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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

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  1. roomiller

    roomiller Senior member

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    So you're saying you aren't concerned with the aerodynamics of your watch?



    In regards to Montblanc I tend to agree with the consensus here. Their entire line is a bit of mess, but some of the watches stand out to me - the world time watch that Hodinkee did a hands on with a few months back struck me as a fun and interesting watch. Though you have to admire their desire to actually build high quality watches; they have all the brand recognition necessary to simply sell overpriced fashion watches, yet they don't.

    I guess what I'm getting at is that the average high-end watch purchaser is not at all like the people who frequent this thread. Montblanc could have made boatloads on crap watches without Minerva, yet they chose to go the respectable route.

    If we want to focus on the sins of Richemont watchmakers, I think we're focusing on the wrong brands in their umbrella.
     
  2. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    Interesting. I didn't know about this. It's an elegant solution for sure. A perpetual shoehorned into a dress watch aesthetic.
     
  3. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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    I wish I could tell you why Lange has never really clicked with me, but I'm not sure how to explain it. My tastes just run more toward other watches, I guess.

    The Zeitwerk is pretty cool ... probably my current "favorite" of theirs.

    And hey, it's not like I have never changed my mind about a brand. But sitting here in 2016, I don't see myself ever spending a pile of hard-earned $$$ on one.
     
  4. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    @mafoofan, I saw that you are selling your Tank. Any concrete reasons? Or what are you consolidating your collection for (obviously not a L1)?

    Just to be clear, I'm not an e-stalker, but you do use the same on-line handle on a well-known watch forum...
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. roomiller

    roomiller Senior member

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    Offtopic: I'm glad to see everyone here is having as busy a Thursday as I am
     
  6. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    Regarding the deutsche hockey puck discussion, I like the wrist presence of a Lange (at least when I tried them on in the shop). Of course a Lange 1 or an 1815 will not look as sleek compared with a Calavatra, but I think they fulfill slightly different functions or needs. Besides, categories such as "sport" or "dress" watch are overly restrictive, in my opinion, and not all watches should be labelled into one or the other.

    Personally, I like the 1815 series a lot and have strongly considered one as my next piece.
     
  7. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    Scalloped reminds me of the Fender Stratocaster Yngiew Malmsteen signature model.


    [​IMG]
     
  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Loved that particular Tank. Would recommend it any day. Very under the radar and underappreciated.

    Just wanted something else even more, that's all.


    Eh. Not sure I can get behind the notion of a business casual or cocktail attire watch.


    Yeah, but those serve a purpose.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  9. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    What better way to show that you identify with the horological lifestyle and high fashion than a Hodinkee Genta (licensed?) Drakes hank. Blimey, who buys this stuff?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2016
  10. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

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    At least 150 people as it's now sold out. [​IMG] If you wear pocket squares and are a "watch guy" I can see an interest. I guess I'd actually want to own one of the Genta designs on the pocket square though.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. concealed

    concealed Senior member

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    Grabbed a pre-owned Black Bay Black for an even $2k. Pics next week.
     
    6 people like this.
  12. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    It isn't really fair to compare time only pieces or ultra thin watches to a Lange 1. If one wants a thin time only watch, or if that is how one in categorizing a true dress watch well then that's fine, but then one should be comparing a time only Lange to time only PPs, APs, and VCs. Then at least you are comparing apples to apples.

    While I agree in general Lange's peers are Patek, VC, AP etc. I still don't think there is a Patek, VC, or AP that has as unique of a the design as an L1, and I don't see it as having peers. Sure you can find a Patek, VC, or AP with a date, a power reserve, a subdial for seconds...but most are larger or thicker.

    VC has Traditionelle ref 85290 Day Date 41 mm case and 10.65 mm thick. Nice but a bit dull. They have been offering this dial layout for years but I've always thought it was forgettable.

    AP has its Jules Audemars Dual Time 41 mm and 9.25 mm thick. Nice but I don't love the use of the RO Dual Time dial layout in this piece. Its case is thinner, but larger in diameter, and its a situation of a small movement going into a larger case to follow fashion. It actually fits in a much smaller case (as they were offering it in earlier 36 mm round models in the 1990s). Also some may have issues with it being a JLC derived movement when the other are in house movements.

    Patek...well they don't really offer a similar complication unless maybe you go to the old 5054 of the late 1990's. It's smaller in diameter 35.5...but thicker at 10 mm.

    Those are all nice watches, but I can't say any of them are as visually interesting as the L1, nor were any of them ground breaking designs when they were released. So perhaps any watch listed above would be subject to what you described as a "bigger issue: the proliferation of "dressy" watch designs that sacrifice simplicity and thinness in order to be bigger, flashier and more noticeable."

