The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Texasmade]

I think most of their mechanical watches use an in-house movement.

I know the Tank Americaine and Santos Dumont (manual wind version) don't use in-house.

 

[Dino944]

oops it’s a 42

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Ceramic - Farfetch

Shop Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Ceramic

www.farfetch.com

I've tried that watch in all steel. As mentioned, the bracelet was disappointing. I found it felt flimsy, and didn't feel as up to the task of daily wear as bracelets from other companies in the price range (or even less). Also the dial in both blue and in white were nothing special. I liked the over all design in photos, but my in person experience changed my opinion of the watch.

 

[Dino944]

Is an in-house movement preferable? Does it make the watch better, in some way?

I think @Phileas Fogg hit a few of the issues that resonate with some people. Inhouse movements have become one of the biggest issues of the last 20 years. Prior to that, it was rather commonplace for most companies even the most respected brands such as PP, AP, VC, Rolex, etc were using movements from other companies and finishing/modifying them to their own standards.

I've never had an issue with companies using movements/ebauches from respected brands such as JLC, F. Piguet, Piaget, Zenith, THA, Lemania etc. Where I have an issue is when the movement is rather ordinary and can be found it watches that are far cheaper. For example, years ago one Panerai used a Unitas movement that they hardly did anything with other than put it in a Panerai case, and charged $4,000....and IIRC the same movement was found in a $750 Glycine watch. Some could argue, that various movements like that are easy to service and get parts for so in a sense, there is some value to that. However, personally, if spending a several thousand dollars on a watch, I like the idea of my watch having a movement from a more respected manufacturer and not being found in far less expensive pieces. With an inhouse movement that is less of an issue, although entry level inhouse movements are not going to be as finely decorated as higher end watches in a company's line up.

In addition, it is important to remember some movements made outside were used in exceptional pieces due to their quality and expertise...Lemania was used in Patek's 3970 and 5070 and VC's 2 register Historique chronograph. And THA was used in Cartier's single pusher chronographer.

 

[Kaplan]

I prefer a non in-house movement - if it can get me a similarly rated accuracy at a lower cost. To me, at least some of the times, it seems like in-house is an excuse from companies to crank the price, presenting a narrative of being a more 'serious' watchmaker. I see no problem with getting an out-house movement, maybe modified for some specific needs or aesthetics.

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

I prefer an in-house movement for the reasons @Phileas Fogg and @Dino944 mentioned if I can be sure that service will be expeditious. This is where buying a watch that is part of a large conglomerate (Richemont, Swatch) is very helpful. I've had basic servicing of my Blancpain and my GO turn around really quickly. Not that I'm in a position to buy an expensive indie, but I would be concerned about how many watchmakers would be able to service that watch, much less conduct a detailed repair.

 

[sinnedk]

This one is.

Relaunching The Cartier Pasha

An '80s classic is reborn.

www.hodinkee.com

"At its launch, the new Pasha is being offered in two sizes, 41mm and 35mm, and the new generation of Pasha watches benefits from the caliber 1847 MC, a sturdy and more-than-serviceable in-house automatic caliber that we've seen used extensively already, for example in Santos."

Not too sure about the chrono.

The Pasha chronograph uses an inhouse movment also. This article is about the evolution of the caliber 1904, which is the basis for many of their movements including the chronograph. https://en.worldtempus.com/article/...ier-1904-mc--the-chameleon-calibre-19713.html

This is from an article by Hodinkee about the Santos Chronograph, which uses the same movement as the Pasha chronograph 1904 CH MC. "The movement powering the Santos Chronograph is the in-house caliber 1904 CH MC, an excellent self-winding column-wheel chronograph that has been part of the company's movement family since 2012." https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-santos-chronograph-hands-on

thank you both

 

[Newcomer]

This is absolutely absurd:

 

[mak1277]

This is absolutely absurd:

View attachment 1689793

"entry-level"

 

[Dino944]

I didn't like them even when they were selling at MSRP.

