The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Nickd]

What are people's thoughts on this Patek? It's a 1974 Ref. 3602. It is a wildly unfashionable style at the moment with its hobnail/clous de Paris bezel and all-gold case and dial on a glossy black strap. For me it has a lot of charm, and because it's an unpopular model I think I could get one for about £6-7k. I can see it on the wrist of a Japanese businessman in booming 1970s Tokyo, or a foreign financier hobnobbing in the heyday of the Hong Kong Club. I'd be tempted to put it on a matte olive green strap to dress it down a bit and wear it with anything.

People often criticise the hobnail as "not being very Patek" because it goes against the Bauhaus origins of the Calatrava and was supposedly only introduced in 1973. I've seen this repeated in this thread a few times even. My understanding is that actually there was variant of the original 1932 Ref. 96, called the 96D, which was released in 1934 and had a hobnail bezel (the "D" standing for décor). I've never been able to find a photo though - I wonder if anyone else has? In any case, for me the hobnail has been one of the signature features of Pateks for at least 50 years, and I have no interest in slavish adherence to Bauhaus functionalist principles anyway, particularly for gold watches, which are fundamentally superfluous pieces of decorative jewellery.

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I love it, and if I could find one similar, that wasn’t tiny for around £6k I’d be pretty happy.

 

[New Shoes1]

Was browsing another site and saw these pictures that show the differences between the Doxa Sub 300 and 300T. They show the greater flare on the 300T and also the impact of the first three "beads of rice" not articulating on the 300T end link. They also show how awesome these watches look today with a design that has not changed much in the past 50-plus years.

 

[pmeis]

Was browsing another site and saw these pictures that show the differences between the Doxa Sub 300 and 300T. They show the greater flare on the 300T and also the impact of the first three "beads of rice" not articulating on the 300T end link. They also show how awesome these watches look today with a design that has not changed much in the past 50-plus years.

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That wrist seems to be pretty small, I think on a bit larger of a wrist, the way the bracelet flares out wouldn’t be that big of a deal If any.

 

[am55]

What are people's thoughts on this Patek? It's a 1974 Ref. 3602. It is a wildly unfashionable style at the moment with its hobnail/clous de Paris bezel and all-gold case and dial on a glossy black strap. For me it has a lot of charm, and because it's an unpopular model I think I could get one for about £6-7k. I can see it on the wrist of a Japanese businessman in booming 1970s Tokyo, or a foreign financier hobnobbing in the heyday of the Hong Kong Club. I'd be tempted to put it on a matte olive green strap to dress it down a bit and wear it with anything.

People often criticise the hobnail as "not being very Patek" because it goes against the Bauhaus origins of the Calatrava and was supposedly only introduced in 1973. I've seen this repeated in this thread a few times even. My understanding is that actually there was variant of the original 1932 Ref. 96, called the 96D, which was released in 1934 and had a hobnail bezel (the "D" standing for décor). I've never been able to find a photo though - I wonder if anyone else has? In any case, for me the hobnail has been one of the signature features of Pateks for at least 50 years, and I have no interest in slavish adherence to Bauhaus functionalist principles anyway, particularly for gold watches, which are fundamentally superfluous pieces of decorative jewellery.

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This is the quintessential model for this idea in my mind albeit with dauphine hands:

The idea has been ruined by the plethora of tone on tone models from Bulova to Rolex, but do you really care? In the flesh these things look quite unique.

 

[New Shoes1]

That wrist seems to be pretty small, I think on a bit larger of a wrist, the way the bracelet flares out wouldn’t be that big of a deal If any.

For me, the flare out is more about aesthetics. I don't like how it flares out and has that gap between the lugs and the bracelet.

Here's a picture of the same watch from before on the 1200T bracelet, which I think looks much better.

I'll also agree that the end link issue is likely a non-issue for larger wristed folks. I'm probably right on that borderline wrist-wise where the bracelet seems to veer straight down from the fixed beads of the end links at a strange angle, so I'm hesitating and proceeding cautiously.

