The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[chocomallo]

If you took it to another country’s service center, then that would explain a lot of the difference. Henri Stern is a huge operation, reflecting the size of the US market. They are supposed to do 90% of what Geneva can do, excepting vintage pieces and grand complications.

Hence, they do not make it easy to get your watch to Geneva. Gatekeeping is their job.

That's a bummer. Maybe you could try a service center in a different country to bypass them. That might be worth if that would ensure Patek does the repair. Have you considered it?

 

[chocomallo]

No, unlike certain others, I don’t play that game ...

Guilty as charged.

 

[TheFoo]

That's a bummer. Maybe you could try a service center in a different country to bypass them. That might be worth if that would ensure Patek does the repair. Have you considered it?

Not really. I mean, the issue with Patek—and really any manufacturer—is that you have very little control over what they do. They will tell you what your options are and that’s that. There is a high probability I could spend months going back and forth with Geneva about how to handle my watch, yet wind up with no great solution.

If it were just scratches, it would be no big deal. As in your case. Very straightforward. In my case, we are talking about rebuilding a bezel just because the edge is a bit rounded off, when in their book a polish with the lapping machine is just as correct and less onerous. I have never seen or heard of them restoring a lost edge. In fact, most independents won’t or can’t do it either. Takes a real artist catering to neurotic fanatics.

 

[chocomallo]

Not really. I mean, the issue with Patek—and really any manufacturer—is that you have very little control over what they do. They will tell you what your options are and that’s that. There is a high probability I could spend months going back and forth with Geneva about how to handle my watch, yet wind up with no great solution.

If it were just scratches, it would be no big deal. As in your case. Very straightforward. In my case, we are talking about rebuilding a bezel just because the edge is a bit rounded off, when in their book a polish with the lapping machine is just as correct and less onerous. I have never seen or heard of them restoring a lost edge. In fact, most independents won’t or can’t do it either. Takes a real artist.

If there was someone experienced in welding on the thread, hopefully they will chime in.

But my speculation as to why Patek won't weld back up an edge like in your case is that the amount of material that needs to be added back is much larger. So it would be difficult to add that much material in a uniform fashion with the tiny laser that is normally used. But to weld on larger deposits of material would require a more powerful laser or other method of welding which would likely warp the case due to the extra heat. Just a guess. I don't know that much about welding.

 

[TheFoo]

If there was someone experienced in welding on the thread, hopefully they will chime in.

But my speculation as to why Patek won't weld back up an edge like in your case is that the amount of material that needs to be added back is much larger. So it would be difficult to add that much material in a uniform fashion with the tiny laser that is normally used. But to weld on larger deposits of material would require a more powerful laser or other method of welding which would likely warp the case due to the extra heat. Just a guess. I don't know that much about welding.

Doesn’t work like that. I’ve seen how this is done in other instances. They would just do more welds, not increase their size.

Patek promises to keep your watch running forever (as long as you pay for it). They do NOT promise to make your watch like new. The ability to do so is relatively recently developed and is not within the core competency of the manufacturers. Also, there is some controversy over whether it should be done at all. Patek and other makers don’t necessarily want a bunch of used watches floating around that are being passed off as new or never worn.

 

[chocomallo]

Doesn’t work like that. I’ve seen how this is done in other instances. They would just do more welds, not increase their size.

Patek promises to keep your watch running forever (as long as you pay for it). They do NOT promise to make your watch like new. The ability to do so is relatively recently developed and is not within the core competency of the manufacturers. Also, there is some controversy over whether it should be done at all. Patek and other makers don’t necessarily want a bunch of used watches floating around that are being passed off as new or never worn.

That makes sense. I was thinking more along the lines of needing to deposit multiple layers of welds to build up enough thickness on the bezel to get back to the pre-polished thickness. And that might risk some inconsistency. Like I said, I don't know much about welding.

Hopefully Patek or one of the other repair shops you are checking with give you the result you are looking for. I appreciated your earlier post that kicked this off about the case construction. I had assumed the bezel was a separate piece so that was interesting to learn. I was able to dig up a picture on the web of a 5296 with the case back removed and was surprised how thin the case was. Keep us posted on what happens. I know the watch is sentimental to you so I understand your anguish.

 

[TheFoo]

That makes sense. I was thinking more along the lines of needing to deposit multiple layers of welds to build up enough thickness on the bezel to get back to the pre-polished thickness. And that might risk some inconsistency. Like I said, I don't know much about welding.

