The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. simondg

    simondg Active Member

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    On the subject of current chronographs, a quick question.

    In the sub $5,000 chrono bracket it seems that one is mainly looking at standard movements with a chrono module added (Tudor, Sinn, TAG, Longines, etc.). Whereas the interesting manufacture chrono movements all seem to come in in the $10,000 range (Rolex, Omega, GP, JLC, Breitling, Cartier, etc.).

    I was wondering if there are any chronos in the lower range that stand out as punching above their weight in terms of their movement? Or are the distinctions in this range pretty much based on case design, bracelets, etc.?
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016


  2. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    The 1964 Carrera from a few days ago with the Lemania movement is awesome value for money. Other than that, GP has used similar Lemania-based movements, and these can often be found for well under the $5K mark.

    Nothing wrong with 7750s, either. I just wouldn't pay a big premium for one.
     


  3. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    +1

    Longines 688 column wheel chrono movement is made by ETA and derived from the venerable 7750, but it's solely for that maker and comes in under $2k new in some very cool options. It's not going to impress any dick wavers at the yacth club, but I like looking into the back of it. :)
     


  4. simondg

    simondg Active Member

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  5. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    By the way, further to Belligero's comments on Girard Perregaux: the 60's Chronograph he wears has versions around under $3k used for the hand wound Lemania. I think it's gorgeous.

    There's also the Richeville, in a classic tonneau case, that's even cheaper. That comes in the hand-wound Lemania version (says "Richeville" on the dial, round pushers) or the 7750-derived version (says "Automatic" on the dial, rectangular pushers).
     


  6. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Mimo, I think that particular GP model actually has a Dubois-Dupraz chrono module added to the base movement.

    Later 1966 chronographs do use an in-house GP movement, but I don't think that's one of them.
     


  7. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Enlightenment is always welcome. This thread rocks.
     


  8. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    Definitely. I haven't visited TRF WUS TZ or other forums in months because of this thread. You guys do an awesome job with it.

    Oh and I love the espresso shots on the previous page. Few things more enjoyable in life than a proper espresso...which is rare.
     


  9. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    The watch looks too big on you, I have had my Big Pilot for a while now but don't wear it much probably due to the size and I have a 7 inch wrist, going to flip this in the future. [​IMG]
     


  10. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

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    Just got this in. Super underrated watch. It's way too big for me, but for someone with big wrists it's an absolute killer. I can't believe people are paying more for RM011s than these!!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2016


  11. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    I think there's a fair bit of crossover among those who get into coffee and people who dig watches.

    If you don't mind a bit of off-topic posting, I gotta say that both appeal to me for many of the same reasons, as they each potentially offer a surprising level of detail to appreciate. Similarly, mechanical watches and quality espresso gear are essentially-mature technologies, so the good stuff tends to last a long time and retain its value.

    Unlike a watch, however, it's not that tough to do a full service yourself on espresso equipment. Right now, I'm restoring an older Elektra lever machine. It's looking a bit neglected, and I had to hotwire past the broken power switch to get it going again, but everything else still works well even after sitting unused for about four years. This particular model has been in continuous production since the '60s, and factory replacements can be had for every single component. I've already descaled it, so with a few gaskets and small fittings, it'll be functionally as-new. I'll also try to brighten it up a bit; I don't think there's a collector market that values original "patina" on these things:

    [​IMG]

    It's not necessary to have a lot of bulky equipment taking over your kitchen to enjoy good coffee at home, either. The espresso stuff is more for relaxed weekends and guests; I mainly brew on the simple and perfect Aeropress, which only costs about 25 bucks. That and a half-decent burr grinder are all you need for a world-class cup at home, provided you have quality beans. Skål!
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016


  12. robw

    robw Senior member

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    If you are open to buying second hand maybe watches from the 90s and 00s a couple of quality prices that come to mind, besides some of the others mentioned, are the Blancpain Flyback and Brequet type XX. You can buy those for around 5k and they are certainly up there in terms of quality and workmanship, in my opinion. You can also buy an IWC 3706 or 3712 for under 5k. Both very well made pieces although they do use 7750 movements.

    I own a type xx in gold and will probably never part with it.
     


  13. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    sooooo new wave.

    [​IMG]

    1985
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016


  14. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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  15. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    Interesting. I know a lot of people like bronze for the exact reason that it patinas so dramatically and uniquely. Strange IMO to have a bronze case that would not have this inherent property..
     


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