Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.
Yeah, well ..... sorry, Frank, but C-Sub owners aren't allowed to complain
^ that's straight up sex
with a hooker I can't afford
I know, I know
I'm new to this thread, but really enjoy the discussion. In seeing the new 5170, it got me thinking. What are some of the best (or, your favorite) hand-wind chronographs, new or vintage?
ALS are probably the prettiest.
Best is subjective...on a technical level the Lange Datograph has an amazing movement. However, I was never a fan of their mixing Romans, sticks, and Arabic numerals on the dial (that was corrected much later in production).
In terms of beauty and best bang for the buck, this would be my favorite hand wound chronograph, the VC Historiques. Based on a classic VC of the 1940s/ 50s and uses very high quality Lemania as its base.
I tried to get my father to purchase one years ago. However, he preferred its cousin, Patek's 5070J, which used the same base movement. However, Patek made modifications to the movement, which some believe make its movement superior...but the cost of entry was and still is significantly more. It's also based on a vintage design.
And for a manual wind sports watch, my favorite based purely on aesthetics would be vintage Rolex 6263
Longines 13ZN gets a lot of (well-deserved) love.
Thanks for the great reply! Two things I noticed when I was looking 16520s was that one listing called it a "limited edition" and another listing called the movement a "zenith" movement. So were they indeed limited editions? Also, was "zenith" just the name of the movement (I assume so) as opposed to Zenith making the movement?
DRSD. I get out of bed just to put this on
^ really, really great!!
I especially like the way the numeral "9" is written on the older Sub-Date and SDs - what font is that (queuing @Belligero...)?
Open 6's and open 9's....just the perfect vintage vibe
That's no font, and therefore it has no name.
That's an example of skilled hand lettering, which is the textual equivalent of bespoke shoes.
(And Arial, as we know, is roughly analogous to a pair of fake Crocs.)
No, the steel models were not "Limited editions." At most production was somewhat limited, because they were dependent on an outside supplier (Zenith), the movements were complex and received many modifications once they reached Rolex, and there was a greater profit margin on gold and tutone models so they had incentive to put more of them into all gold or tutones than all steel (although, I'd guess more movements went into tutones, because the price of the all gold model limited the customer base for that model). The base movement of the 16520 was actually an El Primero movement from Zenith. However, Rolex supposedly 100-200 changes to the movement such as reducing the number of beats from 36,600 to 28,800. I have a list of changes somewhere in my reference materials, although I've never counted all of them to get an exact number. Anyway, so many changes were made that some considered the 1652X the last Rolex to truly have a lot of hand workmanship. Overall, great watches and one of my favorite Rolex watches, but definitely NOT limited editions. Cheers!
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