    While the dressiest watches in the purest sense would be very thin, time only pieces... I'm not offended by watches being somewhat larger or a bit thicker and having a few complications. I think its maybe a bit an inaccurate generalization to throw all watches that have complications and which are thicker than time only pieces or ultra thins into a class of watch designs that sacrifice simplicity and thinness in order to be bigger, flashier and more noticeable. I find watches that fall under the being bigger, flashier and more noticeable...to be watches like Hublot Big Bang pieces, Offshore ROs, several IWCs, and a host of other gigantic watches that are often not very attractive, and are often about outblinging other people.

    Anyway, nothing wrong with an L1 not being the right watch for you. I just find its really a watch that's in a class by itself in terms of design.
     
    2 people like this.
  13. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Mafoofan, can I make some suggestions?

    The Patek is boring. Incredibly boring. It's dial is flat and "dead", and it looks like a watch which is consciously trying to reference the past.

    And a water meter.

    (all IMO of course)

    If a Patek or Lange is in your budget... and you like the Moser - how about these?

    (especially if you want to stay within the "dress watch" rubric)

    1. Laurent Ferrier Microrotor
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    2. F.P. Journe Octa Divine/Octa Automatique Lune or Quantieme Perpetual

    OD:
    [​IMG]

    OAL:
    [​IMG]

    QP:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2016
    4 people like this.
  14. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I do love that Galet Micro-Rotor with shameful passion.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Nikolaus

    Nikolaus Senior member

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    Patek Philippe has some nice looking high-end show pieces, that cost like a Bugatti, however their main (simple) watch line is too boring, dusty and with flat dials for me.

    I must admit Rolex is lately putting out some interesting watches even if I was never a big fan of this brand.

    What I like a lot, if we speak about everyday watches, is Blancpain and the new Omega Planet Ocean!
    The old Omega Planet Ocean had two sizes; the big one was a wrist clock, the smaller too cluttered. The new size is just in between and I think it should be perfect.


    http://www.blancpain.com/en/watch/5000-1230-b52a
     
  16. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Senior member

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    Wow tough crowd! Agree that at the same price, I would rather buy an IWC (e.g.) than a Montblanc.

    Having said that, (1) Montblanc sounds like an example of a brand that is considered very differently by watch aficionados from the casuals - I wore it out yesterday and today (see pictures below) and there were a lot of positive comments about it; and (2) overall, so far I'm actually quite happy with it - they've obviously put a lot of money into the movements, feels sturdy and well built but not super heavy (although the clasp gets a little uncomfortable), and loving the white face at the moment and the different chrono setup they've got.

    Let's see what happens - I'm still undecided (disclosure - I may sell one soon!).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]





    +1!
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2016
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I won't dispute that the Lange 1 has a unique dial design. However, other than the big date, I don't agree its features should add any thickness versus the 5296 benchmark.

    Sub-seconds, for example, do not require the extra gear train that central seconds do--that actually ought to be a disadvantage for the Patek and an advantage for the Lange 1, not the other way around. Power reserve indicators also do not need to add thickness. Really, the only feature that does is the big date. Yet, the Patek is an automatic and burdened by a central rotor! So why is the German so much chunkier? I suppose there is the longer power reserve that necessitates two mainspring barrels, but still doesn't add up to me. FP Journe's Chronometre Souverain is thinner and includes both double mainsprings and a power reserve indicator.

    Anyway, not saying the Lange 1 isn't an admirable watch, just suggesting some of its design decisions are perhaps more for show than substance.


    Sometimes "boring" is a virtue . . .

    The best Pateks are the "boring" ones, not the ones that have been highly fashioned or over-designed.


    It's a beauty for sure.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  18. Viral

    Viral Senior member

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    which tank are you selling? Link to your ad?
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tank Louis Cartier Extra Flat in rose gold, with Piaget ultra-thin movement. Sold already.
     
  20. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Not sure if the 5296 is specifically your desired watch and that is why it's being compared to the Lange 1. However, your statements about thickness would still apply to the VC and the Patek 5054 that I referenced, both which are closer to a L1 in terms of offering similar additional functions to telling time.

    Ah yes, I recall your dislike of the gold chatons. Its all personal preference, but much of what happens with watch designs is a way of distinguishing themselves from others. Blue'd screws - some watches have them, some its just chemically done (not through heating), others don't bother at all, but it doesn't affect a watches performance. I've seen JLCs that have them, and VC's with the same base movement that don't. As for your design for show rather than substance...I can't help but chuckle a little. One can purchase something that is all substance for a heck of a lot less than a Patek, Lange, AP, VC etc. So on some level, your choice regardless of brand is about show.

    As for boring watches, well maybe I'd choose boring over some of Patek's more recent tasteless pieces with engraved cases. However, when considering more subdued normal watches - while there is nothing wrong with boring, I don't see it as a virtue. Boring can be safe, and there can be comfort in that... but boring is one of the reasons I've struggled for years to find a basic "Relatively affordable" Patek that I really wanted to own.

    Anyway, wishing you luck on your next watch adventure and I look forward to seeing what you eventually choose.
     
    2 people like this.

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