Hopefully Patek or one of the other repair shops you are checking with give you the result you are looking for. I appreciated your earlier post that kicked this off about the case construction. I had assumed the bezel was a separate piece so that was interesting to learn. I was able to dig up a picture on the web of a 5296 with the case back removed and was surprised how thin the case was. Keep us posted on what happens. I know the watch is sentimental to you so I understand your anguish.

Thanks. Will get worked out one way or another.

 

[chocomallo]

Thanks. Will get worked out one way or another.

Speaking of Patek cases, where did you land on that 5170? Recut or no recut?

 

[TheFoo]

Speaking of Patek cases, where did you land on that 5170? Recut or no recut?

AD is asking Patek.

Apparently there is a level of hand polishing reserved for “return to stock” orders from ADs not available to customers when having their watches serviced. This is less invasive than re-cutting the case but supposedly leaves the case as new (since they do the same sort of polish before shipping watches out to the ADs in the first place). But I dunno. All sounds like hocus pocus BS after a certain point.

 

[Thrift Vader]

If there was someone experienced in welding on the thread, hopefully they will chime in.

But my speculation as to why Patek won't weld back up an edge like in your case is that the amount of material that needs to be added back is much larger. So it would be difficult to add that much material in a uniform fashion with the tiny laser that is normally used. But to weld on larger deposits of material would require a more powerful laser or other method of welding which would likely warp the case due to the extra heat. Just a guess. I don't know that much about welding.

I'm not an experienced welder, but have worked a bit with Mig and Tig, oh yeah and brazing.

@TheFoo 's watch has me perplexed. I thought white gold was a plating process. I didn't know "Solid white gold" was a real thing. . . is it?
I can't imagine he rounded an edge without going through the plating. Wouldn't the actual base of the case be Bronze or something like that? The base is Gold?
White gold? Or yellow gold then plated???? (brain imploding at this point)
At the moment i am imagining that they would have to add material of the base metal then re-plate it?
How are they going to add the material? With a metal filler rod? What method?
So they add material. then re-cut the edge and re-plate it?
Laser brazing?
Aaaargh, dammit @TheFoo why do you have to be this way?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

White gold:

What is white gold? | U.S. Geological Survey

White gold was originally developed to imitate platinum (a naturally white metal). White gold is usually an alloy containing about 75% gold and about 25% nickel and zinc. If stamped 18 karat, it would be 75% pure gold.

www.usgs.gov

 

[TheFoo]

I'm not an experienced welder, but have worked a bit with Mig and Tig, oh yeah and brazing.

@TheFoo 's watch has me perplexed. I thought white gold was a plating process. I didn't know "Solid white gold" was a real thing. . . is it?
I can't imagine he rounded an edge without going through the plating. Wouldn't the actual base of the case be Bronze or something like that? The base is Gold?
White gold? Or yellow gold then plated???? (brain imploding at this point)
At the moment i am imagining that they would have to add material of the base metal then re-plate it?
How are they going to add the material? With a metal filler rod? What method?
So they add material. then re-cut the edge and re-plate it?
Laser brazing?
Aaaargh, dammit @TheFoo why do you have to be this way?

It is solid white gold, not plating. 18K white gold is an alloy of 75% gold and 25% other metal to make it white. Usually, this other metal is nickel, silver, and/or palladium. Some white gold is plated with rhodium to make it whiter. However, Patek’s white gold is unplated.

They add material using a laser welder, which creates tiny welds that don’t damage the surrounding area. After welding enough material to exceed the height of the surrounding, undamaged surface, the surface is polished until that excess material is completely flush.

 

[Thrift Vader]

Thanks for that. Brain hurt is lessened.
I assumed white gold was all rhodium plating. (I'm a poor boy)

So they are going to melt some white gold filler rod onto it then recut?

 

[TheFoo]

Thanks for that. Brain hurt is lessened.
I assumed white gold was all rhodium plating. (I'm a poor boy)

So they are going to melt some gold filler rod onto it then recut?

They use gold wire matching the original alloy. After filling in any low areas, they then polish down to make everything smooth. If a flat, straight area, they would use a lapping machine to cut a new edge.

 

[Thrift Vader]

They use gold wire matching the original alloy. After filling in any low areas, they then polish down to make everything smooth. If a flat, straight area, they would use a lapping machine to cut a new edge.

So. . . . Are they going to do this for you or not?
I mean, if you are going to pay, why not?

Although, I agree with @9thsymph just enjoy it as is. you have made it yours.
It has character now.