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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

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  1. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Seeing as everyone else ignored you, I'll try to walk the walk here: nothing wrong with buying a cheap watch, but this is Styleforum, and this is in the Classic Menswear section. So the bias is going to be towards something a bit more substantial.

    I have a Sekonda quartz watch I bought as an emergency back up a few years ago. It cost £20, worked fine, kept good time and at first glance looked pretty pleasant. It was what I needed for that particular time. But I say "was" because although I still have it somewhere, I've never bothered changing the battery or using it again. It just doesn't meet the minimum standard of what I want to wear. Watches aren't just functional (or even functional at all when we all carry a self-correcting cellphone), they are art, engineering, and expressions of self. I think as men, we can put watches somewhere between cars and clothes in terms of how we like to identify with them, and how we go about choosing them. We want them to look like we want to look, and we also care about who made them, how, and to do what. A cheap quartz watch is my daughter's high mileage Skoda Fabia: fine for the budget, does the job, and in black it's a pretty nicely designed little car. But it's not me. I drive it, but it would never be my car.

    So back to the point, @Suetonius : ask yourself what you're trying to achieve. If you just want a watch, any watch, then get the cheapest one you like and most people won't notice anyway. But if you have a deeper interest, then think a little more about what you're willing to spend on this. For example, if you can go to say, £60-80, then some very appealing Japanese mechanical watches are open to you - Orient Bambino, Seiko 5 are the obvious ones. Not luxury, not prestige per se, but "proper" - in my book anyway. I really like the Seiko 5 Military - got one for my son and we both love it. Get up to £150-200 and there are a lot of great choices from Japan, but also the entry level of Swiss mechanical watches from Tissot or Hamilton. You're really starting to feel like you've got a serious watch then. But it's up to you.

    I don't know the site you mentioned, but without looking I'm guessing they specialise in cheaper fashion watches. For some of the ones I've mentioned, check out longislandwatch.com (US) or creationwatches.com (Singapore) for the cheaper ones, and perhaps jomashop.com or ashford.com (both US) for the next step up. I've used all of them without difficulty. Also, check out the Poor Man's Watch Thread for a lot of other ideas - you'll find a lot of the same posters and same advice there, but more focused on an accessible price point: I actually have no watches worth more than the "PMW" threshold of $1000*, so this isn't dick waving. (*OK, "yet"...)

    Anyway, good luck, welcome to the TWAT brotherhood, and let us know what happens. Just one word of warning: if you do decide you want to step up your watch aspirations a bit, the slippery slope can be steep and fast [​IMG]



    I really like the Portuguese. And I like the OP too - though I'm fine with it in its standard 36mm size. Seriously, I want both.

    But, if I can be blunt, get over your "big watch" fixation first: it's a fashion thing right now to carry a tuna can on your wrist, and like any fashion it will pass. Both of the watches you chose are larger than classic already, but should stand the test of time just fine. If anything, they are already a bit showy for the office and definitely too much for your dinner suit: everyone knows what a Rolex looks like, on some level, so a slightly inflated one is even more prominent. And the large dial/narrow bezel of the Portuguese really make it look large, plus the unusual case shape of this version will tend to catch on your sleeve so it's always on show.

    Anyway, notes of caution over. If you want other suggestions, you'll certainly get them. Mine might be to get more than one watch - a do-anything watch, and something understated and dressy for black tie or more formal business wear. But if you're set on one of these, then I think it's the Rolex: it's less dressy than the Portuguese, but it's not loud or silly either. And unlike the Portuguese, it will transition very well to jeans and t-shirt. "Get both" is the normal advice here, and sniff around the used listing for the Portuguese because you might find that's possible. But otherwise, grab the OP if you love it, and you'll find a slick vintage dress watch for evening wear under $1k if you want to. @Belligero speaks truth.


    P.S. Had to look up who that Eva woman is. She doesn't have a butt either. But I'm not sure as I'm slightly vision-impaired since Keith's video share.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
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  2. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    Thoughts on the Tudor Pelagos in black with the new in-house movement? I looks pretty versatile but the 41mm face plus the bezel might be too huge for a smaller wrist (7").

