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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

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  1. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Senior member

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    I thought this article might be of interest to people here, seeing as how wearing a watch (no matter how dressy) with black tie attire leads more often that not to heated debates!

    Thoughts?
     
  2. kimmo

    kimmo Senior member

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    Black tie, might wear. White, no.

    Also the fact that a wristwatch is an early 20th century thing (or very late 19th century) and pocket watches were prevalent on the day these etiquettes were created, should probably be considered.
     
  3. robw

    robw Senior member

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    I have gone back and forth on the watch with black tie thing. I have worn my Reverso, a BP 7002 and a blue dial DJ when I did wear a watch.

    As it happens we attended a black tie wedding this past Sunday. I went sans watch this time. I think just about every guy I noticed wore a watch. I saw plenty of watches, eg all types of Rolex, AP ROs, and a few PPs that would hardly qualify as dress watches. I am sure no one noticed that I wasn't wearing a watch and no one cared.
     
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I don't wear a watch with either white tie or black tie. My formal shirt cuffs are cut close to the wrist so they cannot accommodate a watch. I notice lots of men wear watches with formal wear, including thick huge watches.
     
  5. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    IF you do wear a watch with black tie, make sure it's a subtle and small piece, preferably with a black leather strap. That's the best way to go if you choose to wear a watch at all.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    I was just about to ask what others think of the DJ as a "dress watch." As I have been looking at chronos, it occurred to me that I don't really have a true dress watch. My 1965 DJ is the closest, but not sure the bracelet works for formal.

    I do love the Reverso as a dress watch.

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  7. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I don't possess white tie so hadn't really considered it. But with black tie, I'd just follow the same general principle as the rest of the attire: minimal, smart and stylish. And that's the general principle. Just as I frequently wear a cream DJ instead of a black one, or someone might pull off a fantastic velvet smoking jacket with absolute aplomb, I'm sure some unusual watch choices could work with the right attitude. But if in doubt, less is more.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. bigbadbuff

    bigbadbuff Senior member

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    Unfortunately (don't know if this is a Rolex policy, this store's, etc.) the exchange/return policy may not be as great as I thought. I went over to the AD today and they are telling me if they have it in stock in one of their 5 stores (one possible combo I'm interested in they do, the other 2 they do not), it's a 30 day no questions asked. If they have to order it from Rolex, that return/exchange window doesn't apply (it's a 'special order'). That really sucks and basically means if I don't get that exact combo they have in stock, I lose the prime benefit of going with an AD in my situation. Hmm...

    On the plus side I got to see a BLNR and white face Daytona for the first time. Very nice... they did act like they were letting me in on the world's best kept secret to even see the Daytona. As much as I liked the Daytona I would have a hard time treating it like I want this next watch to be treated. Today I liked the GMTiiC (black), Tudor BB w/blue and black bezels, and (surprisingly) the SD4000. The Tudors are very nice for the money, they alllmost feel like Rolex for less than 1/2 the cost.
     
  9. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    @scottcw I would say that's a lovely choice for the purpose. I like the black 1931 too.

    @ShawnBC One more thought on the article: my only objection to Clymer there is that he has taken his enormous phablet to the dinner table and is playing with it. Now that has no place with your dinner suit - leave the damn thing in the car!
     
    3 people like this.
  10. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    The pic is actually from an eBay auction for a vintage late '30s watch. My only hesitation is that the dial has been refinished and the seller can't provide details. The seller's response to my inquiry was, "The dealer who supplied this one is beyond repute and we did a lot of checking to make sure everything was right and the dial style is identical to the original design."
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
  11. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Now then, @flvinny521 , my "Enabler" honour is at stake here. I will have to try harder. Here are some other options for steel all-rounders on bracelets, no smaller than your 38mm dress watch, but no bigger than 40mm to keep proportion to your wrist size and not look like you're trying too hard:

    Firstly, to reiterate @TheWraith 's suggestion, the Aqua Terra's a beauty. If it has to be new, then a perfectly sized quartz version is bang on the money. I like the grey dial. $1700ish at Jomashop.com

    [​IMG]

    If it has to be automatic, then there is still plenty to play with. I like that Oris of yours, I really do, but I can't help sense that a more prestigious brand image might be a bonus? We'll get there. There are also a lot of well-known but more accessible brands with a wide range of steel all-rounders in this price range, with some decent looking things from Maurice Lacroix, Frederique Constant and Raymond Weil. I don't know enough about the former two but they've never excited me. The latter I respect but my friend's had a lot of service and reliability issues with his two recent ones, so I couldn't recommend them based on my own knowledge.

    Ehe Swatch Group seem to have a massive showing at this point - with discounts to impress: Rado I don't like personally, Union I don't find anything special despite my love for most things German, Certina doesn't ring my bell nor Mido, and Tissot I find brilliant value at the $3-500 mark, but out-gunned here.

    There are two Swatch brands worth your looking at, I think: Longines I find great value (check out previous posts on the column wheel chrono - might suit), and has too many options in this range to list. Do a quick internet search yourself, check out the main discounters like Jomashop, Amazon etc, and you'll see a lot. Here are a couple of samplers, $1300 and $1900 respectively:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




    To complete the Swatch Group set, there's one I'd recommend from Hamilton: they do a nice version of the Jazzmaster at not much over a K, with a clean dial and small seconds on a bracelet. I like it.

    [​IMG]


    A couple of members here have bought the JeanRichard Terrascope recently. Ashford.com have various models, some on bracelets, and rotate weekly sale offers putting many of them at about the $1k bracket. I think they're great looking, and lots of dials and configurations to choose from. This one's on offer right now.