 

[pmeis]

For me, the flare out is more about aesthetics. I don't like how it flares out and has that gap between the lugs and the bracelet.

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Here's a picture of the same watch from before on the 1200T bracelet, which I think looks much better.




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I'll also agree that the end link issue is likely a non-issue for larger wristed folks. I'm probably right on that borderline wrist-wise where the bracelet seems to veer straight down from the fixed beads of the end links at a strange angle, so I'm hesitating and proceeding cautiously.

I still kick myself a bit about not buying a vintage Searambler from a guy at a Chicago Redbar meetup. He had it on this well worn brown leather NATO, it just looked so cool and wore so well. I think he only wanted like $1400 for it, which at the time was about the going rate even for older ones. I hit him up like 3 months later and he told me that he had just sold it the week before.

 

[NakedYoga]

By a strange coincidence, I have the Doxa sub 300 in orange arriving tomorrow. I also have the Synchron Military, which shares the same case as an older version of the 300T. And, also having an Oris Aquis, here is what I can share (based on the Synchron Military and my research):

- It wears much smaller than the Oris Aquis. One of the things I like best about it is the 42.5 mm cushion case with the much smaller bezel and dial (I believe the dial is approximately 28 mm in diameter). Ridiculously comfortable and masculine in appearance without looking like a hockey puck on your wrist. I really like the chunkiness of this one in the 42 mm case size.

- Do your research on the current version of the 300T. The bracelet flares out significantly, is chunkier than the 300 bracelet and has a large ratchet clasp. In researching it and reading about people's experiences with it, the bracelet is pretty universally panned and there are lots of posts about trying to find alternative bracelets that fit the 300T case, such as a 1200T bracelet or using the 300T end links with a 300 bracelet.

- The beads of rice for the 300T end links are fixed (they do not articulate) and extend significantly beyond the lugs, which increases the lug to lug width and can result in a significant gap and weird angle for the bracelet as it diverges from the end links. Again, lots of posts about people filing those down or other hacks that should not be necessary on a $2K watch.

- I've got in the back of my mind that I want an aqua marine 300T to go along with the 300 professional arriving tomorrow, but the bracelet and end link issues have given me enough pause that I've got that on the back burner for now. I may eventually get one, but, if I do, it will be knowing that I'll probably wear it on an Erika's Original or rubber strap 90% of the time.

Best of luck to you.

Interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't come across this issue, but I didn't really have a reason to look. I found a thread on WUS discussing the problem as well as what appears to be an acceptable DIY solution of using a Dremel or file/sandpaper to shave down part of the first set of beads of rice... https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/fixing-the-doxa-300t-bracelet-problem.5285864/

I don't have particularly large wrists... maybe 6.75", but even before hearing about this I envisioned wearing it mostly on some other kind of strap (not the bright orange one you can get in lieu of the bracelet--the orange dial is enough). I really wish I could try one on.

Regarding wanting an Aquamarine 300T to go with the Professional 300... why not just get an Aquamarine 300 instead of the T?

 

[New Shoes1]

I still kick myself a bit about not buying a vintage Searambler from a guy at a Chicago Redbar meetup. He had it on this well worn brown leather NATO, it just looked so cool and wore so well. I think he only wanted like $1400 for it, which at the time was about the going rate even for older ones. I hit him up like 3 months later and he told me that he had just sold it the week before.

That sucks. He who hesitates . . .

 

[New Shoes1]

Interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't come across this issue, but I didn't really have a reason to look. I found a thread on WUS discussing the problem as well as what appears to be an acceptable DIY solution of using a Dremel or file/sandpaper to shave down part of the first set of beads of rice... https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/fixing-the-doxa-300t-bracelet-problem.5285864/

I don't have particularly large wrists... maybe 6.75", but even before hearing about this I envisioned wearing it mostly on some other kind of strap (not the bright orange one you can get in lieu of the bracelet--the orange dial is enough). I really wish I could try one on.

