The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    Don't love the new ones. I think it's a good watch at the right price point. I do like @Dino944 suggestion of the oldest 2000 series. Very classy.

    Here was mine from years and years ago


    [​IMG]


     


  2. robw

    robw Senior member

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    Good under the radar choice. It is a little awkward in terms of its functionality but definitely not a Rolex sub.

    That said, I don't think I would get one. Just a matter of personal choice. Cool watch though
     


  3. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    Pretty easy to get one of the older 40mm FF. They were generally less than 5k, but I haven't looked at them for a while. The same superb X-71 bracelet as the larger model.

    left
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2016


  4. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    Or, you could try one of these:

    [​IMG]
     


  5. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    Is it true that you can't turn off the alarm? So it would sound at least once a day?
     


  6. CHRK33

    CHRK33 Senior member

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    I am not sure if the Vulcain functions the same way, but on my JLC Tribute to DSA, if you wind the alarm crown fully, the alarm will sound at the appointed time (on a 12 hr cadence). You can't turn it off but you just don't have to fully wind it. If you make that mistake once in the middle of the night, you will learn rather quickly. I love my DSA - the alarm function is anachronistic but super charming.
     


  7. zippyh

    zippyh Senior member

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    Even if the alarm isn't wound up, at the time the alarm is set, movement of your wrist will make the striker hit the gong.
     


  8. zippyh

    zippyh Senior member

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    Lack of crown guards was one of the things that drew me to the AT.

    [​IMG]
     


  9. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

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    Based on the options in your post I'd definitely go with a no-date Sub, especially if you're going to be a "one watch" guy or if you're only considering one dive watch or similar looking watch for your collection. I'm not a fan of the dates on Rolexs, though it wouldn't keep me from getting one of the models I like, and that's another reason for me. I also think it's the most versatile and most classic Rolex of the ones you've listed. The Fifty Fathoms really doesn't do much for me. To each their own of course and they have a lot of history there.

    I've been considering a dive watch for some time now and I have yet to really nail one down that I love. I think there have been some good recommendations here though and a few that I like. The Black Bay looks like a nice watch and I think it's one of the best watches, dive watch or not, that you can get for that kind of money. I also like it in every colorway, but I think if you want to get the best of both Worlds that Black Bay offers then the Black Bay Blue is the best choice. You still get the Heritage styling, but it also passes better than the other two as a modern looking watch.

    A couple of other watches mentioned were the JLC options. I only own JLCs, though I'm definitely a fan of other watches and don't buy based on brand name (though some brands speak to me more than others), so keep that in mind. That said another diver that I've really wanted was the Tribute to Deep Sea Alarm. In fact I came very close to purchasing one before the seller got lazy. I think that either the American or the European version is great, though I prefer the latter (I think), and both offer great looking styling if you're into a heritage look. They're also excellent tributes to a great original watch. I actually like the alarm function and would definitely use it. I also think that the dual crowns are unique. From what I understand though the bezel doesn't rotate, so keep that in mind if that might be an issue. Also, as mentioned, I like the Tribute Deep Sea Chronograph. Again, great vintage styling, but if that's not your thing then perhaps the non-Vintage reference.

    Another watch I'll throw out there is the Seamaster 300m Master Co-axial. Again, I like the tribute watches and the stainless steel version does a great job of that. Still it's a modern looking watch as well and more so than say the Tribute JLCs. While I like the Spectre edition, I actually prefer the standard reference. And if the polished bits on the bracelet aren't your thing I have heard that Omega can get a polished bracelet. Also like the lack of crown guards.

    At the end of the day go with what speaks to you the most. I would just tell you to really take your time. None of the watches you're considering or that have been recommended are going anyway and the more you look into them and actually literally look at them the likelier you'll come to the right decision in the end.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2016


  10. atia2

    atia2 Senior member

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    Isn't that true of almost all high-end divers, including Rolex?
     


  11. atia2

    atia2 Senior member

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    Now that I find very stylish. The bezel colour and raised markers defy recent conventions. The dial is simple and clean. The overall look is understated and refined, with a suggestion of heavy industry.