    [​IMG]


    A quick nod to Damasko as mentioned above, for something different: just under the limit price wise.

    [​IMG]


    Now, let's get stuck into the Germans. I do like a lot of the Germans in this price range. One maker we haven't mentioned for a while is Junghans. They have some very distinctive design in their Meister and Max Bill collections. Even their more expensive automatic options are around the $1500 mark. A Meister and a Max Bill chrono:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Another German independent that gets a lot of love here, and going back to your initial pilot theme, is Sinn. The classic, cleaner 556 comes in various dial options for about $1300, and the nigh-iconic 356 chronograph around the $1700 mark. Both brilliant.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    There are a few contenders from the auspicious birthplace of Glashuette, too. As I said, I found the Union offerings a bit dull, and not much fun from Tutima. But I've a big soft spot for Muehle, and I like the utilitarian clarity of their Terrasport II:

    [​IMG]



    Now, I said above that I've a feeling you might want a brand with a bit of recognition. That's not a criticism or an accusation of vanity by any means! It is part of the value that I think most of us recognise, especially for something that you're planning to keep as you said. And, let's get real here: this is a present from your better half, so there's got to be an advantage in its being made by someone she has heard of. How about Bulgari?

    [​IMG]

    You won't see one of those every day. But if that's a bit too unusual, then I think there might be an obvious brand to suit your purpose here. It's not one that's always loved here, I think perhaps a little unfairly: when it comes in at under $2k new, the designs have a long history and a distinctly recognisable style, the ebauche movements and perceived ubiquity matter not a bit in my view. Here are a couple of my favourites among their offerings. These are great looking watches from the venerable house of Heuer. Or, as your beloved might know them better, TagHeuerZenithHublot-LouisVuittonMoetHennessy.

    [​IMG]



    That's the more understated option, and various dials etc are available for all. But my personal, more sporty favourite is below. I like the blue slightly more than the black or white, but they're all so recognisable, perfectly sized at 40.5mm, sporty but not too showy with the plain steel bezel, and a steal at $1350 brand new:

    [​IMG]

    Now there are a lot of choices here, and everyone one of them a good one in my book. But if you narrow it to autos and give her your short list, I bet she picks this last one!

    [All pics and prices from current listings at chrono24.com, except JeanRichard from Ashford.com]
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
    5 people like this.
  12. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    LS Saxonia Moonphase. Thoughts?

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  13. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    @mimo , that suggestion of the Sinn 556 (a or i) is a great suggestion for what he is looking for. Your enabler title is safe.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. atia2

    atia2 Senior member

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    Two beauties, IMHO. I guess I'm a sucker for light dials. Great ideas.
     
  15. Omega Male

    Omega Male Senior member

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    Picture is AWOL, but my thought is "yes, please."

    [​IMG]

    For most, it will probably turn on whether or not you like a big date. The rest is fairly irreproachable.
     
  16. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Can't see your linked picture, not for the first time. But every Lange is seared into my brain so it doesn't matter. Thoughts? Well, although I love the brand and most of their offerings, this one falls between two stools for me: it's not quite clean and simple enough to be a delightful dress watch - the standard Saxonia with small seconds, or the dual time, fit the bill better. At the other end of the scale, I really like the Langematik Perpetual. The busy dial and whatnot are divisive here in TheWAT, but for me the big date works better among a collection of other elements. Perhaps it would also work completely alone.

    But here, I can't quite love it - a sneering cyclops that I can't unsee! That's a very subjective view of course, and as a watch in itself, it's going to be a fantastic machine. I like the white version a bit more, and I don't hate either of them. I just think that either more simple or more complicated is the way to go, especially with a new model that's going to be hard to find for now with a good discount: Lange 1 Moonphase mint used for less money, or a simple Saxonia, would be my vote.


    Haha...will see what the man himself ends up with! But that is a great watch for sure. Even Belligero might approve.

    I chose mostly grey or black dials because Vinny's first two choices had them, but actually every watch I picked out has a white and/or silver dial option. They are pretty though.
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  17. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    I received an email about a new limited edition blue dial Stowa Marine Original. I'm itching for a blue dial watch on a strap, but something about this seems too busy.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Is it my imagination or are the numbers larger than the standard MO? Perhaps not. But I think what's jarring is the newer Stowa logo: the old one has an oversized "S" that has a lightly old-fashioned, hand-drawn feel. The new logo has the emblem to the left and the caps. It looks too modern for the century old design. Maybe that's it.

    Aside from that, is there really anything special about having a blue version? The original was white, there's already a non-traditional black option. This edition seems like something of a token. Meh. Now, if they were to make a dial that was all lume, with hand-painted numbers over the top of it, that would be a nod to the real heritage, and a worthwhile limited edition.
     
  19. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    The white numbers on the blue background are what bother me the most. It makes them very pronounced, even more so than on the traditional MO. What I would like to see for a limited edition is an Antea with no numbers.
     
  20. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Going back to the enabling post above, both the Junghans Meister Chrono and the Tag Carrera come with a blue dial and strap for not too much over a grand (new). If you're weird, the Meistersinger No 3 looks great in blue, again similar price. To name but a few.

    I'm also surprised to see that an Omega DeVille comes in at just over $2k brand new these days too. If it didn't have a day counter it would be beautiful. They all need new straps though: I can't bear the idea of a stamped croc pattern in cow skin. Fake is fake!
     

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