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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Never a need to apologize for a Stowa. Great watches and phenomenal value. I love my Marine.
     


  2. Thin White Duke

    Thin White Duke Distinguished Member

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    I'm starting to get a real Jones for the IWC Yacht Club as my grail watch.
    I did a search on SF and there are some discussions of Portugeses in general but I was surprised to not see anything specific about these beautiful creatures.

    Anyone have any experiences good or bad, or other comments about these?

    Just snooping around it looks like they can be had new for less than $10k so it could be argued they are in SS Daytona territory which is another sweet looking watch with similar functions but the YC seems little more refined to my eye.

    Anyway, comments welcome.
     


  3. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Distinguished Member

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    Are you sure? Is that their only New York locaction? I swear I've read something about someone being able to get them from their stores. I've heard Chicago has them as well. Maybe give them a call.

    On a side note, I picked up a Camille Fourniet for my Geophysic and I would recommend one of those. They make JLCs straps, but they're cheaper than getting them directly from JLC. You could probably get one for half of what you'd pay for an Hermes and mine came with the easy to change spring bar.
     


  4. Dino944

    Dino944 Distinguished Member

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    If you love it and its your grail watch then go for it. I find it one of their least interesting designs...almost generic looking. It's definitely not a piece I'd consider, especially in that price range. The only modern IWCs that interest me are some of the pilot watches...although I prefer the old 3706 and 3713 chronographs.

    As for the Daytona...its a bit more expensive, unless you go pre-owned. However, it's a more distinctive design, although maybe you want something that has less recognizable brand DNA. IMHO the Daytona is far more attractive, and its movement is almost impossible to beat in its price range. Actually, while the finish isn't as fancy has some higher end brands its technically one of the most advanced and well made movements you will find in any watch.

    If its your grail and you love it go for it. Wishing you luck with whatever you decide!
     


  5. Thin White Duke

    Thin White Duke Distinguished Member

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    Thanks for your thoughts Dino. Interesting. On a purely aesthetic level the IWC pilots just don't float my boat. With unlimited budget (or enough time to save up!) I'd own a Daytona and a YC, and I realize we're not exactly comparing apples to apples (cf the recent Daytona Speedmaster debate) but if I had budget for only one I think the IWC is a bit more versatile and refined than the more chunky and sporty looking Daytona. Both very tasty looking watches mind!

    Your comments on the Daytona movements - are you talking accuracy or bullet-proof robustness (or both?) or something else?

    Appreciate the sharing of knowledge that goes on in here. Great thread. Cheers, TWD!
     


  6. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Distinguished Member

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    I too am not a fan of that Yacht Club. Much like Dino I prefer the older pilot's watches or some of the Flieger chronographs like the 3705 or 3706 (with German days only!). Still if you're looking at a modern IWC then how about the Portuguese chronograph? Depending on what metal you want, you could actually get a gold one for close to the price of the Yacht Club or just get one in steel and save some money that you could put towards a Daytona. It also looks more versatile (in part down to the lack of a crown guard) and as sporty as the Yacht Club.

    I've not handled either watch, but I would say that the Yacht Club looks as chunky if not more so. Even if it's not it's notably wider which would be a concern, although that probably makes it look less chunky if they are equally as thick. It still probably looks quite big though at over 45mm and at 14.5mm it's certainly not thin. I also think it's as sporty looking as a Daytona and it doesn't look any more versatile. It also doesn't look as rich or polished as the Daytona does. Just my two cents.

    At the end of the day though I would go with what you love and that's all that matters. I would just say that if you haven't been looking for very long that you should probably take your time.
     


  7. Thin White Duke

    Thin White Duke Distinguished Member

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    Cheers. Definitely still in the contemplative stage - an investment like that should never be taken lightly. Ta for your thoughts.
     


  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Distinguished Member

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    The Yacht Club more refined or versatile? That's subjective, but doubtful. Also, are we talking about the same model of Yacht Club, ref 3905? At 43.5 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm thick it is considerably larger and thicker than a Daytona. So unless you have a huge build to offset its size...its going to look like a big chunky sporty watch. Not to mention with its red seconds hand, and markings on the dial, along with its crown protecting shoulders...its certainly no dress watch. While I've never been much of a fan of the basic Portugese Chronograph its a cleaner more versatile design than the Yacht Club.

