The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,677
    Likes Received:
    1,991
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    The Globemaster, even the standard steel version is a dog! The combination of the chunky case, pie pan dial and narrow fluting of the bezel are a hideous combination. In addition, I can't see the Globemaster getting a pass by the "Regulars" on this thread, if it were sold by Rolex. From what I have seen, even the most ardent Rolex fans here dole out plenty of criticism of various current Rolex watches. Several of us didn't like the proportions of the 41mm Day-Date or Datejust. I find the DeepSea ridiculous in terms of size, top heavy, and IMHO its proportions make the bracelet seem too small for it. Other's here complain about the hand length of the current Explorer. However, IMHO, the worst looking watch they make is the Yachtmaster II. Its just goofy looking, and having it say Yachtmaster II on the bezel is just obnoxious. Now maybe on other forums people give some watches a pass, but most people here are very detail oriented and an ugly watch is an ugly watch regardless of maker. Cheers!
     
  2. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

    Messages:
    4,885
    Likes Received:
    1,010
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2009
    Location:
    Australia
    ^ +1
     
  3. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

    Messages:
    1,292
    Likes Received:
    191
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2012
    I respectfully disagree on both counts. With regards to the Globemaster I think that's an overstatement, but to each their own. Again, I don't like it, but there are plenty of worse options out there. As for Rolex, my perception is my reality and while I overstated my point surely, I see models or references get high praise that I personally don't love.
     
  4. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,388
    Likes Received:
    4,743
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    It's healthy that there are a variety of perspectives. If I might add my own solitary positive on the Globemaster: the platinum version is cool. It doesn't have the 6 o'clock date that I hate, and that crazy lume and all the things Dino doesn't like make for an absolute spaceship. I'm not sure I'd buy it even if I had the beans, and understand why they'd be divisive, but I think it holds together pretty well as a modern take when it's stripped down to time only like this.
     
  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,677
    Likes Received:
    1,991
    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2011
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    First no one said its the worst option. Surely there are uglier watches, I can't think of any [​IMG] . Just kidding ...there are plenty of misteps from other makers even from big fan boy brands like Rolex, PP, AP, VC etc...its just IMHO the Globemaster a a big miss, and for what they cost there are other watches I'd rather own.

    Its fine not to see why people like certain things, that you don't like. We can't all like the same stuff. They fact that you don't see why other people like or buy something doesn't mean its getting a pass. It simply means your taste is different. I love my Royal Oak, and while there are other people here who also like them, there are plenty of people here who don't like like ROs. I don't think its a matter of people giving it a pass for being from AP. Sometimes one's taste puts one in line with the majority sometimes not.

    I think we will just have to agree to disagree.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2016
  6. apropos

    apropos Senior member

    Messages:
    4,456
    Likes Received:
    294
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    I'll chime in here to say that the Globemaster is a real dog, an absolute abomination that combines the best of several (some iconic) Omega watches to come up with the absolute worst. It's like a frankenstein lovechild of a 60s Constellation, a 70s Constellation, and an early Seamaster.

    The design person responsible for it should be figuratively be taken out back and shot. If your best "defence" of their looks is that "hey people will give it a pass if it says Rolex"... it's really as good as no defence at all and it's really you projecting your perception of another brand.
     
  7. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

    Messages:
    1,692
    Likes Received:
    662
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2011
    Location:
    London
    Is it worth it for an industry outsider to go to Basel World? Would I be able to see anything up close? I'm debating popping over.
     
  8. DLJr

    DLJr TWAT Master.

    Messages:
    1,667
    Likes Received:
    909
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Location:
    Philly Burbs
    

    Just wanted to address a few things.

    First, I think you're being way too liberal with what constitutes as similar here with a Saconia or 1815. I suppose that if round, time only with sub seconds are your criteria, then sure. But if that is it, I would never look at anything outside VC or Lange. Just silly, even outside of price, to compare those to the Orion.

    On the swatch thing, I actually agree to an extent with specific lines, and with the release of the neomatik line and all the random colored limited editions for Wempe, etc. But really, before the Neomatik line came out, the Tetra line was really the only one that could be considered fashion-y or swatch-like. The club, tangomat, ludwig, zurich, etc. line were all very non-fashion IMO. So I think that's a bit of a broad stroke there. Also, the Metro has always struck me as Nomos branching out as opposed to as their most typical example.