    [​IMG]


    What's a good price for it in the used market with AD papers?
     
  3. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    I think you can wear the IWC more easily with a shirt and jeans than the OP with a tux. I'm also not certain how well the contrast markers will age with time.

    I agree with Belli though, I don't think the IWC is worth the price tag. I'd also suggest Nomos but I'm also extremely biased.
     
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  4. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I can't give you any advice on pricing, but definitely go and try the Pelagos first before you decide whether or not to get one.

    I was really attracted to it, but I found that it was just too large for me - but then I'm typically used to lower profile watches of 36 - 38mm diameter.

    It's a great watch, but may not be for everyone because of its diameter (actually not that unusual in these days of oversized watches) and its thickness.
     
  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    If you want the in-house movement, then you might have to wait a while for a good deal used. But my take on the Pelagos is "no". Not that I don't like it, but there were a couple of things that bugged me: firstly, I actually didn't like that it's so light. There's some kind of dissonance in how it feels when it's so utilitarian-looking. I prefer the heft of a steel diver. And secondly, any all-black dive watch is going to be compared to a Submariner, and a Tudor more than most. The Pelagos isn't cheap either, so compared to a classic used Sub, the differentiation isn't sufficient. As for the size, it's a personal thing. My wrist is barely over 7", but a dive watch is supposed to be substantial so it didn't look or feel odd to me. That said, it might just be another argument for a classic Sub - smaller case, narrower lugs, just a little bit less in your face.

    By coincidence, I was looking at Tudors at Heathrow yesterday, as it was the first time I've seen the Black Bay Black in the flesh. That's also very vintage-Sub-ish, but cheaper than the Pelagos, pretty sexy, and looks good on a strap.

    I wouldn't recommend the OP with a dinner suit either; I like Belli's suggestion of a cheap but classy vintage number for that purpose. As for the contrasting markers, I agree - another reason I like the 36mm version more. But they're not quite as prominent in person.

    At around $4k used, I think the Portuguese is a good deal, especially since the new version with a new movement arrived. But yeah, at full price it wouldn't make sense to me either.
     
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  6. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    I heard that about the contrast markers, but then I tried a couple on in the fall and it's all I can see when I look down. I think it's just a matter of not being able to un-see something that bothers you (obviously just my personal preference); like the winking face in the master geo or maybe that first scratch you get on a lug.
     
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  7. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Guys, Rolex OP with a dinner suit will do just fine IMO.

    Sure, it's not a big crown Submariner, but I think there's enough shared DNA there to pull it off.

    Then again, I'm the dude who wears this with a dinner suit, so... :foo:

    [​IMG]

    Mine's actually even more old school - manual wind, movement by FP I believe.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
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  8. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    Off of these boards anything will do just fine in any situation for the most part, but since he's asking here, I figured I should shun the idea of an oyster with a tux as much as possible. Rolex Oysters with a tux don't work. Unless your line of work involves attending black tie events where you may also need to fight an international criminal and/or their henchmen, then you don't need to wear anything from Rolex's Oyster line to a black tie event.

    To answer from a real world perspective, almost no one will care if you wear the OP with a tux, and almost no one will care if you wear the IWC with sweats.

    Lovely Corum by the way.
     
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  9. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    Quote:1. Both work well enough. Hardcore traditionalists would say no stainless bracelets with suits though. 2. Both work. 3. Neither really works. Need a dress watch for a tux.
     
  10. robw

    robw Senior member

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    Neither really will go with a tux strictly speaking.

    Between those two I would go with the Rolex. I am an IWC owner and the Portuguese chrono is a beautiful watch with a unique design, but I think the Rolex is the better choice if you will just have just one watch. More durable, versatile and timeless.

    But all of the opinions you get here at the end of the day are just talk. get the one that speaks to you.



     
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  11. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    I loved the Portuguese chrono early in my watch interest days and while I am a Crown fanboi, I do not like the contrasting markers on the OP. I understand how the IWC draws people in as it is from a reputable brands, is minimal compared to some chronos, and the numerals are easy on the eyes.

    My vote would be for the IWC though as others have mentioned, it is not able to pull black tie duty. The only reason I wore my GMT with a tux is because it was my wedding gift.
     
