1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

Tags:
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    I use our shipping account. But I have permission for that. :)
     
  2. elisiX

    elisiX Senior member

    Messages:
    1,106
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2012
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Quick pic from yesterday. PAM390. [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  3. no frills

    no frills Senior member

    Messages:
    2,204
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2013
    Location:
    NYC
    +1 especially for the font sizing!
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. no frills

    no frills Senior member

    Messages:
    2,204
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2013
    Location:
    NYC
    Great recent posts from Dino, mimo and stitchy about the evolving relationships of ADs and manufacturers. There are a few 100+ year old relationships that Patek has with the Tiffanys and Wempes of this world that might stand such tests, but all I've heard about Rolex is what others have posted about it too about tightening the screws on their dealers, past relationships be damned.

    On a lighter note, a friend of mine is headed up to Geneva for a week to be wined and dined by the Patek higher ups, all expenses paid. Perhaps Sandrine Stern will tempt him with ornate engraved cases and other such "innovative" new designs. This one is c/o one of Patek's leading ADs in the US so obviously if you're moving inventory for a manufacturer, it is in their interest to keep their relationship with you.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

    Messages:
    6,217
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2007
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Am I the only one that thinks the AT (while a fantastic watch) is basically just a Rolex Explorer I homage? If you don't think so, here's the AT-Railmaster

    [​IMG]

    You can call the DJ generic if you like, but it's the original design - all the others are copies.
     
  6. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,093
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2009
    

    Silly Moo. I was the one who sent you to the FAD for your Speedy!
     
  7. apropos

    apropos Senior member

    Messages:
    4,456
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    

    Not even close, ChicagoRon! :stirpot:

    The AT's dial/hands are a direct reference to the Omega Ranchero, a model which debuted in the late 1950s. In turn the design DNA of the Rachero has its origins in 3 iconic Omega models - the (original) Speedmaster, the (original) Seamaster 300, and the (original) Railmaster - all released in the mid 1950s.

    [​IMG]
    (the original Ranchero)

    Note that the Rolex Explorer has only been around since the early 1950s, and in the form we recognise today only since the mid 50s.

    So a contemporary, yes. A homage, no. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013
    2 people like this.
  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,662
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    I think the boutique idea can be very successful for large volume companies or companies under a very strong umbrella (Richemont). Cartier has had boutiques all over the world for decades. They have a business model and they know how to make it work. Supposedly they closed down more than 140 ADs within the last 3 years. Some boutiques will go into markets that have enough sales of their products through ADs. In midsize markets and more remote markets they will leave AD's in place if they do enough business. Small ADs...adios! I think lower volume Richemont companies like VC we will see boutiques here and there more to show a presence (NYC, Vegas, BH) rather than as a true business necessity. Really, small production companies, such as Lange, we may or may not see 1 boutique say in NYC (for show).

    A brand like Rolex has money to blow, so even if it costs them some money to set up some boutiques, and I while to find the right model to make it work, they have the money to weather out the storm and eventually make their boutiques profitable.

    The days of big discounts on watches from ADs are gone. I won't bore you guys with details, but lets just say, my father could get 30-40 off Pateks, I could get 35% off VCs and JLCs, 25% off Cartiers, 15% off steel Rolex(except Daytonas). AD's are afraid of being punished, with loss of franchise, being sent large batches of harder to sell merchandise, being forced to carry ridiculous amounts of inventory etc. The deals that were available 10 years ago or more are gone.

    Beyond being disappointed about not getting the deals I used to be able to get, I am sad to see ADs I liked lose brands I am interested in purchasing. It makes it tougher for me to continue a relationship with them.

    However, I do understand why some brands, want to open more boutiques. They have control over pricing, stock of more sought after models, and the profit from a sale goes completely to them. They are not merely getting a portion of the sale, so that a middleman/AD can make a profit even after a discount.

    Either way, whether one lives in an area with ADs or Boutiques or both, I think discounts will be much smaller than what we were traditionally used to years ago, and in some cases they may be non existent.



    +1
    I've seen several family owned jewelry stores in our area that were Rolex ADs for 50+ years recently lose their contracts with Rolex.