Regarding wanting an Aquamarine 300T to go with the Professional 300... why not just get an Aquamarine 300 instead of the T?

I might or I might simply decide the bracelet issue isn't that important because of how good the watch looks on straps. I'll live with the 300 Professional for a while and see where it leads me, but, ultimately, I'd kind of like one of each.

And the 300T does look pretty awesome on a strap (not my picture):

 

[Drek Galloche]

.

 

[Dino944]

Was browsing another site and saw these pictures that show the differences between the Doxa Sub 300 and 300T. They show the greater flare on the 300T and also the impact of the first three "beads of rice" not articulating on the 300T end link. They also show how awesome these watches look today with a design that has not changed much in the past 50-plus years.

View attachment 1645709

View attachment 1645712

Both of my friends that have one, have the 300T. Neither has complained about the bracelet and the non-articulating first links, but they have large wrists so it's probably not an issue for them.

It's also interesting to see in the first photo the domed crystal of the 300. I hadn't noticed that previously. Looking forward to seeing wrist shots of yours soon.

 

[New Shoes1]

Both of my friends that have one, have the 300T. Neither has complained about the bracelet and the non-articulating first links, but they have large wrists so it's probably not an issue for them.

It's also interesting to see in the first photo the domed crystal of the 300. I hadn't noticed that previously. Looking forward to seeing wrist shots of yours soon.

It's incredible the amount of information complied on Doxa subs by fans. From what I understand, the current 300T with this bracelet, clasp and end link configuration started in roughly 2019. Prior to that, the "Marei era" 300T had normal end links, bracelet and clasp. It may be that your friends have the prior version or simply don't have the small wrist problem.

I'm looking forward to trying on the 300 as it shares the same case diameter and lug to lug as the 300T, but is much thinner. Will post pictures once I get the bracelet sized.

 

[pmeis]

As mentioned yesterday, had some quick work to do in the city and then was able to do a bit of in person watch browsing that outside of a trip to the Cartier boutique, I hadn't really done since right before the pandemic started. I hit up the Worn & Wound Pop Up shop, Watches of Switzerland (SoHo), one of the Tourneaus and stopped in a few brand boutiqes. Had a very attentive saleswoman at WoS who I think would have shown me anything in the store I wanted to see for as long as I wanted, but I wasn't really motivated by much of what I saw to try on and I didn't really want to waste her time. Overall, was a nice day to be in the city as the temp hovered under 80.Highlight might have been the dynamite egg sandwich and hash brown from Egg Shop which was around the corner from the Pop Up. While I didn't buy any watches, I did by a couple knick-knacks from the Pop Up shop that I had previously contemplated buying. Fun day overall!

Anyway, here is a random assortment of some crappy phone pics:

 

[Drek Galloche]

Seiko GS psoriasis dial is the best.
Ingenious and highly artistic Japanese rendition of unfrotunate skin disease.

 

[New Shoes1]

As mentioned yesterday, had some quick work to do in the city and then was able to do a bit of in person watch browsing that outside of a trip to the Cartier boutique, I hadn't really done since right before the pandemic started. I hit up the Worn & Wound Pop Up shop, Watches of Switzerland (SoHo), one of the Tourneaus and stopped in a few brand boutiqes. Had a very attentive saleswoman at WoS who I think would have shown me anything in the store I wanted to see for as long as I wanted, but I wasn't really motivated by much of what I saw to try on and I didn't really want to waste her time. Overall, was a nice day to be in the city as the temp hovered under 80.Highlight might have been the dynamite egg sandwich and hash brown from Egg Shop which was around the corner from the Pop Up. While I didn't buy any watches, I did by a couple knick-knacks from the Pop Up shop that I had previously contemplated buying. Fun day overall!

Anyway, here is a random assortment of some crappy phone pics:

What did you think of the anOrdain Model 1? Is the dial and finishing as nice as I keep hearing it is?