The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[chocomallo]

My take on Hodinkee is one of Hate/ Envy. I actually really like what the site was set up to be, which was a watch fan site. At some point, money/ ad dollars started corrupting that goal, which I could live with until they started selling watches. With that said, they built a very popular and influential brand and there is no end to the envy I feel about them getting to design, or at least help design watches in their collaborations. That has to be one of the greatest joys that they have and I am sure it was completely unexpected when Hodinkee was started.

I generally agree. But Ben Clymer has produced hundreds of millions of dollars in goodwill to the watch industry. Maybe billions. He deserves more credit than he gets. His smugness is wholly earned. I would argue he is the most important person in the entire watch industry. And the evidence is he can get any brand (perhaps aside from Rolex and Patek) to make a special edition. I think people lose sight of that when criticizing Hodinkee. I certainly have at times. But I do think if Jack, Cara and Stephen left it would take a huge hit so it is a brand that is a cult of personality in many ways. Revolution tanked after Jack left I think. Even though Wei is really fantastic. Sorry if my response was tangential. I normally crap on Hodinkee.

 

[bdavro23]

I generally agree. But Ben Clymer has produced hundreds of millions of dollars in goodwill to the watch industry. Maybe billions. He deserves more credit than he gets. His smugness is wholly earned. I would argue he is the most important person in the entire watch industry. And the evidence is he can get any brand (perhaps aside from Rolex and Patek) to make a special edition. I think people lose sight of that when criticizing Hodinkee. I certainly have at times. But I do think if Jack, Cara and Stephen left it would take a huge hit so it is a brand that is a cult of personality in many ways. Revolution tanked after Jack left I think. Even though Wei is really fantastic. Sorry if my response was tangential. I normally crap on Hodinkee.

You and I are on the same page and I dont begrudge Ben any of the success he has earned. My only objection is that they sell new watches, outside of their collaborations. Even when they were just inflating prices on the vintage stuff they sold, I was really fine with it. And honestly, I have really liked the collabs, except for the Omega one since the MK40 has been on my list for quite a while to buy and they pushed prices up on them dramatically... In any event, it would be hard for me to say I would do differently in his position, but I'll never have to make that call.

As for Wei, I really cant stand his writing style. I know there are many who are big fans, so I am probably in the minority in thinking his writing is just awful. With that said, I am glad he is around and promoting the industries he is in.

 

[chocomallo]

You and I are on the same page and I dont begrudge Ben any of the success he has earned. My only objection is that they sell new watches, outside of their collaborations. Even when they were just inflating prices on the vintage stuff they sold, I was really fine with it. And honestly, I have really liked the collabs, except for the Omega one since the MK40 has been on my list for quite a while to buy and they pushed prices up on them dramatically... In any event, it would be hard for me to say I would do differently in his position, but I'll never have to make that call.

As for Wei, I really cant stand his writing style. I know there are many who are big fans, so I am probably in the minority in thinking his writing is just awful. With that said, I am glad he is around and promoting the industries he is in.

Agreed. The new watch sales blur the line beyond recognition. I think that is the main source of contention.

I do agree the MK40 trumps the Hodinkee collab. Bummer you got primed by the Hodinkee wave.

In my opinion Wei is greatest in candid interviews where his enthusiasm shines. But I agree his writing is turgid. But even in interviews he can be overbearing. Nevertheless he has superb taste.

 

[Belligero]

I have to admit I am not familiar with typeface ownership and licensing but I doubt that the licensing fee for a typeface is what causes brands to use Arial over something more pleasing to watch enthusiasts. The manufacturing piece I agree should be easy if it is computer controlled.

To be clear, it's Microsoft that's avoiding the fee by using a Helvetica knockoff, whereas the most likely reason the watch companies end up using it is simply because it's the default setting.

 

[Texasmade]

In my opinion Wei is greatest in candid interviews where his enthusiasm shines. But I agree his writing is turgid. But even in interviews he can be overbearing. Nevertheless he has superb taste.

I'm not really down with all of the ridiculous rings he wears though. It's a little much for my taste.

 

[Scuppers]

I'm not really down with all of the ridiculous rings he wears though. It's a little much for my taste.

✔️
The whole ring thing is also my gripe with Nicholas Foulkes (who’s writing I really enjoy). Too much.