 

[classicalthunde]

I dig the more "traditional" FPJs like the Chronometre Souvrain and the Octa Lune, but am not a fan of the odd colors like lime or havana brown, nor am I a fan of the "parking meter" designs of the upper tier models

My main concern is what the servicing going to look like in 15-20-30 years from now when François-Paul has passed. I was under the impression that the desire of the firm is to stay independent and not be rolled into a conglomerate like Richemont.

At the mid-30K level (basically the new entry-point for FPJ since they are not even registering interest for the Bleu anymore) you have the big firms with big money behind them that aren't going anywhere like Patek, AP, Vacheron, ALS, etc.

 

[Texasmade]

Chanel has a minority stake in FPJ and I'm sure he's also trained up enough watchmakers to perform service on his movements.

I think future servicing is less of an issue with FPJ vs other small independents.

 

[Gerry Nelson]

FPJ is getting a lot of crap because of that I haven't seen one in person but the blue dial apparently only looks good when the light hits it just right.

I much prefer this blue I've wearing today:

 

[clee1982]

so to follow up with that tank solo (now tank must?)

didn't know they made a solar version

https://www.cartier.com/en-us/tank-must-watch-CRWSTA0060.html

"The light for the photovoltaic charging system reaches the movement through the dial – specifically, through the Roman numerals."

Additional Details: Photovoltaic charging system; expected life before requiring service, 16 years

though strap is non leather, some apple beats..., think I would want to change out that for her, too bad it's on stainless only, would think rosegold with brown strap would be good, but guess this solarbeat thing is only on stainless and with non leather strap...

AWOTW: Cartier Tank Must 'SolarBeat'

The definitive Jack Forster review.

www.hodinkee.com

Introducing: The SolarBeat Tank Must, The First-Ever Solar-Powered Cartier Watch

It's the dawn of a new era.

www.hodinkee.com

 

[BlairW]

Swapped out the blue for the black:

 

[Journeyman]

I think @Phileas Fogg hit a few of the issues that resonate with some people. Inhouse movements have become one of the biggest issues of the last 20 years. Prior to that, it was rather commonplace for most companies even the most respected brands such as PP, AP, VC, Rolex, etc were using movements from other companies and finishing/modifying them to their own standards.

Thank you to @Phileas Fogg @Dino944 @Kaplan @Ambulance Chaser and anyone else who chimed in, for your thoughtful responses.

I was actually being a bit tongue-in-cheek, as I already have strong views about the recent trend for in-house movements, so I was deliberately asking the question in the hope of eliciting some thoughtful responses - which it did!

Similar to Kaplan, I tend to prefer non-in-house movements or, at the very least, I am not swayed by in-house movements. This is particularly so with new ones that have been created due to the trend for in-house movements - many brands seem to think that they must use in-house movements so as to be thought of as a true, or proper, watch-maker and so they develop (or, probably more commonly, pay another company to develop) a movement.

Sites like Hodinkee have, I think, really been responsible for this push towards "in house = better/more authentic" and so a lot of people who are now collecting watches seem to parrot that line without really thinking about whether that is actually the case - and also without thinking about the implications of in-house movements.

As an example, I have a late 1990s Omega that has an ETA-based movement. It's a really reliable movement that has stood the test of time. I also have a Heuer Carrera with a Lemania chronograph movement. Once again, it's a reliable, commonly-used movement that has stood the test of time. Parts are commonly available and my local watchmaker can service the watches for a fraction of what Omega or TAG Heuer would charge - and in far less time, too. I'd far rather have a tried-and-tested movement that can be quickly and cheaply serviced and repaired, than a newly-developed movement without a time-tested reputation that has to go back to the dealer to service.

Of course, if I really, really liked a watch that had a recently-developed in-house movement, I may still buy it (although I tend to buy one watch per decade at my current rate, so that probably won't happen for a while!), but I certainly wouldn't buy it *because* it has an in-house movement. Rather, I'd buy it in spite of the in-house movement.

Anyway, that's just my view! Again, thanks for the responses.