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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    nothing against the sub, but the SD4000 is a glorious watch IMO.
     


  2. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

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    I've been on a super hot streak lately finding some awesome stuff! This one just came in today. In my opinion, this is the single most important watch of the modern era. It's Harry Winston Opus V in platinum for those not familiar. Not only did it play a pivotal role in the rise of both MB&F and URWERK, but if you look at the watches that came before it and those which came after, it clearly influenced the entire sphere of contemporary horology. I'm writing a whole essay on it and doing a video review, but in the meantime had to share a couple pictures

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    [​IMG]Love the Opus V, definitely one of the coolest watches! The only comment I would make relative to the Opus V is I believe it, MB&F and Urwerk were all influenced a bit by AP's Star Wheel which was released more than a decade earlier. Personally, I think the Opus V looks cooler...but the Star Wheel was the first watch I had seen in person with this non-traditional style of telling time using rotating discs etc.
    Thanks for sharing the photos of your Opus V. Probably my favorite of the watches you have posted. [​IMG]

    Here is a quick photo of a Star Wheel for those who haven't seen one.

    [​IMG]
     


  4. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Ten a penny mate.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  5. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

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    Certainly URWERK was, although AP didn't quite make the same point. In the beginning of development of the 102 (the precursor to every other URWERK), Felix tried to use the same spring system as the Starwheel. However, it draws too much power. So he developed the Geneva Cross system that uses much less power but needs to be machined to much tighter tolerances to work. Of course the Opus adds a completely new retrograde mechanism to it as well. The spring of the minute hand back to zero on this watch is possible the most fantastically pleasing moving part of any watch ever -- just the perfect bounce!
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2016


  6. Keith T

    Keith T TWAT Master.

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    Would wear with pride.
     


  7. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    Yes, I liked it a lot. Need to try an ordinary elongated Ellipse too. But it's quite 'standout' and I think I want a plainer gold dress watch that's less prominent (I don't have any gold watches).

    There are surprisingly few used Calatravas to try on in London boutiques.
     


  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I prefer the non-blinged out version. I don't really like lots of little stones on anything. The handful of times I have liked a watch with gems, the stones were baguettes so it looked sleeker and cleaner, than having lots of little stones with lots of little prongs holding the stones.
     


  9. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    Quote:Can't help but think if it had a different name on the dial it wouldn't even be a discussion. Don't care for it. But if you like it, then who cares :)
     


  10. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

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    Gentleman,

    I am looking for a gold watch to celebrate the early birth of my daughter. My budget is around $5,000, which I realize will significantly limit my options, and might relegate me to the preowned market, but nonetheless, thought I would look/ request your guidance. What I am looking for is a very simple dress watch in yellow or pink gold (rose would work potentially), in the style of a Calatrava/ Patrimony/ or even a Cartier Tank Solo XL. Manual wind is fine also.

    Thanks in advance and I appreciate your input!
     


  11. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    At that price point, I recommend a vintage IWC Cal. 89 like this one or this one. This watch is widely available with varying lugs and dial configurations, and will usually be well under $5K.
     


  12. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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  13. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Oh quite right, it's hideous as a thing to actually wear, and in that price range there are so many things that are just inherently beautiful as well as mechanically special. It was just such an outlandish thing to see on a guy's wrist at a meeting I had to have a grope! But then these epic works often are rather odd-looking and not so wearable, even without the sparkles.

    I second the suggestions of IWC and Vacheron Constantin. Also, the more elliptical PP "Ellipse" than the one shown higher on this page, although rather small, is pretty special and available used for your price.
    [​IMG]


    If you want a more modern dress watch size of, say 36-38mm, you might still find an older Patrimony or similar. But there are also some APs under $5k: I think perhaps that the brand is now so synonymous with the Royal Oak and its cousins, that the more classic styles fly under the radar. Under $5k gets a modern 36mm dress watch that's about as classic in styling as they come.

    [​IMG]

    (both pics from current listings on Chrono24)
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016


  14. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

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    Great options from all and I appreciate the suggestions. That VC that you linked to is pornographic...
     


  15. Keith T

    Keith T TWAT Master.

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    Great suggestion.

    Darlor has a pretty sweet-looking cal. 89 in their inventory that I have lusted for. (But I'm trying to show some restraint LOL).

    And I really love the bombe lugs on that watchxchange offering, but it looks almost too good to be true. Re-dial?

    The VC: well if a man can go down to 32mm, the watch world is his oyster, in terms of some great vintage stuff!
     


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