 

[smittycl]

I recently went to Lenkersdorfer in Tysons and they charged me $50/watch for an appraisal. It wasn't what I'd call a thorough appraisal as they didn't take the caseback off to check the movement. They simply did a glance over of the watch, took down the serial and model numbers, and then sent me a written appraisal letter a few days later stating the watch's replacement value. They provided 2 copies of the signed letter (one for me and one for the insurance company in case they won't accept a copy).

Back from vacation and took the last two days to recover and address the to-do list. Stopped by Lenkersdorfer and got the $50 appraisal. They are emailing it to me shortly. Pretty quick process although I would have felt better if they had opened the watch. I suppose it doesn’t matter too much as it’s never actually been opened.

Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[smittycl]

✔️
The whole ring thing is also my gripe with Nicholas Foulkes (who’s writing I really enjoy). Too much.

Guess I’m too traditional. Guys only look good wearing wedding bands and maybe school rings if they went to a military academy. Anything else warrants a raised eyebrow and initial sense of distrust from me.

 

[brax]

I generally agree. But Ben Clymer has produced hundreds of millions of dollars in goodwill to the watch industry. Maybe billions. He deserves more credit than he gets. His smugness is wholly earned. I would argue he is the most important person in the entire watch industry. And the evidence is he can get any brand (perhaps aside from Rolex and Patek) to make a special edition. I think people lose sight of that when criticizing Hodinkee. I certainly have at times. But I do think if Jack, Cara and Stephen left it would take a huge hit so it is a brand that is a cult of personality in many ways. Revolution tanked after Jack left I think. Even though Wei is really fantastic. Sorry if my response was tangential. I normally crap on Hodinkee.

You are probably correct about Rolex/PP collaborations but I'm certain that they both keep a close eye on what is said about them by the Hodinkee staff. When they reviewed the PP5320G and were less than enthused that the case was stamped rather than milled, PP reached out to explain that decision. I doubt they explain their choices to many other media outlets.

On a different note, I'm not big on versatility in watches and look to fill in niches of my own creation. After a pit stop between the dealer and my house, my business watch is on its way! But, in the mean time, I'll share what I have thus far. As this is SF, maybe the best way to explain my niches is by reference to clothing. I thus want a watch that I wear with: A) travel in developing countries; B) jeans/shorts/calvary twill; C) Sports coats and business-casual; D) business; and E) social, evening functions.

Watch A: My wife and I spend a lot of time on the road travelling out of a North Face duffel (our next trip is about 6 months in the islands of SEAsia). This 38mm Luminox has seen duty on three other trips (continental SEAsia, South America, Balkans and Central Europe). I busted the original watch strap on a float trip in Chile but it is otherwise working great.

 

[brax]

Watch B: jeans and shorts. This 40mm Explorer II got a lot of wrist time as it had to cover slots C and D for quite some time. I never babied it and it’s still in great shape. I was tempted to trade it in for a new GMT Batman but I think I’m over that urge.

 

[Journeyman]

As for Wei, I really cant stand his writing style. I know there are many who are big fans, so I am probably in the minority in thinking his writing is just awful. With that said, I am glad he is around and promoting the industries he is in.

+1000. I can't remember whether it was in The Rake or in Revolution, but some years ago Wei wrote an article about a visit to Rolex's manufacturing facility that was a truly awful and peculiar mix of cringing adulation and blatant self-stroking of his own ego.

It read like it was written by a high school student who was terribly pleased at his own self-importance at being invited to visit Rolex headquarters and who had raided a book of quotations and a thesaurus to assist in writing the article.

 

[Ebitdaddy]

Put an offer in a Lange 1 Tourbillon. Wish me luck boiz

 

[Scuppers]

+1000. I can't remember whether it was in The Rake or in Revolution, but some years ago Wei wrote an article about a visit to Rolex's manufacturing facility that was a truly awful and peculiar mix of cringing adulation and blatant self-stroking of his own ego.

It read like it was written by a high school student who was terribly pleased at his own self-importance at being invited to visit Rolex headquarters and who had raided a book of quotations and a thesaurus to assist in writing the article.

It was The Rake - 2015 - made me a little vomitous, too.

 

[am55]

Here you go: https://therake.com/stories/craft/the-future-is-now-behind-the-scenes-at-rolex/

"Although there are approximately 6,500 languages spoken on Earth, there is one word that is arguably the most universally recognised. Its two syllables summon the image of man at the very apogee of heroism, courage and resilience, for they have accompanied him to the summit of Everest and through the first breaking of the sound barrier."

 

[double00]

this is primed for one of those Hustler send up ads where they count out all the horrible things that people have done whilst wearing a rolex. the pitfalls of ubiquity...