really? I would love a 1016 Explorer (probably my vintage Rollie of choice), but I would not touch the Sky Dweller with a ten foot pole. I think I finally found what I hate about it. It is like an ultra bling-ed up version of what is classic Rolex DNA. They will have to do a LOT of cleaning up on that one. In my most humble of opinions, it just screams nouveau riche. At that price, ALS is available, Patek is available--the world is your oyster. Unless I had an extremely extensive collection (a la Depechedior... or is it Ddress... I forget who has one around here), I would pass.
And I am harsh on this just because I really respect your style Dopey.
Yup And I think that it's pretty much a perfect watch, but then I'm mostly intrigued by design and history over in-house movements, etc.
You probably know this already, but what I (and some others, I guess) have against the Mark XVI and later models, is the bastardization of the original Mark design, which had been carried pretty faithfully from the Mark XI (based on the 6B/346 designation by the Ministry of Defense), through the Mark XII and Mark XV (with the latter two adding a date function). More on Mk here.
If I wanted a more germanic looking flieger / Beobachtungs-uhr (which is where IWC has taken the design of the hands on the Mark XVI and XVII from), I'd go with a unbranded Stowa or Archimede. The 'Mark' designation no longer seems appropriate on these designs, IMO.
Of course, there's no reason why you should be similarly hung up on the historic aspects of it all; in the end I think that how you feel about the design on it's own should be the determining factor.
That, and maybe a need to be able to tell at a glance not only today's date, but also what both the preceeding and following dates were/will be ;-)
I think we agree about the Sky-Dweller. The presentation is a mess, but I really like the function. That is why I would like to see it cleaned up. The only difference between us, I think, is you are just expressing yourself a little more emphatically. But if you created a clear, clean dial that retained all the function, It could be a great, tough as nails, never-take-off-your-wrist, everyday super-functional watch.
Thanks for the informative post. Enjoyed reading the links as well.
Got it! I can certainly see that. I don't really see myself as the precious-metal-Rolex-wearer. I could certainly see that as well.
I feel like it would take a design miracle to really clean the watch up though. I think a good start could be a non-fluted bezel, SS, black, printed arabic numerals, black dial, white GMT ring (evoking the panda?) that is better integrated, less text, no cyclops. They could even call it the poor mans Sky-Dweller. I would like to see a black and white layout, perhaps with red accents. The hands can stay I guess, although I would not mind sword hands. The minute track also kind of bothers me, due to its lack of functionality.
I can certainly see what you're getting at there, and I am aware of the qualms many purists have with the watch. I was just interested to hear your take.
Strictly from a design standpoint I actually prefer the addition of the extended date window and the red arrow. I think it adds a bit of visual interest to the watch without the addition of a cumbersome chrono dial (which would obviously make for an even further bastardization of the original design). It strikes a more casual chord, making it decidedly sportier in an elegant opinion, IMO. For some reason I think a lot of the more spartan-faced pilot's watches, especially those with leather bands, flirt a middle ground too much; a certain degree of indecisiveness about whether they are dressier or more casual.
Obviously, this is just my opinion and far from the accepted connotation and use for Mark series. I'm sure one day I'll get a handle on my reckless proclivities and tastes . Thanks again for the info, Kap!
Another thing they could do, which would go a long way, would be to put the entire 24 hour ring under the dial with just an arced window for the home time. You only need to see the part of the dial around the actual time. That secondary dial is what causes the most damage and if you can work on that, you have done a lot.
And I also agree that there is no reason for gold. This should be a steel watch, but that is true of every non-Cellini Rolex.
I hate the cyclops in general, but I am so excited about a date mechanism that really [almost] works that I could grudgingly live with it.
One thing I like about the hands is that you can see through them to the home time dial (to be re-designed as a window) underneath. I would leave that alone.
I don't like fluted bezels, but I don't hate them either and they are so much a part of Rolex design that I would live with it. It certainly wouldn't put me off getting one. I dislike the cyclops much more.
Have you talked to you sister about watches? Have you considered what her job will be when she graduates college or interviews?
If you haven not talked to her or considered interviews and her job after college, I think getting a mens watch that is as large and sporty as a Sub or even a Santos 100 is a mistake. Guys often want to buy watches for women that they think are cool without thinking about how useful it is for her. Sure you might like the look of it but its just not versatile enough for a young woman who will probably have just one good watch for a few years (unless you treat her to others). If you got her a normal size watch from a good company she will be able to wear it to very dressy events, causual events, job interviews etc. If you get her something that looks big and sporty on her it will limit its versatility and wearability. I can't imagine a young woman dressing up for a job interview and wearing a Submariner or Santos 100 to her interview, or wearing them to a very formal function. Also, some women would rather have a quartz just so they do not have to worry about it stopping if they don't wear it or wind it for a few days.
Many women I know really like Cartier, often far more than Rolex. Many of their designs are more versatile and work better for womens wardrobes. I can tell you my wife has a steel and rose gold Rolex Datejust and a mens size Cartier Tank Francaise (which isn't that large) and her Tank Francaise gets 95% of her wrist time. In the end if you get her something thats a bit smaller or more of a womans watch it will probably be more versatile for her...just my 2 cents.
Obviously if you have talked to her and a Submariner or Santos 100 is her dream watch then disregard what I have said above. Good luck!
Good catch, that one slipped my mind.
Seems the nearest in price range to mine is the Dornblueth at under 5k. But none of these guys offer a bespoke hand-engraved balance cock, let alone two of them in a single movement.
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate it.
thanks! but its not mine............. yet. i hope. hnngghghghghgngnghghghghghhhh
and once you get the bug, you best not even fight it. it will be a waste of energy as you will certainly lose.
yerp. i have one on my JLC, and its always set to israel time. as a reminder to keep my heart and mind with jerusalem, and because i have family there and glance at my watch to see if its a reasonable time to call.
technically, its not current. it is the original gmt master II, the 16760 and was run only for 5 years. replaced by the better known, 16710. i think that is correct. so i have learned in my investigating today anyways. also, the creamy white hour markers are delicious.
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