Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.
I've always loved the Ulysse Nardin Marine Diver/Blue Max.
I have an irrational prejudice against Ulysse Nardin that I can't explain. I would be happy to be enlightened.
Also much cheaper; and the BB was mentioned. But yes, for a less showy option, the BB sings loud I think.
.... and The Monster is also perfect ... in its own way
@rnguy001 I find that Rolex watches - especially recent ones - wear perfectly on me. I used to own a smattering of other watches (IWC, JLC, Omega, Sinn), but I traded all of them out for 40mm Rolex sport watches (GMT, Sub, Daytona, Explorer II). They mesh with my style well and they wear perfectly, at least for me. My only non-Rolex is an AP Royal Oak, and I wouldn't put that in the same ballpark for comfort. It just looks much cooler.
One of my friends said "you can always tell a Rolex because it looks like God made it." Biased opinion to be sure (he's a Rolex dealer), but I find that they have a pretty optimal fit and finish.
The BLNR is possibly my favorite watch ever. It's really perfect in a lot of ways. If it's got your eye, I don't think that you'd regret it. And if you grab it second-hand from a reputable dealer than you can always flip it at minimal loss if you find something you like better down the road. It's a hell of a lot easier to trade in or sell a Rolex than most other Swiss models. I took a bath on all of my trade-ins, especially the Omegas.
A friend had a UN years ago. One of the draws of the UN was that it was different from a Rolex and a lot of people at work had a Rolex. The UN that my friend chose was a basic San Marco purchased new from an AD. However, it constantly had problems and was always going back for repairs. After a while my friend regretted not simply buying a Datejust. The watch went back under warranty 3 times in less than 2 years, and if their service department couldn't fix or repair a basic time only piece, by the second time, it doesn't inspire much confidence in their service division. No UNs for me.
Interesting options. Breitling is pretty well known (around here), and I always find them a bit blingy...so I'd probably take the "too recongnizable to ever be subtle" Rolex.
Panerai is a cool watch. I love the case shape, but its so chunky that it isn't very subtle. More importantly, I just never found them to be comfortable on my wrist (maybe my wrist just isn't big enough to carry its shape).
BP again always fall flat for me.
As for the Seahawk, they used to be much more traditional years ago. The current version, with its asymmetric crown location and shoulders to protect it, always looks a bit like it was left near a blow torch and it started melting. Below is a 1990s GP Seahawk. Perhaps I'm biased from owning Subs or maybe after owning Subs, other diving watches, either seem like they are trying too hard not to be Subs that they end up too weird looking (modern GP Seahawk), or I don't see the designs of others as something I would still want to own in 5-10 years. For $10K or less (new), I struggle to come up with a substitute I'd choose over a Sub.
Super under the radar. https://omegaforums.net/data/attachments/16/16534-240c0e053c103b615f9b700c729a12a4.jpg Sorry can't post normal pictures for some reason from work.
Hard to disagree with the choice of a Submariner or other Rolex in the diver type watch category. In general, I think the Sub is one of the top all-around watch choices. IMO if you could only own one watch, the Sub would be one of the top contenders, probably the contender.
As far as other diver watches go if you don't want to go Rolex, I always liked the JLC Deep Sea chrono. I suppose the chrono function might take it out of the pure diver category and I don't know if it will work well enough if you plan to actually dive with it, but I think it is a pretty cool watch. Definitely does not look like a sub wannabe but has the diver look. I believe JLC has some other dive type watches but this is the one I like.
I think it retails for around 10k but it is not hard to find with some discount or even second hand.
+1 to all that. There is also the Deep Sea Alarm, or the "Vintage" version of the Deep Sea Chronograph that has just the two subdials and the pseudo-aged lume. They're all around mint used for $6-8k i.e. current model Sub territory. The ceramic ("Cermet") version of the chrono is a bit more pricey.
They are only rated to 10ATM, so not quite up to proper dive watch standards - hence not in my oddball Sub alternative list. But I like them.
Any IWC Aquatimer fans? I don't normally think of them (or JLC) as much for hardcore sports models, but they both have a bit of tradition as such.
Those Deep Seas are pretty hot, mimo...I agree. Probably would prefer the alarm version over the chronograph myself.
Add rarebirds.de to your list of sites to watch. On the other hand, I suspect they are very much responsible for the recent Camaro inflation, but they do have nice pieces.
Really biased here, but did take a hard look on all the ~5-10k$ dive / chrono watches (Sub, 50 fathoms, Omega, UN etc) and finally landed on the JLC. If you really need something you can bang into a rock at 50 m deep, Sub probably is the tool watch to choose but for the desk diving duties / general leisurely watch around, I'd say JLC has more character. And still love the chrono indicator!
At one point in time I liked the old Aquatimer 2000, based on their GST line. However, a former professional diver/underwater welder posted on another forum, that any watch without shoulders to protect the crown isn't really intended for serious diving. He said all it takes is one good whack against something solid underwater and the crown/tube is bent/compromised allowing water to get into the case. I don't dive so it wouldn't be a concern to me. However, it does seem like an important omission for a true diving/tool watch.
As for the current Aquatimers...I think they look kind of cheap and plasticky.
As a lesser-known-alternative diver's watch, the Vulcain Nautical Cricket has a lot going for it: legit diving history, unique movement, useful alarm complication, original design...
About the only snag is that it's 42 mm, the same as it was in 1961.
It's like the Speedmaster of 300-m-rated watches in that it's visually unchanged almost six decades after its introduction, right down to the plexi crystal. Well, except that Vulcain didn't cheap out on the movement over the years.
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