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Ebitdaddy

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Habring2 Globetrotter. Pretty cool indie brand. Not sure about cost.

Chrono_Felix_Globetrotter_-0952b108521c8cb93e344fd3c28947cf.jpg

They do some cool stuff but always a little boring at the price point VS other watches.
 

chocomallo

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Hah! Re: 215. However, disagree on the Reverso numbers. Arabic numbers on the night ampersand day, were good.
In the sober light of day, I reverse my judgment of the Arabic numerals. I’ve got to use these fleeting moments of clarity wisely, thinking about watches I have no interest in even trying on.
 

Omega Male

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A blast from the past.

 

Dino944

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Is there any reason specifically to opt for a new sub from this year VS any time in the last ~10 years or so? Most changes seem pretty incremental?
Each have it's merits. I have a 40 MM Sub LV from 2005. It's a classic Sub, with the SEL bracelet, but hollow center links stamped steel clasp and stamped steel extension link. It's tough enough to withstand anything just about you can Subject it too. The dimensions are perfect, and I like the shade of green on its bezel more than the all solid green bezel of the current Starbucks Sub. I also like it more than the Hulk, which had a beautiful dial, but the bezel just looked ugly against it.

That being said, I have a new 41 MM Sub no Date, and I really think it's a modern classic. It has the looks we have come to expect from a Sub, great proportions and narrower lugs again. The quality is significantly better especially in terms of bracelet and clasp feel, and the micro adjustment clasp is really nice.

When I wear my 2005 Sub, I feel like it's all you need for a classic Rolex diving watch. Then I put on the new one and it's like wearing a classic Sub, but the improvements make it look and feel even nicer. Try on some vintage and a new one and see how you feeling about them.
 

Ebitdaddy

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When I wear my 2005 Sub, I feel like it's all you need for a classic Rolex diving watch. Then I put on the new one and it's like wearing a classic Sub, but the improvements make it look and feel even nicer. Try on some vintage and a new one and see how you feeling about them.

Interesting. Kind of mirrors my experience owning an older datejust. It just felt a little cheaper/jankier than the current gen.
 

9thsymph

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Interesting. Kind of mirrors my experience owning an older datejust. It just felt a little cheaper/jankier than the current gen.
But proportions haven’t changed nearly as much on the DJ (36). The difference in appearance between 5-digit sub, maxi-case ceramic and 41mm is rather stark imo
 

double00

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But proportions haven’t changed nearly as much on the DJ (36). The difference in appearance between 5-digit sub, maxi-case ceramic and 41mm is rather stark imo

I don't think i've seen a Tudor in-person but it seems like those divers are closer to vintage proportions ?
 

Thin White Duke

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Are there any decent-looking chronographs in the ~$5k price range that also (1) have a GMT function; and (2) do not have a totally cluttered dial? Whether there are two or three chronograph subdials is not important.
Good question.
I generally like chronographs but don’t use the function all that often. Most of my watches have dive bezels which work well enough for timing events.
I do like GMT functions and think it’s the most practical of watch features beyond H/M/S//D.

Take a look at Bremont. They did a Boeing chrono with subtle GMT scale on the rehaut and a dive bezel. Three subdials. I remember almost pulling the trigger on one several years ago for about $3.6k but I couldn’t stomach the 4 o clock date that was a deal breaker for me.

Jazzmenco on the PMW thread often shows a GMT chrono - I forget the brand but you could trawl the thread and see it. My main beef with his is a very short GMT hand.

My holy grail is a (non chrono) dive watch with a dive bezel, GMT hand with subtle 24 hour scale on the rehaut and both day and date windows. I didn’t know such a thing existed but apparently Ball has the movement unfortunately with a fugly dial. I tried to create this with a Seiko mod but couldn’t combine all the features sonhad to forego the date. This won’t be to the taste of some of the more refined TWATs but I post it here for reference in case anyone’s interested. The idea was to create the ultimate vacation watch ready for the beach, diving plus GMT for the time back home!
IMG_9751.jpeg


Edited to add - instead of a GMT hand have you considered a 12 hour bezel? It’s an easy-to-read way to see time in a separate time zone and avoids the clutter of some GMT dials.

(It so happens I’m selling my Heuer Autavia (note it’s a Heuer not a Tag!😁) bought new in 2017, three subdials with the date subtly inserted at 6 o clock within the running seconds subdial. $3.5k shipped conusa!)
 
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Thin White Duke

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Each have it's merits. I have a 40 MM Sub LV from 2005. It's a classic Sub, with the SEL bracelet, but hollow center links stamped steel clasp and stamped steel extension link. It's tough enough to withstand anything just about you can Subject it too. The dimensions are perfect, and I like the shade of green on its bezel more than the all solid green bezel of the current Starbucks Sub. I also like it more than the Hulk, which had a beautiful dial, but the bezel just looked ugly against it.

That being said, I have a new 41 MM Sub no Date, and I really think it's a modern classic. It has the looks we have come to expect from a Sub, great proportions and narrower lugs again. The quality is significantly better especially in terms of bracelet and clasp feel, and the micro adjustment clasp is really nice.

When I wear my 2005 Sub, I feel like it's all you need for a classic Rolex diving watch. Then I put on the new one and it's like wearing a classic Sub, but the improvements make it look and feel even nicer. Try on some vintage and a new one and see how you feeling about them.
Good post Dino. Largely concurred!
I never did warm to the super size cases of the semi-recent subs and really prefer the proportions - especially the narrower lugs - of the pre-and post supersize versions.
My sub is from that sweet spot vintage around 2010 with the engraved rehaut but just before they supersized the cases. I wouldn’t mind one of the recent ones but they’re very hard to come by. The fella in my local dealer said he had 500 on the waiting list for a basic SS black face sub. If he got one in each week it would take ten years to clear the list - and he’s not getting one each week!😀
 

Ebitdaddy

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The fella in my local dealer said he had 500 on the waiting list for a basic SS black face sub. If he got one in each week it would take ten years to clear the list - and he’s not getting one each week!😀

Not a good way to look at it because many people would drop off if they couldn't make a profit reselling. If demand cools it wouldn't be linear, it would be exponential.

It's like how AP values keep dropping aggressively.
 

brax

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What about when wearing jean shorts?

I'm always intrigued when you post your rotation/use cases. Seems like a good idea in theory. How strictly do you adhere to it?
Sorry for the late response but I’ve been off the forum for a while.
I adhere to it pretty well but not because of dogmatism. Rather it is just an easy plan to effectuate. Now if one of the watches is unavailable for whatever reason, I have no problem substituting another in its place but it doesn’t happen often.
 

Thin White Duke

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Not a good way to look at it because many people would drop off if they couldn't make a profit reselling. If demand cools it wouldn't be linear, it would be exponential.

It's like how AP values keep dropping aggressively.
Well this may be true but my anecdote works as a rough gauge of where Rolex supply and demand are right now …

Also I keep hearing that Rolex production is ramping up post-Covid and that demand is sliding due to some people having given up their desire, which may also be true but I’m yet to notice this being reflected in grey market pricing although I admit I’ve only done cursory research into that. The big step-down in grey market pricing and/or the big increase in the ease of buying retail that have been predicted don’t seem to have moved much although I’m happy to be corrected if this is no longer the case!
 

pmeis

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My take on the Sub's current gen vs last gen, is that the current gen is better proportioned and aesthetically more pleasing, but thanks to the slightly wider bracelet wears bigger than the previous gen. This is neither good nor bad, just a thing.
 

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