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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.
That Zenith is one of my faves.
Also, @frilly: I believe the word is...boom.
^^ There are two types of people in this world. Those who like a tonneau shaped case and those who don't.
Very nice frills.
Meanwhile, at the other end of the spectrum...
Unable to brush the brand off, I dove into Nomos a bit further and went and saw a few today. Oddly enough, the models I thought I'd like, didn't really call to me. However, I did rather like the Metro (sans-indicator).
In my research, I learned about Nomos' brand new movement, the "Neomatik." If I've understood correctly, it is their first 100% in-house automatic movement (though they may have been fully in-house as early as 2014 when they launched their own escapement). And it's only 3.2mm thick.
Not a bad looking movement at all. This makes for some thin cases as well. To commemorate this new movement, they launched a new family of watches, the "Minimatik."
It is a fun piece. Very simple with a sort of restrained whimsy. Small at 35.5mm x 8.8mm. The first editions are nearly all sold out online and at boutiques (though I suppose the right concierge could put in the footwork for one so inclined). Supposedly, only 3001 examples (it's named caliber DUW 3001) with the new movement were made as part of the "first editions." That's something I may have liked for the collectability as much as the smile I get looking at the playful face of it.
Right then. Moving on...
The Metro was the first one where they brought in the swing system (DUW4401). Minimatiks still use incabloc FWIW.
I'm a huge fan of Nomos (and German watches in general) and if my practicality didn't get the best of me, i'd probably own a few. Before I really got bit by the watch bug, I wore and older 35mm Tangente for about 3 years until a couple of Summer's ago. That summer I got hit by the bug and starting venturing into owning more than one watch. One of the best ones was the Ahoi Atlantik. I really loved it, but eventually I just decided that the lugs made it wear just a bit too big for my just over 7 inch wrist.
After another year or so of buying and selling, Nomos announced the 38.5mm Metro shown above. I still had the Tangente, but after wearing mostly 38mm to Luminor sized cases, the 35mm Tangente was very strange to wear, it just looked too small. IMO, the 38mm Nomos watches are the perfect size for their look, but unless they have the date, they really suffer from small movement syndrome. The sub seconds just gets too close to the hands and the majority of the 38mm dials look unbalanced.
I ended up ordering the Metro the week after it was announced last year and picked it up at the end of October. I also ended up with the Ludwig Neomatik, thinking it would make a perfect dress watch (which after selling my Tangente last summer I didn't have anything near suitable). I actually ended up acquiring my Neomatik and Metro within about a week of each other. After a month or so, I decided that I absolutely had to have the blue Oyster Perpetual (114300) and at that point the only watch in my fold that didn't serve a real purpose was the Metro. (My PAM was casual, the Neomatik was dress and the OP would be an everyday wear).
Between the PAM and my GO Seventies, I've really only been wearing the Neomatik when life calls for a suit, which for me is not very often. If it was bigger, I think I'd wear it more often, it just wears so delicately compared to the other two. Your post inspired me to put it on today and I think I'll try to do a better job of working it in on a regular basis. In many ways this is the best looking piece I own and the one I wear the least. The Minimatik referenced above is going to seem very small after wearing a GMT, but at the same time its probably not dressy enough for more dressy times. The Metro will look less foreign on the wrist coming from a steel sports watch, but of course will fee quite a bit different.
I'm hopeful that Nomos will release some more 38mm watches that are upgraded to the newer movements at Basel, I think it really help them extend the brand further. Anyway, I'm not sure what the point of this is other than just to provide some thoughts of somebody who has gone through a number of other brands. I think I'll always have at least one Nomos in the collection though, the purity of their design really speaks to me more than just about any other company out there.
For the TL;DR crowd, here are some pics:
@BostonHedonist Thanks for inspiring me to wear this today.
Nomos from the past:
Metro is a right pain to photograph though:
First sentence here says, "An entirely new automatic caliber and the first to be equipped with the NOMOS swing system. "
Yeah, that's wrong, unless maybe they are strictly referring to automatic calibers (not sure when they incorporated it into the 5201 in their Zurich Weltzeit). Please reference the site:
Movement NOMOS caliber DUW 4401 - The first NOMOS caliber with the in-house built NOMOS swing system. Some of the technical details: manual winding, date mechanism and power reserve indicator, both patented, tempered blue balance spring, movement individually numbered on the three-quarter plate, 23 jewels, fine adjustment in six positions, Glashütte sunburst and NOMOS perlage.
I think it may mean first *automatic* to use the swing system. As opposed to the hand wound models?
Edit: beat me to the punch!
Thanks for your post @pmeis.
A couple of nice looking watches. Personally, I think one could pull off the Metro in dressier settings as well, though I wouldn't wear it with a tux. It kind of rides the middle ground, with a dress-appropriate form factor and a more casual dial.
And I completely agree about Nomos' extensive use of 35mm cases. I just can't utilize that size now that I'm so used to sport watches. When I look at what's available I keep thinking "if only they had that in 38!"
Yeah, i think so too, though I can't remember when they brought out the blue dialed Weltzeit which had the swing system in an automatic caliber. And the site clearly conflicts itself on that too after looking it up haha:
Around the world and back again: DUW 5201—the first automatic caliber with the in-house NOMOS swing system—makes this possible.
I know the metro was first, I went to the event with Frills. After that, my memory says the 5201, and then the 3001. Nomos is saying both so????
They make better watches than websites, that I can promise. At that event I did try on the metro and went from very cold on it to loving it. Really sits great on the wrist. I also wear my wife's 35mm Orion (rose dial) to black tie events. The lugs make it wear quite a bit large on my wrist, and find it works great. Obviously that's personal preference, but food for thought.
Reading again, it's pretty clear they are just super excited about their swing system still. This is first entirely new automatic caliber with the swing system. So it's the first real new caliber they've developed since the swing system has been introduced, and it also has the swing system in it. If I'm reading correctly. So 4401, then 5201, then 3001 I think.
Yep, that's what I was coming back to post. The bolded is likely what they meant, but they didn't quite convey it properly. The blue Weltzeit was introduced with the swing system in late 2014 which was essentially a Xi caliber with the in house escapement and then at Basel last March they introduced the 3001. The 4401 was introduced around Basel 2014.
That was also my original intention with the Metro, but for whatever reason it took my dealer forever to get mine in and meanwhile they announced the Neomatiks which excited me in a different way, so I jumped on one as soon as I could.
Crap need to borrow a perpetual calendar for tonight's Hodinkee gathering. Frilly, I'm looking in your general direction...
NOMOS was my introduction to watches. I don't know if they are special but while I have picked up some "superior" pieces, I will never get rid of my Orion 35mm and wear it regularly. Its look just speaks to me. A simple, classically small three-hander but the gold markers and blue hands make it stand out just enough to make it unique. I would take it over most watches that are considered classics.
I have a couple of other NOMOS pieces: the Zurich Blaugold, which I like almost as much as the Orion because of the killer dial, even though I would prefer it be a bit smaller; and the Club, which I will probably sell as it's not getting any wrist time.
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