    Rolex is quite possibly the most important brand a dealer can carry. I remember one AD telling me Rolex can make or break a month for a store, while brands like Lange, Patek, AP, VC, etc are nice window dressing for collectors...but most ADs can't survive on them alone.

    So basically if an AD has Rolex or can get them (very tough to get a new account with them these days), ADs will do anything it takes to make Rolex happy.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,662
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    I agree with you about them being contemporaries. While Ron isn't accurate about it being an homage, I do think he has a point. I have to say when I look at an AT, I can't help but think of the Explorer 1. However, when I look at an Explorer 1, I never think of the AT.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    that ranchero is amazing.
     
  11. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

    Messages:
    932
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2010
    Location:
    EUR
    
    The Tank looks like a good fit on you. Here's an XGT-size Reverso next to a 42 mm watch for size comparison. [​IMG] I'm starting to realize that I like the idea of the Reverso better than the actual wearing of it. I've been reaching for the GP every time since it arrived for situations that suit that type of watch. Here's how it looks on the wrist. Its colours are more visible in this photo, too. [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  12. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

    Messages:
    8,333
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Location:
    Oakville, Ontario, CANADA
    Man, would I ever love the opportunity to get bored with a stunning Reverso like that!
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. ErikW

    ErikW Senior member

    Messages:
    575
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2011
    Location:
    Austin, Texas
    Is that GP vintage? What model is it? I'm not seeing it on their site.
     
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    Belligero - your pics never fail to to satisfy.
     
  15. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

    Messages:
    1,433
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2004
    Location:
    Texas
    That one's really gorgeous, Belligero.

    HUGE crown.

    Just enough red to give it a little, as the French say, I don't know what.

    Also, one of those pieces that's perfect without a date, IMO. (Sure, GP could put one on there, but you don't really need it, right?)

    AND ..... I really like that strap combo.

    Total win, dude.
     
  16. kungapa

    kungapa Senior member

    Messages:
    838
    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2010
    Regarding ADs and the value chain - I think vertical integration is the next natural step, especially for companies like SWATCH Group.

    I recently undertook a bit of a study regarding this for school. Although the study focused especially on ETA no longer supplying ebauche and finished movements, it also shed some light on future overall vertical integration.

    Some numbers to illuminate things:

    Average finished mechanical movement wholesale cost: CHF120-CHF150 or so, sometimes even lower. EBITDA margin: ~13%

    Average Swiss mechanical watch wholesale price: CHF 2222. EBITDA margin ~20%

    Average Retail price: around CHF4000. Unsure of margin, since I didn't study it.

    This partially explains why it made sense for ETA to stop supplying movements to out-group brands. Additionally, in regards to moving into boutique retail, it is a classic double marginalization problem. If the group has enough volume to create their own retail outlets, it makes perfect sense.

    (apologies if it is unclear - these were just a few quick thoughts of what I remembered from a much longer study)
     
  17. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2011
    Location:
    Seattle
    Maybe not the normal caliber seen around here but I surprised my GF with this last night for our anniversary - A Frederique Constant auto from their Classics range.
    I have an FC, love the value, and she continually compliments me on it. She also expressed interest in the "wearing your boyfriends watch" look so popular today and especially a gold watch.

    This fits the bill for now. Came on Genuine Alligator (or Croc, I forget) band too!

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,662
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    ^^^^ Congrats to the girlfriend. Hope she enjoys her new watch!
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

    Messages:
    2,983
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2012
    Nice looking watch and I love the look of a woman wearing a mans watch. Something about a girl in Sub that gets me.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
    7,383
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Yes indeed. Love the first-world-problem of the Reverso, but that GP really is gorgeous.

    This is a subject I was thinking about recently. Anyone else who prefers no date? I mean, I would love a annual/perpetual calendar, but aside from that I find a date-only window is usually just an irritating bit of clutter on less complicated pieces.

    Yes. Nice post.

    That's very smart, and I was just discussing similar aesthetics with Mrs Mimo last night. And it's alligator, I think. Nice.

    It can definitely work. But if I see a girl in a Sub, I'm probably thinking first about how comparatively easy it might be to mug her. So far, the urge passes with no harm done.
     
    1 person likes this.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by