  12. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    May I offer up a suggestion? How about a Datejust 116200 silver dial with stick indicies and a roulette date wheel. Seems like this could offer the right balance of sport and formal. But if it's between those two, I'd pick the OP.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Congrats! Love the original Lange 1 Moonphase. Nice choice!
    My vote would be for the Rolex because of its quality, its movement and its classic design. The Rolex is more versatile, has a high quality in house movement, and it will maintain its value far better. I could wear it with a suit, jeans, and although its not truly a dress watch, its going to look far more subdued and appropriate with a tux (if you have to), than a big 41mm sports watch with chronograph buttons etc. Although, we all know technically you are not supposed to wear a watch with a tux, when I think if watches that could be worn with a tux they are generally time only, modestly sized, subdued designs. They aren't chronographs. I suppose if you feel at 39mm its a tad small you could consider the slightly larger but sportier (with orange lightning bolt seconds hand) Milguass which is 40mm.

    I like some of the older IWC pilot watches from the 1990s into the 2000s (good quality, attractive designs, and reasonably priced considering they used outsourced movements). However, I have always been unimpressed and underwhelmed by the IWC Portuguese chronograph. A generic outsourced movement that at today's prices, when compared to the Rolex, essentially turns it into a pricey fashion watch IMHO (all case and not much substance). I also find its one of IWCs most commonly worn IWCs on younger guys (I see this and the steel IWC BPs on lots of the wealthy college students in Boston), and I wonder if as you transition into your 30's etc. whether you will outgrow it and wish you had gone with a more classic design.

    I think the IWC will look great with jeans and you can probably get away with it when wearing a suit, but I just think this is going to look silly and inappropriate based on size and design with a tux. Although, I would guess you will see other guys wearing plastic Casios with suits or even tux's so, at least it will look better than that. However, its still not a tux watch (but perhaps you need to consider how often you wear tuxes.

    Although, I prefer the Rolex OP to the Omegas you previously mentioned, I prefer the Omega's you had mentioned over this IWC. Anyway, wishing you luck with your decision.
     
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  14. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    Reverso Thursday? [​IMG]
     
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  15. UnFacconable

    UnFacconable Senior member

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    If we are going to be strict about tuxes, I would point out that many (ok some and I guess after refreshing I see that Dino beat me to the punch) would say you shouldn't wear any wristwatch with a tux because a watch says you care what time it is and have somewhere to go to and for semi-formal and formal events you shouldn't be looking at a watch you should be enjoying the company.

    Bottom line unless you are on the clock at black tie events regularly, does it really make sense to justify a watch like this based on whether it can do double dirty as a formal watch?

    Of course few if any will care notice if you have a casual watch on at a black tie event. But if there is a desire to be "correct" then nothing is better than going watch free. The next best thing according to people who care about this would be a simple time only precious metal watch on a black alligator strap.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
  16. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    Why not.

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    "we all know technically you are not supposed to wear a watch with a tux"

    Not you too! It is completely acceptable to wear a dress watch with a tux.

    In fact, there is a long history of watches with black tie, starting back with pocket watches, then onto wrist. When you look at the history of formal and semi-formal dress, once timepieces became popular the dress code followed suit... indeed, the tuxes had pockets for them and you can see the chains on some old pictures.. When the style switched over to wrist watches after the wars so to did black tie.

    Now you can say you don't have to wear a watch with a tux or you don't prefer to wear a watch with a tux, but this 'rule' of not supposed to is internet lore.

    http://www.blacktieguide.com/Vintage/Vintage_Accessories.htm
    http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Accessories.htm
     
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  18. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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    ^^^@francisco-bt: respectfully, and not to discount all of the great, thoughtful replies-- I do believe this one may have already smiled back at you.^^^




    Here's my Reverso....


    [​IMG]
     
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  19. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    Agreed, while neither would be my choice for black tie, if you made me choose, I'd wear the IWC. That said, I can't imagine black tie driving a one watch decision; I just can't imagine it being a big enough slice of the wrist time pie chart to move the needle on the decision.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
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  20. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    Agreed on the DJ as an all around watch.

    [​IMG]
     
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