The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[RSS]

I've been in New York a few times in the last month and I finally got to Cartier to judge the sizes of the Tank Américaine. The medium was too small, the large was too big. Also, it seemed to me a bit too formal for an everyday watch ... and that is my goal. So sadly Goldilocks did not find his watch that day. But, I surprised myself when I found an outstanding vintage IWC in 18KYG for less. Okay, it's not rectangular, it's round (34mm) ... but equally simple (hour, minute, and seconds only). It's not too attention grabbing or lacking in luster ... it's juuuust right.

 

[Darkside]

I share your views in that NOMOS is my favorite brand launch of the last thirty years. It is remarkable how designer Susanne Gunther and owner Roland Schwertner (previously a professional photographer) both defined the entire continuing brand design aesthetic, and created an iconic dress watch, the Tangente, in their first models intro.

NOMOS doesn’t get too much attention on this board, but is revered by many on the dedicated watch sites. Ben Clymer of Hodinkee has credited them with providing an accessible introduction to haute horology.

Nomos gets plenty of attention all over the internet, especially due to its pricepoint. I think many people, including myself, find that their straight lugs are a letdown and make the watches wear a lot larger than necessary.

I've been in New York a few times in the last month and I finally got to Cartier to judge the sizes of the Tank Américaine. The medium was too small, the large was too big. Also, it seemed to me a bit too formal for an everyday watch ... and that is my goal. So sadly Goldilocks did not find his watch that day. But, I surprised myself when I found an outstanding vintage IWC in 18KYG for less. Okay, it's not rectangular, it's round (34mm) ... but equally simple (hour, minute, and seconds only). It's not too attention grabbing or lacking in luster ... it's juuuust right.

This is one of the reasons I landed on the Santos over the millions of Tank models. I wanted a reasonably sized, versatile, mechanical watch.

 

[Texasmade]

Get the classic Tank LC in large size or the quartz Tank Must in L size.

 

[Dino944]

NOMOS doesn’t get too much attention on this board, but is revered by many on the dedicated watch sites.

Not really! They get plenty of attention here, and are frequently suggested when someone is looking to buy a particular type of watch. In addition, many people like me respect what they do and the quality they provide at a particular price point. However, for me and at least a few others here, the designs just do not speak to us. I waited until I had an opportunity to try a few on in person and they just are not for me. I don't like the case or lugs, and I find the dials too sterile. As I've said before, no watch can be everything to everyone, but Nomos does get a lot of respect on this thread.

 

[Viral]

Nomos is meh………IKEA design for watches

But if you like that’s all that matters - so do you, boo ?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

If you like Bauhaus, then Nomos has the watch for you. They have some appeal to me, but it’s a very specific design.

 

[Phoenician]

White gold Tonda 1950 for me today

 

[Neville Southall]

White gold Tonda 1950 for me today

View attachment 1671660 View attachment 1671661 View attachment 1671662

Beautiful movement finishing.

 

[物の哀れ]

I'll be honest - part of the appeal of Nomos is the limited appeal.

It's one of the few brands that I'm comfortable wearing in any company - that speaks to my personal hangups, but I own it.

 

[Journeyman]

Nomos gets plenty of attention all over the internet, especially due to its pricepoint. I think many people, including myself, find that their straight lugs are a letdown and make the watches wear a lot larger than necessary.

Yes, this is my issue with Nomos, too. I like the look of some of their models but they don't sit well on my wrist due to the thin, straight lugs.

...or the quartz Tank Must in L size.

What do people think about quartz watches here?

Not to single anyone out (sorry to quote you, Texasmade, but you were just the catalyst!), but in most watch discussion threads/discussion boards, people typically pooh-pooh quartz movements as cheap and unsophisticated, and go on and on about mechanical movements, and how the movements are so finely decorated, and how they are fantastically intricate, how it's great to wear a complicated little machine on your wrist and so on.

However, when sites like Hodinkee, or Instagram influencers, praise watches with quartz movements such as the new Cartier Must (which was originally a cut-price Cartier model and was looked-down upon) or the FP Journe Elegante, suddenly quite a lot of people throw their disdain for quartz movements out the window and prepare to hand over wads of cash for watches with quartz movements.

I suppose that really just shows that a lot of us are hypocrites at heart and that brand names and the "cool" factor matter more to us than we would really like to admit...

 

[Darkside]

Yes, this is my issue with Nomos, too. I like the look of some of their models but they don't sit well on my wrist due to the thin, straight lugs.



What do people think about quartz watches here?

