The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Dino944]

I’m going to try and develop a relationship with an AD who has been very helpful in times I’ve dropped in. Any recs for starting and showing them I’m serious about sticking with them? Any realistic expectation of discussing Rolex SS Daytonas or GMTs? Thanks.

Keep buying from them. That's really the only way to show them you are serious and sticking with them. You can certainly discuss Daytonas and GMTs...just be prepared to wait, and wait, and wait.

 

[KevM]

Keep buying from them. That's really the only way to show them you are serious and sticking with them. You can certainly discuss Daytonas and GMTs...just be prepared to wait, and wait, and wait.

Thanks. Makes sense.

 

[Andy57]

was hoping for cheaper... guess i‘ll wait...

The longer you wait the more the likelihood that the price of what you want will increase. Prices rarely go down.

 

[clee1982]

It’s RL watch hoping no one bites, if it indeed went up significantly then so be it...

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

Keep buying from them. That's really the only way to show them you are serious and sticking with them. You can certainly discuss Daytonas and GMTs...just be prepared to wait, and wait, and wait.

In particular, buy a less in-demand watch like the Cellini. You do your AD a favor, he’ll do a favor for you. An EWC salesman told me he knows of many people who spend thousands on watches they don’t really want to gain the right to buy a watch they do really want. Seems silly to me, but that’s how the game is played.

@Dino944: How did you like the Octo Finissimo, particularly compared to your 15202?

 

[Dino944]

In particular, buy a less in-demand watch like the Cellini. You do your AD a favor, he’ll do a favor for you. An EWC salesman told me he knows of many people who spend thousands on watches they don’t really want to gain the right to buy a watch they do really want. Seems silly to me, but that’s how the game is played.

@Dino944: How did you like the Octo Finissimo, particularly compared to your 15202?

I like the Octo Finissimo a lot, and the case shape is really interesting. Its very different from the RO. The 15202 is APs ultrathin, but the Octo ultra thin is considerably thinner. It feels almost weightless compared to the RO especially in titanium. Although, the AP is only 1mm smaller in diamater, the Octo Finissimo wears much larger (maybe due to its more squared design taking into account its lugs, and its thinness).

I like the Octo in steel and also in titanium, but I didn't like the ceramic. I think the Octo looks far better on a strap. To my eye, the Octo loses some of definition of the case shape and lugs when its on a bracelet. I like the AP bracelet far more than the Octo bracelet. Now granted I didn't have the Octo's bracelet sized to see how it feels, but I find it looks a bit generic. I'd probably buy it on the bracelet just to have the option of a bracelet or a strap.

As far as the dial goes, I like the AP dial, markers and hands far more than those of the Octo. Although, if one is getting the skeleton Octo, that evens the playing field in terms of dials and hands.

If there were areas of the 2 watches you wanted me to touch upon that I missed, just let me know. Overall, the Octo is a watch I would be very happy to own in addition to a RO, but not instead of a RO.

 

[Rugger]

What would the panerai equivalent be of the rolex sub date? In terms of how it might be the baseline standard, and would have a wide range of uses/versatility etc? Is there a model that's the "this should be your first pan"?

 

[Dino944]

In particular, buy a less in-demand watch like the Cellini. You do your AD a favor, he’ll do a favor for you. An EWC salesman told me he knows of many people who spend thousands on watches they don’t really want to gain the right to buy a watch they do really want. Seems silly to me, but that’s how the game is played.

A few of the guys there are ok, but I don't agree with everything they say, not to mention, I often find their definition of like new condition and mine are drastically different.

As for spending thousands on watches I don't want to gain the right to buy a watch I do want....I probably don't really want to do business with a place that operates like that. I'd rather see them choke on a lot of lousy inventory when times are slow, and maybe they will lose their contract with various companies or go under. Years ago, I wanted a steel Daytona. An AD near me had one but when the sticker was $4,350 they wanted me to spend $7,500 or buy the Daytona and a BP that I didn't want. I walked and got the watch at list price a few months later from another AD. I'd have felt like an idiot spending over list or buying a BP I had no interest in just to get the Daytona at list. Today, that store has since lost its contracts with Rolex, IWC, Cartier, JLC, AP, Chopard, and a few others.

