The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Newcomer]

Beautiful AP!!! Values on a lot of pieces from the 1980s are kept in that range due to size. Simple time only pieces were often 33 or 34mm, with more complicated pieces being 36mm. Even AP's RO and Patek's Nautilus shrunk and were offered most of them were 36mm (although yes Jumbo's were still available). Today, people expect larger/bolder cases and lugs, so many piece from the 80's are a bit tougher to sell. But they can represent a great value to those who like the size and those designs.

Since I got my 36mm explorer, I have not taken it off my dainty wrist. To me, 33-34 mm is still too wee for my taste. And I still have zero qualms with sports watches between 40-42mm. But for a dress watch, 36-39 mm is the sweet spot for me. In fact, a lot of these 39mm plus dress watches have way too much dial, in my opinion. I tried the Patek 6119 recently, and it looked like a dinner plate on my wrist. (Note: Patek's Caliber 30‑255 PS is really nice, but 39mm is seemingly as small as they can go with that caliber. That is a bit of a pity. I think it will be fine with a complication or so, however.)

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I forgot gesticulating was a word. I plan on using it on an annoying level this evening.

 

[RobinMA]

In terms of where the market is, I do not think there is a better deal than "neo-vintage" - this clocks in somewhere under $30,000.

View attachment 1745029

The watch itself is great. Which ref# is it?

I know that some people believe that light-coloured "Hermes leather" straps in grey, taupe etc. are all the rage, but on this watch a traditional high gloss crocodile strap in black looks much more stratospherically appropriate.

 

[pmeis]

About 2 months into the pandemic, Everything I owned was blue dialed, 100m WR, 40mm with 20mm lugs. I thought this was the way to having a flexible, yet themed, collection that could interchange straps. Since then, with the exception of the Santos, everything that has stayed around for a decent length of time has been 38mm or smaller. At the moment in addition to the Santos, I have two 36mm Nomos, Zenith A384 and Grand Seiko at 37mm, a 38mm field watch and a 38.5mm skin diver. Prior to the Pandemic, I would say the majority of my watches were 40mm or larger.

I'm not sure why my tastes changed so much, I did manage to lose some weight, but it didn't effect my wrist size. It's not like the Pandemic drove me towards wearing more elegant clothing either... but almost nothing being released bigger than 38mm is of much interest to me right now.

 

[Scuppers]

The watch itself is great. Which ref# is it?

25548

 

[RobinMA]

Gaining traction

 

[TheFoo]

From the 50’s to the 90’s, AP made very elegant, classic perpetual calendar watches that were different-enough alternatives to PP’s more minimal designs.

You can see how the cases and dials incrementally evolved over the decades.

So the question is, how the **** did they come up with this Code 11.59 travesty?

It has zero AP DNA in the case design—except the hidden octagonal middle case, which is RO-specific and has nothing to do with the company’s broader aesthetic tradition.

Same goes for the dial. They went for a super modern look and feel, which is not intrinsically bad, but which also has zero connection to the past. What a shame to sacrifice a storied lineage and history when AP is one of the few makers who truly has them.

It’s as if AP has decided that nothing before the RO really matters to their identity and aesthetic anymore, even when they venture outside the RO model line. Just a sad state of things.

 

[double00]

I forgot gesticulating was a word. I plan on using it on an annoying level this evening.

you could come up with a zany gesture to drive your point home

 

[TheFoo]

Faith validated!

Patek Geneva acknowledged the case finishing on my 5170 was indeed not quite right. They are sending it back to production for “return to stock” work (again)—that will either mean re-cutting the case to original spec or replacing it entirely.

One major advantage of a company that makes their own cases.

 

[RobinMA]

From the 50’s to the 90’s, AP made very elegant, classic perpetual calendar watches that were different-enough alternatives to PP’s more minimal designs.

View attachment 1745098
View attachment 1745099
View attachment 1745100
View attachment 1745101
View attachment 1745102
View attachment 1745103

You can see how the cases and dials incrementally evolved over the decades.

So the question is, how the **** did they come up with this Code 11.59 travesty?

View attachment 1745105

It has zero AP DNA in the case design—except the hidden octagonal middle case, which is RO-specific and has nothing to do with the company’s broader aesthetic tradition.

Same goes for the dial. They went for a super modern look and feel, which is not intrinsically bad, but which also has zero connection to the past. What a shame to sacrifice a storied lineage and history when AP is one of the few makers who truly has them.

It’s as if AP has decided that nothing before the RO really matters to their identity and aesthetic anymore, even when they venture outside the RO model line. Just a sad state of things.

nice watch but does not speak to me

 

[Scuppers]

From the 50’s to the 90’s, AP made very elegant, classic perpetual calendar watches that were different-enough alternatives to PP’s more minimal designs.

View attachment 1745098
View attachment 1745099
View attachment 1745100
View attachment 1745101
View attachment 1745102
View attachment 1745103

You can see how the cases and dials incrementally evolved over the decades.

So the question is, how the **** did they come up with this Code 11.59 travesty?

View attachment 1745105

It has zero AP DNA in the case design—except the hidden octagonal middle case, which is RO-specific and has nothing to do with the company’s broader aesthetic tradition.

Same goes for the dial. They went for a super modern look and feel, which is not intrinsically bad, but which also has zero connection to the past. What a shame to sacrifice a storied lineage and history when AP is one of the few makers who truly has them.

It’s as if AP has decided that nothing before the RO really matters to their identity and aesthetic anymore, even when they venture outside the RO model line. Just a sad state of things.

Ah, the 5516, a classic! First QP to display the year (well 9 of them did). Only took PP 25 years or so to follow suit with the 3450.

Yeah, that CODE is one hell-of-a-mess.

 

[Newcomer]

I appreciate the addition of the Code 11.59 to AP's lineup - nice to see a brand take risks - however, I dislike the addition of Code 11.59 when it is combined with the exclusion of all traditional watches.

That said, AP is connecting to a younger generation (again, the median age is like 27) and is selling all of its watches, and I'm a nerd who spends his free time discussing classical men's clothing and watches on styleforum.

 

[Newcomer]

I'd wear the hell out of this one:

I just wouldn't spend anywhere near $50,000 for the "opportunity" to do so.

 

[TheFoo]

I appreciate the addition of the Code 11.59 to AP's lineup - nice to see a brand take risks - however, I dislike the addition of Code 11.59 when it is combined with the exclusion of all traditional watches.

That said, AP is connecting to a younger generation (again, the median age is like 27) and is selling all of its watches, and I'm a nerd who spends his free time discussing classical men's clothing and watches on styleforum.

They didn’t take risks though. The Code 11.59 looks like it was designed by a focus group (“what do 20/30-something luxury consumers who are new to watches want in a watch?”).

The real risk would have been to do something classical, since they have lost all traction and credibility in that area.

 

[Scuppers]

They didn’t take risks though. The Code 11.59 looks like it was designed by a focus group.

The real risk would have been to do something classical, since they have lost all traction and credibility in that area.

Don’t forget the [RE]Master chrono.