Not to single anyone out (sorry to quote you, Texasmade, but you were just the catalyst!), but in most watch discussion threads/discussion boards, people typically pooh-pooh quartz movements as cheap and unsophisticated, and go on and on about mechanical movements, and how the movements are so finely decorated, and how they are fantastically intricate, how it's great to wear a complicated little machine on your wrist and so on.

However, when sites like Hodinkee, or Instagram influencers, praise watches with quartz movements such as the new Cartier Must (which was originally a cut-price Cartier model and was looked-down upon) or the FP Journe Elegante, suddenly quite a lot of people throw their disdain for quartz movements out the window and prepare to hand over wads of cash for watches with quartz movements.

I suppose that really just shows that a lot of us are hypocrites at heart and that brand names and the "cool" factor matter more to us than we would really like to admit...

I think the Tank Must is getting a pass because the solar aspect of it is seen as a “complication” and therefore it is more interesting than a Timex quartz movement.

Personally, if I’m paying more than 1-2k$ for a watch I want to see a smooth sweeping seconds hand.

 

[Journeyman]

I think the Tank Must is getting a pass because the solar aspect of it is seen as a “complication” and therefore it is more interesting than a Timex quartz movement.

That may be the case. However, what I find alternately irritating and amusing about the "quartz is bad, but in this *particular* case..." situation is that both the Cartier's solar-panel dial, and the FP Journe's "sleep feature" were introduced by Seiko in their watches a couple of decades ago or more. My wife has a Seiko with a solar panel dial that she bought in Tokyo over a decade ago and it's still going strong.

So it seems that when a Japanese brand is the first to do it, people don't think it at all remarkable, generally regard it as "just a quartz watch" and won't pay any more than a few hundred dollars for it. However, when Euro brands copy those features, the blogosphere and Instagram influencers ooh and aah about it, people lap it up and are willing to pay thousands of dollars more (many, many thousands more, in the case of FP Journe).

On the one hand, I find it frustrating, but on the other hand, it's psychologically interesting.

 

[scurvyfreedman]

I don't think quartz watches are interesting because of the lack of craft. I pay for the anachronism of a mechanical movement, the old world assembly and finishing by hand. To me a watch is its movement. I like watches for their art not their science. But, I recognize that people have different interests in their luxury goods. If someone else wears a quartz watch, that's their choice. I don't look down on it. Most people I know wear smart watches now anyway and if the goal is to measure the exact time, there is no other choice.

 

[Newcomer]

A bit of a bummer! Had really, really been enjoying my OF, but noticed the second hand has been acting wonky. Has anyone seen anything like this? Start paying attention at the 35 second mark. The second hand sweeps from 0-35 seconds, and then stutters all the way from 35-60 seconds. I uploaded the following video to Vimeo:

 

[Dino944]

What do people think about quartz watches here?

Not to single anyone out (sorry to quote you, Texasmade, but you were just the catalyst!), but in most watch discussion threads/discussion boards, people typically pooh-pooh quartz movements as cheap and unsophisticated, and go on and on about mechanical movements, and how the movements are so finely decorated, and how they are fantastically intricate, how it's great to wear a complicated little machine on your wrist and so on.

However, when sites like Hodinkee, or Instagram influencers, praise watches with quartz movements such as the new Cartier Must (which was originally a cut-price Cartier model and was looked-down upon) or the FP Journe Elegante, suddenly quite a lot of people throw their disdain for quartz movements out the window and prepare to hand over wads of cash for watches with quartz movements.

I suppose that really just shows that a lot of us are hypocrites at heart and that brand names and the "cool" factor matter more to us than we would really like to admit...

Well, most quartz movements are nothing special. Most times if given the option, watch enthusiasts will choose the automatic over the quartz model. Whether or not you like the Nautilus or RO, if given a choice between a quartz version from the 1980s and an automatic one, I'm sure most of us will choose the automatic.

One of the most respected and interesting quartz watches, is the old Rolex Oysterquartz. As I've mentioned here before, in the late 70's early 80's it was their most advanced an top of the line watch. They spent a tremendous amount of money perfecting 5035 caliber, which actually had 11 jewels. The stainless steel Oysterquartz was the first steel Rolex to have a sapphire synthetic crystal, it was more antimagnetic than the famous Milgauss, and as one would expect it was highly accurate. It was the first steel Rolex to have have solid bracelet links, and it was given a special case and bracelet. In the early 1980's its MSRP was higher than that of a steel Daytona, GMT Master or Submariner Date. However, as interest in mechanical watches was reignited, the Oysterquartz was no longer the focus of their R&D, although it remained in production until around 2004.

While I prefer automatic or manual wind watches, it is nice to have a good quartz watch like an Oysterquartz that if one is in a hurry, you can grab it and go without having to set the time even if you haven't worn it in weeks or even months (although one may have to adjust the date).