 

[bespoken pa]

A few of the guys there are ok, but I don't agree with everything they say, not to mention, I often find their definition of like new condition and mine are drastically different.

As for spending thousands on watches I don't want to gain the right to buy a watch I do want....I probably don't really want to do business with a place that operates like that. I'd rather see them choke on a lot of lousy inventory when times are slow, and maybe they will lose their contract with various companies or go under. Years ago, I wanted a steel Daytona. An AD near me had one but when the sticker was $4,350 they wanted me to spend $7,500 or buy the Daytona and a BP that I didn't want. I walked and got the watch at list price a few months later from another AD. I'd have felt like an idiot spending over list or buying a BP I had no interest in just to get the Daytona at list. Today, that store has since lost its contracts with Rolex, IWC, Cartier, JLC, AP, Chopard, and a few others.

The economics of making purchases for things you don't want just to get to something you do, doesn't make sense on this level. You're basically spending resale anyway. I've listened to one braggard after another talk about I got x model at list...sure after you spent 20k on yurman. These practices will eventually catch up to some retailers.

 

[Dino944]

The economics of making purchases for things you don't want just get to something you doesn't make sense on this level. You're not basically spending resale anyway. I've listened to one braggard after another talk about I got x model at list...sure after you spent 20k on yurman. These practices will eventually catch up to some retailers.

Exactly! Not to mention, why have a collection of watches or jewelry that you and your wife don't really want just to get a piece or two that you do want? I also wouldn't want to waste my time and go through the hassle of trying to get rid of a bunch of items my wife and I don't want by trying to resell them at a loss online or at gray dealers.

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

Thanks for your thoughts on the Octo, @Dino944. My request for a comparison with the 15202 was a bit unfair considering that the 15202 is at least 3x as expensive (in the real world, not at retail), but it's good to know that you think the Octo is a nice watch on its own merits. Like you, I find it to wear a bit big due to its shape and I'm still sorting out whether I'm okay with that on my sub-7" wrist. Because of its size, I prefer it on the bracelet which gives it a sportier look, as I like my dress watches to be 39 mm or smaller.

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

What would the panerai equivalent be of the rolex sub date? In terms of how it might be the baseline standard, and would have a wide range of uses/versatility etc? Is there a model that's the "this should be your first pan"?

As with all watches, buy the model you like rather than the model that other people think best represents the brand. That said, the most iconic Panerai is probably any 44 mm Luminor with a black sandwich dial and no seconds. In Panerai's case, iconic conflicts with versatile; this watch isn't particularly versatile unless you spend most days in short sleeves. In my view, the most versatile Panerai, and one of the few I would consider buying, is the new 38 mm Luminor Due. It is slim enough to fit easily under a long sleeve and doesn't look silly with a suit. Most Paneristis would probably scoff at its smaller size and 30 m water resistance. YMMV.

 

[bespoken pa]

That is correct....a pam with 30 meters of water resistance makes 0 sense to me.

 

[jischwar]

That is correct....a pam with 30 meters of water resistance makes 0 sense to me.

Agreed, it was not designed to fit under a shirt cuff. I wear mine the most in the summer to the pool/beach and not to the office.

 

[Lumaca]

I just feel that the 30 m WR means that the crown guard is useless. The panerai equivalent of non-working pockets on women jeans.

As with all watches, buy the model you like rather than the model that other people think best represents the brand. That said, the most iconic Panerai is probably any 44 mm Luminor with a black sandwich dial and no seconds. In Panerai's case, iconic conflicts with versatile; this watch isn't particularly versatile unless you spend most days in short sleeves. In my view, the most versatile Panerai, and one of the few I would consider buying, is the new 38 mm Luminor Due. It is slim enough to fit easily under a long sleeve and doesn't look silly with a suit. Most Paneristis would probably scoff at its smaller size and 30 m water resistance. YMMV.