The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. robw

    robw Senior member

    Messages:
    173
    Likes Received:
    90
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2010
    Agree completely. The only Speedmaster (probably the only Omega) I like is the pro. There have been and continue to be too many different editions and models named Speedmaster that have not been consistent to the name or appearance with different movements and functions all of which have diluted the name.

    Between the Daytona and Speedmaster(not even sure which one you mean which is part of the problem, see above) I really don't see any comparison. They are just different watches in quality, workmanship and just the way they feel. Kind of like asking why most people on SF would prefer an Isaia or Kiton blue suit over a Suit Supply blue suit. Nothing wrong with Suit Supply but just not the same.

    I would point out that Omega is not, and doesn't try to play, in the same league as Rolex. In fact the NYT had an interview with Omega's CEO yesterday who stated the average price for its watches is 7k and they have moved up a lot but plan to stay there. Nothing wrong with Omega but that is just the way it is.

    It all comes down to what you like and are happy with. You prefer a Speedmaster? Then get one and wear it and enjoy it in good health.



     


  2. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

    Messages:
    731
    Likes Received:
    334
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    Location:
    Hoboken
    In re: Daytona vs. Speedy

    Other than the already excellent discussion, personally, a lot of it comes down to aesthetics, movements and cases. On the simplest level I like the look of the Daytona more than the Speedy. Diving in a little further, you have a pretty big gap in the quality of the modern movements if you go with the 'traditional' Speedy vs the 4130. Now if you go with a 'modern' speedy that gap mostly disappears as the 9300 series of movements by Omega have been well regarded but then the cases they use are so thick that they don't interest me.

    I went through the process of comparing the Omega offerings vs the Daytona recently as I've described in bits and pieces over the past few months. I came to like the look and the movement of the Grey Side of the Moon, it is probably my favorite modern speedy. And while the GSOM cut the gap between the aesthetics and movement; the thickness and overall size sorta turned me off a bit.
     


  3. ktown

    ktown Senior member

    Messages:
    381
    Likes Received:
    270
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca
    Just got the BLNR yesterday. Maiden voyage today. First Rolex.

    [​IMG]

    Along with my other watch.

    [​IMG]
     


  4. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,138
    Likes Received:
    500
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2010
    I love the DSOM and the GSOM, but Omega really should've stopped there. Now there are like 6 different versions including the meteorite dial one. Just like others have mentioned, too many variations/editions on a theme kind of ruined the specialness of it.

    but to that end, I think you can get a GSOM for far less than MSRP ;)

    R

     


  5. robw

    robw Senior member

    Messages:
    173
    Likes Received:
    90
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2010
    Very nice! Enjoy
     


  6. robw

    robw Senior member

    Messages:
    173
    Likes Received:
    90
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2010
    I just voted as well. I am not sure if the watches shown are actually the ones that might get produced, but I dislike fake aging/patina on new watches. Kind of a deal breaker for me.

    Will be interesting to see how it goes though.




     


  7. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,794
    Likes Received:
    2,137
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    Looks great congrats and enjoy! [​IMG]
     


  8. UnFacconable

    UnFacconable Senior member

    Messages:
    1,257
    Likes Received:
    616
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2007
    

    First let me say that I don't disagree with you overall and even as a speedy owner and fan I wouldn't consider them superior to the Daytona and as many have said they are really just birds of a different feather. I still like the daytona and wasn't cross-shopping when I got my speedy. If anything it was speedy over one of the tudor heritage chronos for me and I'm very happy with my decision on so many levels.

    The thing is, I find you ordinarily extremely fastidious about details so I'm curious as to what is informing the quoted opinion above? Why is it that you think the inclusion of one plastic part (made of delrin which is a "space age" polymer) is considered cutting corners? It strains credibility to think that Omega has gone to such measures to replace one miniscule metallic part with a self-lubricating synthetic one to save money when they could easily have chosen not to add rhodium plating (as they did in the 861->1861 update) or taken other much measures to reduce cost. Are there other plastic parts besides the delrin brake that you are aware of?

    And might not it be true, to the contrary, that the delrin part is better because it's both self-lubricating (/hroi) and gentler with the wheel it interacts with and that the move was very much substance over form? Now I'm not a watchmaker so I don't know if metal or delrin is better for the chrono brake and as I recall Archer is skeptical that it makes a difference because from what he's seen the part rarely has any issues in the movement, but I still don't see how there could be any cost savings from replacing one miniscule part out of hundreds.

    If Rolex were to change a Daytona part to plastic they would probably come up with a new name like OysterPolymer and introduce it as a monumental breakthrough at Baselworld.

    Most of what you wrote is clearly a fact or an opinion, but the quoted statement to me is an indication of bias, again unless you have some evidence that the world doesn't appear to be aware of that the delrin part is in fact "cutting corners" or that there are other plastic parts in the cal 1861. By way of example, my previous paragraph is something a Rolex hater would say.


