The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    Last edited: Mar 27, 2016


  2. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Some recent wrist shots...I do love chronographs!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's a beautiful watch. I'd have to see it in person to know how I feel about the blue accents, though.
    And it benefits a lot from dropping the day counter.
     


  4. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    I had the same trepidation, but decided that the blue just gave it a modern twist.
     


  5. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    To add to my IWC recommendation, an IWC Small Portuguese Ref. 3531 in rose gold is a great choice around or just above $5K. It's been out of production for many years and doesn't pop up for sale very often. If you like it and find it, grab it.
     


  6. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    I'm not normally a fan of two-tone watches, but is it wrong to covet this?

    [​IMG]

    I read that the original "jumbo" used the caliber 2121 as well, but after seeing pictures of it, it looks different from the 2121 used in the current 15202 (i.e. the weight is steel/gold vs. all gold). Anyone care to educate me on the early history of the AP Royal Oak (queuing @Dino944 ...)?
     


  7. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I'm not a huge fan of tutone watches, but I do think the RO does look really nice in steel & gold. Back in the 1970s and 80s, the "Big Three" offered their respective sports watches (the RO, Nautilus, and 222 in steel and gold). However, in the 1990's there was a strong shift toward watches in a single metal, in particular white metals became extremely popular and the big three stopped offering their respective sport watches in steel and gold. It has been interesting to see a revival of steel and gold being used by AP, PP, and VC.

    If you look at Jumbos over the years there have been several changes to the dials (placement of the AP, size of the Cloud de Paris, size of lum for hour markers, font on the dial and date). Other changes have been made over the years to the bracelet construction, bracelet thickness (slightly thicker on 2012 and later Jumbos), clasps, and rotors. The RO "Jumbo" regardless of age has always used, and continues to use cal 2121. The early ROs of the 1970s and 1980s had closed backs. However, with different versions of the open back/ synthetic sapphire case back the rotors have changed over the years.

    Below are a few rotors that have been used in open back models of the Jumbo. The first is the 14802 Jubilee RO from 1992. The clasp construction is different than the original 5402 (which used a folding steel blade just like Rolex did until roughly the mid 2000s). There are 4 clasps that have been used on RO Jumbos. I prefer the original of the 5402 and the current clasp of the 2012 and later Jumbos for comfort.

    Hope this helps. Cheers!

    14802
    [​IMG]

    15202 pre-2012
    [​IMG]

    15202 from 2012 and later.
    [​IMG]
     


  8. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    ^ Thanks, Dino!

    I found a pic of the caliber 2121 that was used in the older ROs with closed back:

    [​IMG]

    I just started to research ROs in earnest and it is very confusing! There are so many different models using different calibers that it is hard to even fantasize about which one I want!
     


  9. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Yes, most closed back ROs of the past had that style of rotor. Not sure if you are researching ROs in general, or specifically are interested in a Jumbo. If your research if ROs in general, well you have your work cut out for you as there have been many different ROs, in different sizes, and with different complications...the time only models, chronographs, dual time models, and day-date/moonphase models...and that is of course ignoring the high complicated models.

    Your choice might also be based on your wrist size, intended use, and how hard you are on watches. If you like bigger ROs...then you would probably want the 15400 or the current chronograph, both of which are 41mm. If you have an average sized wrist the Jumbo, the 15300, the later Dual Time, and later Day-Date were all 39mm (but the Jumbo fits differently do to being much thinner), and if you have a small wrist, there have been 36mm versions of the time only RO, the Dual Time, and the Date-Date/moonphase.

    Good luck and enjoy your research!
     


  10. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    Well, the most fun part of getting new watches is the research, at least IMHO. :)

    I am interested in a time-only model and preferably with a smaller case. Though the 15450 is nice at 37mm, I am looking for an older piece and saw that there are a few different versions with a 36mm case. This is where it gets complicated, though, since even in that case size there are different movements (2125 vs. 2225). I've only tried on an APRO once and cannot recall if it was the 15400 or 15450, so I'm not sure how the 36mm will look on my wrist.

    Anyways, just tire-kicking at this point. You have the 15202, right? Could you please post (or re-post) a wristshot when you get the chance, maybe followed by a wristshot with your Daytona or BNLR to gauge the size? (<-- excuse me if I sound so demanding there!)
     


  11. atia2

    atia2 Senior member

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    Reminds me a lot of the Rolex 17013, a 1970s two-tone classic.
     


  12. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    My knowledge of Rolex reference numbers is quite abysmal, so I had to look that up.

    But yeah, you are right! Looks similar. I also like the Oysterquartz, though I think I might prefer it in stainless steel (with a blue dial).
     


  13. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    The RO predates the Oysterquartz line by a few years. I had a friend who until he got his RO, used to refer to his Oysterquartz as his "Poor Man's RO." I really like the OQs, but I prefer the all steel 17000 and all gold 19018 and WG 19019. Cheers!

    Agreed, the research is a lot of fun.

    I think if you had tried the 15400 you would know. Its feels and wears considerably larger than a 40 mm Rolex, due to the angle of the lugs and more rigid bracelet.

    If IIRC, many of the 36mm RO's have base movements from JLC (including the Dual Time and Day-Date in both 36 and 39 mm form).

    Yes, I have the 15202, which is 39 mm. It definitely looks and feels much larger than the 36 mm ROs (I had one years ago). It also wears larger than its dimensions suggest (if I were told it was 40 or 40.5 mm, I would have no reason to doubt it). It also wears differently than the other 39 mm ROs all of which have much thicker cases, and thicker bracelet links.
    Below are a few wrist shots and a group shot, hopefully these will be helpful to you. Cheers!

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     


  14. atia2

    atia2 Senior member

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    Sorry, would have posted an image but it's fiddly on my phone.

    They are both lovely watches. The clean space-age styling, especially on the bracelets, speaks of an era when our futures were filled with hope for the possibilities that science and technology might bring to the world. In a sense, it's a betrayal of that hope NOT to have a quartz movement inside!
     


  15. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Do any of you wear a Fitbit or other activity tracker? Do you also wear a watch? I got a Fitbit a week or so ago and I kinda ditched my watch because it was a hassle to wear both.
     


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