    What's the model number?
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2016


  12. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Looks like the IWC GST Aquatimer 3536. Unfortunately, it's an old model, so I don't think that it is part of IWC's current lineup. From memory, it came in a choice of steel or titanium.

    If you like the look of the IWC, you might also like some of Sinn's diving watches:

    U1:

    [​IMG]
    U200:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2016


  13. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    Squale also have a long history of diver's watches
     


  14. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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  15. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    Get the Rolex.

    Years ago, I never thought that I'd say that. Unfortunately, there's a lot of propaganda out there about how they're pretty much the same as generic ETA-movement stuff, and all about the marketing.

    My discussions with watchmakers that have legitimate expertise and experience to back up their opinions made me realize how much respect Rolex gets from them, and that certain internet experts were way off. They're a company with impeccable manufacturing integrity; they make nearly everything from scratch at their own facilities — the few bits that they don't, such as the handsets, come from their traditional suppliers in Switzerland — and don't use the surprisingly-weak requirements for "Swiss Made" to cut costs with cheap-labour-sourced components.

    Being a fully-independent privately-owned manufacture — one that doesn't have grabastic shareholders pressuring them to squeeze out short-term gains at the expense of long-term reputation — is a very rare thing within any industry, especially for a company of their size. As such, they've definitely earned my trust.

    You won't find a Chinese-made bracelet on a Submariner, for example. Likewise, you won't find the same finish quality as a $50 ETA movement once you get under the visible plates:

    [​IMG]
    image credit: watchguy.co.uk

    Despite the number of people who buy Rolex that don't give a crap about anything but the name, they remain a hardcore watchmaker producing high-quality, no-excuses watches that are built to last. They're pretty good at keeping water out, too. :)

    Given what you're looking for, I doubt you'd regret choosing one.



    Thanks; I find that it's fun to wear and certainly different than the typical Sub-a-like stuff out there. It's a nice option to have, especially if there are a few more-conventional watches in the rotation.

    Would I choose it as an only diver's watch (or only watch, period) over my Sea-Dweller? Probably not. On the other hand, I don't find it particularly awkward as far as manual-wind watches go; it has a well-thought-out movement, and these Crickets served many people well as a portable and practical everyday alarm before digital watches and mobile phones made them obsolete.

    Also, it can be had on the secondary market for about half the price of a Rolex diver's model, and it's one of the very few out there that's comparable in terms of design integrity. The Vulcain even has a bit of its own story in the early days of diving. Being the essentially the same watch that was available in 1961 (except for the radioactive bits) is unique in the industry, as far as I know. And you can still use it underwater today.

    The movement doesn't look too shabby, either:

    [​IMG]
    image credit: Vulcain

    I think it not only offers good value for money, but that it's also something of a special watch regardless of price.



    The alarm can be disabled at any time via the pusher.

    I usually leave the alarm spring wound down, which makes it silent except for the period when the alarm would be going off, at which time there can be a bit of rattle from the hammer dealie being free to swing around. A half-press of the pusher silences this, and also stops the alarm from sounding when its spring is wound up. A full press extends the crown into alarm-setting mode, while pulling the crown out normally sets the time. Turn the crown clockwise to wind the alarm spring, and counterclockwise to wind the mainspring.

    The only notable quirk is that the time setting is forward-only to prevent mangling things inside, so if you overshoot, you have to go around again. The keyless works are quick and effortless to operate, so this takes about four extra seconds.

    All the movement-related functions are controlled by the pusher and the 3-o'clock crown. The second crown is only for rotating the decompression table and internal pip.

    All this probably sounds more complicated than it is. In practice, it's intuitive; after doing it once, you don't even have to think about it. (I can't say the same about remembering which way adjusts the date and which way advances the second time zone on my 356 UTC.) One final thing to note: the alarm on this thing is loud. :teach:


    Yes, but the difference is that those companies are plagiarizing elements that Rolex originated, whereas the Bathyscaphe appears to be drafted the other way around; it looks like it's taken its design cues from low-end watches. And that bezel is inexcusable at any price. ;)
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2016


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