The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

    Messages:
    729
    Likes Received:
    334
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    Location:
    Hoboken

    I love the size of the 39mm Explorer. Does probably wear more like a 40 but relatively thin so it works well on the wrist.

    On a related note, always a little weary of re-sizing. I agree it can make a huge difference, but sometimes not in a good way - even 1mm might throw off the balance of dial/watch. E.g. Daydate 40 vs Daydate II
     


  2. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

    Messages:
    4,905
    Likes Received:
    1,048
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Location:
    Australia
    1mm size difference can be a good or bad thing depending on your own wrist size and preferences, that's for sure. For my own slimmer wrist, I'd prefer 38mm to 39mm, but 39mm is still good.
     


  3. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

    Messages:
    1,306
    Likes Received:
    217
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2012
    It doesn't look bad, but it also looks rather "naked" to me. Seems small for a dive watch and it looks like the bezel is missing (as it is indeed missing). I absolutely love it though because it gives me hope for a 36mm Ranger.

    It seems to me though that the Black Bay Black is the most popular Black Bay and therefore isn't a sleeper. Good points you made about it though.

    Absolutely, and I can't understand the decision to put the shield on the Black Bay Bronze.

    I would love a 36mm Explorer, but with the same face, etc as the 1016. If only Rolex would do a tribute watch like that... without the rehaut of course.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016


  4. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Senior member

    Messages:
    504
    Likes Received:
    53
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    

    I'm feeling this Monza. Any pricing info? Thanks!
     


  5. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

    Messages:
    953
    Likes Received:
    1,071
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2010
    Location:
    EUR
    
    Also new 3235 movement, less-bloated bezel (likely identical to the Day-Date 40's), new Jubilee bracelet (DJII was Oyster-only), and much better-looking lugs. I'm not thrilled that they kept it at a nominal 41 mm, but I'll take a caliper to it once they arrive in Norway and see what the actual dimensions are; I wouldn't be surprised if they're the same as the DD40's. It certainly looks more refined than the Datejust II.

    The Explorer keeps the 214270 reference number, so I'm not sure I'd call it a new version. There's plenty of precedent for a minor change during a model's production run; they've done it with the 116520 Daytona (fatter hands), 116000 OP (ditto), and 14270 Explorer ("blackout" dial), to name but a few. Not to mention the transition from matte to WG/glossy dials in the '80s on the 5513, 16660, 16750 and 16800.

    The Air-King, on the other hand... :facepalm:

    Three words: Parts. Bin. Special.

    Specifically, it appears to be the Milgauss case/bezel/bracelet (though it could be DJ II — the caliper will soon tell) and pre-2016 Explorer dial blanks, just with some different dial printing and a bit of green paint on the seconds hand (I bet the hands are the same as the new Explorer's, so at least there's one non-old-stock component). Just to get rid of any doubt that it's randomly assembled from leftover components, it even has the older non-Paraflex 3131 movement. Lame-o.


    Edit: No need to wait for confirmation; it's a Milgauss case. They mention its magnetic shielding for the movement in the specifications.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016


  6. bigbadbuff

    bigbadbuff Senior member

    Messages:
    1,752
    Likes Received:
    91
    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2002
    The Explorer and white dial Daytona both look fantastic, though (par for the course for Rolex on most models recently) the Daytona is too busy between the bezel and dial. The thing that kept me away from that model in the past is the lack of contrast, you simply could not read the time on the current models quickly (black and white dials, at least). That could still be the case with the black, looks like the white is now more contrast and that helps a lot.

    One of those will be hard to resist as my next watch.
     


  7. bigbadbuff

    bigbadbuff Senior member

    Messages:
    1,752
    Likes Received:
    91
    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2002
    

    Looks like a train wreck. Awful.
     


  8. Viral

    Viral Senior member

    Messages:
    2,324
    Likes Received:
    152
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2009
    Location:
    Jersey City
    

    like an ugly girl who's sloppy drunk!
     


  9. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

    Messages:
    953
    Likes Received:
    1,071
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2010
    Location:
    EUR
    
    Nothing wrong with the steel bezel. I don't think the ceramic is better, just different, and its bold/high-contrast look seems less versatile. In my opinion, they both look pretty sweet:

    [​IMG]
    image credit: watchanish

    Besides, now your Daytona is OG! :cool:

    Well put. Sure, it's cool to see the new stuff, but decent mechanical watches really ought be an area which isn't so affected by neomania.

    In fact, one could argue that everything new sucks:


    "What has happened in the past ten to twenty years is that manufacturers of consumer products have learned that:

    Consumers are easily misled and will buy based on features that have numeric specifications attached to them, since they lack the skills and experience to appreciate more subtle, but more fundamental, quality differences."

    Mind you, the watch industry isn't entirely immune; it's a lot easier to market gee-whiz specs than it is to communicate how something is made without cutting corners.
    :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016


  10. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,734
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    +1

    I like the looks of both. However, even with a 116520 (or its predecessor) not being dress watches, the steel bezel helped dress them up enough that I could comfortably wear them with a suit for work. The new ceramic bezel Daytona crosses the line into pure sports watch territory, and at least for my line of work, I couldn't wear it with a suit.
     


  11. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,439
    Likes Received:
    4,790
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Interesting point. I have to say that on cool reflection, I think the steel bezeled versions are still better looking. Maybe it's because there is so much ceramic around from different makers. The black on black one looks particularly un-Rolex now. Not that either of the new versions is ugly or anything. I'll say it straight: the non-ceramic models look more classy imho.

    Having said that, I laughed at the Playtona when it came out. Then I saw it for real and literally dreamed about it. Rolex is a powerful demon indeed.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016


  12. DLJr

    DLJr TWAT Master.

    Messages:
    1,673
    Likes Received:
    918
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Location:
    Philly Burbs
    Agree with this, though it's probably a bit too bold for me. Now if they went back to a brushed bracelet, then maybe the aesthetic would work better for me personally. In the update, I like the black dial version better because I think it hides the "in your face-ness" (if that's a thing) of the new bezel. I prefer the white dial version of the previous model for the reason Dino listed, and I prefer the previous generation model as a whole in general. Hooray for non-ceramic bezels.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016


  13. Omega Male

    Omega Male Senior member

    Messages:
    195
    Likes Received:
    194
    Joined:
    May 30, 2013
    Location:
    Leafy Surrey
    Agree with Dino about the higher contrast of the ceramic bezel taking the new Daytonas in a sportier direction. The watch definitely "pops" more -- whether you like that is going to be down to personal taste. To me, it actually helps counterbalance the "bling" of the polished center links, as these are no longer reinforced by a silver bezel and silver chapter rings.
     


  14. Winot

    Winot Senior member

    Messages:
    480
    Likes Received:
    329
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    Exactly this. And the reason why it's the first Daytona I've been tempted by.
     


  15. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

    Messages:
    10,311
    Likes Received:
    13,100
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2011
    Location:
    Bay Area, CA
    To paraphrase something from another non-watch enthusiast forum:

    Please sell me all of your old unwanted Daytonas so that you can go buy the new ones. :lol:
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by