    Then on the Welzeit, I'm just confused how it can be both more like other watches out there but yet also a distinctive GMT.
     
  9. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

    Messages:
    2,511
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Many thanks for all the views on the JLC Dualtime - much appreciated!


    I am not as much a fan of the centralized subdials version, but you have an interesting point about that millimeter of space...


    Think this is the older model; will be a bit of a search to find one.


    That's really a great gift - well done!


    Many thanks Dino!


    Helpful - many thanks.


    Many thanks - very helpful.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2016
  10. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

    Messages:
    254
    Likes Received:
    423
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2014
    You won't see anything from the big brands except in their windows. If you're a nice guy, you can probably get to see some stuff from the Independents.
     
  11. pmeis

    pmeis Senior member

    Messages:
    139
    Likes Received:
    208
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2014
    Location:
    Chicago
    

    Technically this one got moved for the Oyster Perpetual, which then got moved for for the GO.

    Can't say I agree with your thoughts on Nomos, but I do mostly understand where you are coming from.
     
  12. pmeis

    pmeis Senior member

    Messages:
    139
    Likes Received:
    208
    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2014
    Location:
    Chicago
    

    IMO, this is the single biggest issue with most modern Omegas. I guess it has to do with their movement choice, which is technically excellent but not the thinnest thing on the block. I really like the aesthetic design of the newer Seamaster 300 master coaxials, but it wears way to big. My 44mm Panerai wears more elegantly. When you compare it to something like newer Rolex Sub, something that it should ultimately directly compete with, the Sub seems practically dainty.
     
  13. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

    Messages:
    254
    Likes Received:
    423
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2014
    Wore this one out on date night the other night. With my new EFF Epaulet x Southwick jacket

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

    Messages:
    727
    Likes Received:
    326
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    Location:
    Hoboken
     
  15. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

    Messages:
    7,388
    Likes Received:
    4,743
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Some like thinner, neater cases, and some like chunkier ones. There is also the matter of shape, lug width and angle etc. that is going to affect how watch lover X and watch lover Y experience the same watch. Unless you're competing to have the thinnest/lightest/sleekest whatever, it's just a subjective matter of taste. And as Larry Flynt's lawyer said, you can't legislate taste.

    To chime in on the Nomos thing, I do get the "fashion" point, though don't agree with it entirely. Yes, it's fair to say that a certain community of watch lovers have accepted Nomos as an admirable independent with a distinctive and credible house style and great quality for a reasonable price. In doing so, some might have romanticised and idealised the brand at the same time. I think that was Blaugrana's angle, roughly. Where I disagree is that I don't think they've pitched themselves to be trendy or youthful quite like a Swatch or other mass market maker, for two reasons: firstly, at their price point, they are still very much an expensive luxury niche product to the public it large. Only real watch lovers would see their $2-10k range as being modestly priced. And secondly, they don't market themselves to the broader consumer base with lifestyle or celebrity endorsements: they talk to watch nerds about their new movement and aesthetic identity.

    The very origin of their Bauhaus design ethic is the most efficient combination of function and beauty. Although I dislike their more colourful and whimsical designs, none really depart from this ethic. There is plenty of good feedback from owners and reviewers on quality and value, so I don't think it detratcts from the company or its products that some people have become a little too evangelical about its merits. Where the basic question comes in of "but would you buy a Nomos?" it's a bit like the Grand Seiko debate. Few people would argue that they're not good watches, so the "would you?" is really the only important part: most people will choose a Rolex over a GS for the same price, for any reason from brand identity to aesthetic to personal experience or loyalty. More people continue to spend Nomos money on Tag Heuer or Longines or Baume & Mercier even if Nomos are better, because people know what they know and like what they like - not because Nomos don't make better watches.

    Where do I stand? For $4-5k, I would rather have a used Rolex than a new Nomos. For $2k +, I might yet be tempted by a used Zurich, if I can see how it wears on the wrist first. And that's perhaps another reason why a Nomos or a Moser or a RGM or any number of interesting independents might just be losing out in the kop stakes, even to those who like the look of them: by definition, smaller makers don't have their products available for as many people to see. And "see it on the wrist" is a sensible test for most things. Dropping even $2k, let alone $4-5+, is a big bet for most people to place on an internet picture.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by