    Also, to bring this back around to watches we appreciate - I was able to make it to the RSC yesterday and got my Explorer resized so I can wear it now, yay!!!
     


  9. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

    Messages:
    311
    Likes Received:
    167
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2010
    

    You can't trust people mate. You really can't trust people.

    [​IMG]
     


  10. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

    Messages:
    986
    Likes Received:
    1,171
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2010
    Location:
    EUR
    
    I can offer a bit of insight on this courtesy of my watchmaker drinking buddy. While the Delrin brake is probably functionally superior to its metallic counterpart, that's not the main reason that cost-cutting is associated with the progression of the Speedmaster's movement. The big thing was going from column-wheel to cam-switched construction for the sake of cheaper, more efficient manufacturing when they replaced the cal. 321 with the cal. 861, as well as the newer movement's less-elaborate bridge treatment and change to a flat hairspring from an overcoil one. They're all good, reliable movements, though.

    By the way, he finds that some of the measures that reduced manufacturing cost also offered some improvements from his perspective, such as reducing the number of different screw sizes and types to a slightly-more-manageable level as the movements developed.

    Also, enjoy the Explorer! Nice to get it done in time for the weekend.
    :cheers:

    Here's the best article I've yet seen on affordable electric coffee grinders: http://thesweethome.com/reviews/the-best-coffee-grinder/

    Personally, I love my Mazzer Mini-E and it's been flawless in the four years that I've had it so far. I have a Lido 3 on the way as a brew and travel grinder, so the Mazzer will soon be on espresso duty only. A high-quality manual unit is definitely worth considering for home use; you get better grind quality for the buck, and they're quieter and (generally) more compact. Plus you can easily take it to the cabin or whatever. [​IMG]

    A tip: as a permanent kitchen resident, it's worth getting one that looks OK and doesn't make a shrill, ear-piercing racket during use from the start.
    A bonus tip: try not to strip the gears and burn the motor out by attempting to put dried coconut through a burr grinder, as my buddy's wife did with his. :p


    I briefly considered the ROK too, but everything I came across suggested that the Lido 2 or 3 is the preferable hand-cranker to have without going too insanely over-the-top. If space is a concern, it's worth noting that the Lido also occupies far less of it . Other quality options worth checking out while you're at it include ones from Commandante, Knock, Rosco, and king-of-all-manual-grinders HG One. :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2016


  11. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

    Messages:
    255
    Likes Received:
    423
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2014
    This GP has become my go-to watch and near daily wearer if I don't need ruggedness. I wanted to dress it down and give it a more vintage look. Custom ordered a grained leather strap from Camille Fournet which I received this morning. What do you think? I probably would have gone one shade darker if I could do it over again, but it's still pretty cool! What do you guys think? The interior lining is a cool blue rubberized leather material for summer.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     


  12. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,498
    Likes Received:
    4,851
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    It looks great, and the strap will darken by itself over time. Otherwise a tiny touch of shoe cream could take it down a shade.
     


  13. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

    Messages:
    986
    Likes Received:
    1,171
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2010
    Location:
    EUR
    ^
    I think it's a great-looking combination now, and that it'll be even better as the strap develops some character and darkens naturally with use. Don't baby it!
     


  14. robw

    robw Senior member

    Messages:
    173
    Likes Received:
    90
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2010
    Looks good but I think that watch needs an alligator or croc strap. Could have done the same contrast stitching to dress it down if you wanted. Also would have gone a little darker. Still a great great watch.
     


  15. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

    Messages:
    1,327
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2012
    Great stuff as always! I was wondering if you could elaborate on the resale values though. Specifically, what were the approximate MSRPs of both the 16520 and 116520? I'm actually quite ignorant as regards the Daytona compared to other watches and have sort of... ignored it based on some of the prices I've seen for vintage references. I tried to find the MSRP for the 16520 and I couldn't find it. Prices now seem to range quite a bit as well regardless of condition, but then I find "mint" doesn't equate to what I personally think it would/should.

    I feel the same about purchasing a watch. I am still finding watches that I like out there but consistently come back to either the same watch or nothing as it does need to really pull me in and I have to consider my budget. Great thing about it is I think I appreciate and love what I already have even more.

    I wouldn't mind seeing it on a brown strap just to see how it comes off, but I'm fine with the navy strap.

    To @Dino944 's point earlier, they seem to do far too many Speedmasters, the majority of which I wouldn't even consider. That said, doing so many can mean that you can get one or two right from time to time. The FOIS is the one new Speedmaster I would buy and this looks based off that in a lot of way. It's got the same hands, same size (a great thing) and probably also the use again of sapphire crystal which is usually a "no-no" for purists but which I prefer as it seems to make the watch look more polished. Of course Omega had to go with the lollipop seconds hand which I can see them milking a bit going forward since the Spectre Seamaster.

    Perhaps price and popularity are at play. Daytonas go for notably more from I can tell and the Submariner seems to be one of the most popular watches ever.

    Congratulations! Enjoy it!
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by