    As for the Daytona's movement, I wasn't speaking of accuracy, although with all the newer models Rolex does have a new standard of accuracy that surpasses that of chronometer standards. I was actually speaking of the movement's design and functions. It had a 72 hour power reserve as of the year 2000 when most chronographs had about 42 hours (when not using the chronograph function) and it did so without making an unusually large movement and case. Use of high tech materials such as its blue parachrom hairspring making it virtually antimagnetic. It also has a serviceable vertical clutch for the chronograph which is something most don't have. Those are just a few highlights...but if you do a bit of searching here, Belligero has posted some more in depth discussions about its movement. He also discussed how some of his watchmaker friends with training and experience working on Daytonas and other watches, believe Rolex cal 4130 is one of the best chronograph movements on the market. As for robustness, its simply something Rolex has been known for, for many years. If I had to choose one watch to last me forever on a deserted island...it would be a Rolex.

    Good luck with whatever you decide and happy shopping.
     


  9. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    Ah, but the question should be which model!
     


  10. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior Member

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    Some additional thoughts In re the IWC. Partly echoing Dino - The case size of 45.4mm wide and about 14.5mm thickness doesn't work with the otherwise somewhat elegant look. That date window just throws off the look for me as well.

    The stats on the movement look good but I'd be careful to research it solidly before pulling the trigger. IWC has a somewhat hit or miss history with their in-house movements of the last decade. Could be a 'hit' just make sure you check.

    I would absolutely recommend trying one on before making a decision. For me, even though I'm a bigger guy and can pull off that size, its just not as comfortable.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2016


  11. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Distinguished Member

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    Also not a fan of the yacht club and I'm more or less a big fan of IWC in general. I agree that c/w the Daytona I can't say that particular IWC model is more refined or elegant. Have you tried them both on next to each other? I'm speaking of the 43.5 mm model to be sure, leave alone the 45 mm YC.

    When you're at that price range, a little stretch could certainly get you the Daytona if that's what you truly want. You had mentioned if money wasn't an option- but for a "bit" more you're certainly within striking range of the Rolex and it "may" be worth it to you to just put down the investment now if the Daytona is on your dream-list. Don't 'settle' for the IWC is my point (which I'm not implying you're trying to do...is it?)

    That being said I find the IWC Portuguese 7 day auto or the newer Portuguese Chronograph to be visually more appealing than the Yacht Club (which I personally feel is too big and too expensive for what it's trying to be..)

    Good luck!

    R
     


  12. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Figured I'd put my wrist where my words are. My Stowa Marine Auto out for a spin.

    [​IMG]
     


  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Distinguished Member

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    +1
    For me the date is a big mistake with respect to the aesthetics of the YC.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2016


  14. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Amen. I agonised over the Pro Diver for ages and still ask whether I should have bought it - I had a big crush on the bracelet version a couple of years ago. You're absolutely right: especially at the more accessible end of the market, so many watches look like Submariner hommages and it's just not my thing. In the end I got a Flieger instead, where nobody can trump Stowa's own history, and an equally non-Rolexy Orange Monster to beat on the beach.

    But yeah: big love for Stowa here. I fancy the Marine Original a lot too.

    I think it's pretty, especially the blue one, but it's not special enough for the price. The older Portuguese Chronograph is around used for about $4k, and at that price I can forgive the tweaked ETA movement because it's such a distinctive and pleasing design. Yes, the oddly angled case gets stuck on your shirt sleeve, but I still think it's cool. Whereas the newer range have a proper in house movement and an empirically better-designed case. Which should be better, but somehow isn't. At least, it's not ten grand kind of better, not in my book.
     


  15. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    By coincidence - it's normally strictly a weekend wear - I had a whim to wear my Flieger to work today.
    [​IMG]

    OK, it's the weekend for most of you...maybe that's it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016


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