The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[TheFoo]

I like the case shape and the fact that his watches aren't some 14mm+ ***** dress watch. I don't really like the aesthetics of his dials though.

edit- apparently we can't say [email protected]

Journe watches are not as complicated as ~14-15mm watches from Patek, Lange, VC, etc. Most Journes have zero or one major complication. The only model that has more than one (the Astronomic Souverain) is … 14mm.

 

[Texasmade]

Journe watches are not as complicated as ~14-15mm watches from Patek, Lange, VC, etc. Most Journes have zero or one major complication. The only model that has more than one (the Astronomic Souverain) is … 14mm.

And that probably explains why his watches aren't fat as shit.

 

[TheFoo]

Plenty of independents in the East as well are focused on the classical experience. This Patek for example has inspired...

View attachment 1738091

View attachment 1738092

(the rising sun patterned "cotes de Japan" on the back are a nice touch to "take over" the design)

and:

View attachment 1738093

Yeah, but those Japanese independents are not watchmakers. They decorate pedestrian ebauches, put them in steel cases, and charge a price equal to what you’d pay for a better watch in precious metal from Patek or Lange. Unreal.

 

[9thsymph]

For once, I agree with you. That’s true across the board. I’ve never seen an F.P. Journe that wasn’t fucking atrocious looking. Trash.
* I’m legit not being sarcastic *

Not surprising that the one time you agree with foo, you end up being totally, absolutely, unmistakably wrong-headed. You also dialed in the perfect amount of provoke-by-calling-an-obviously-not-trash-watchmaker-trash vibe. Maybe you guys are more alike then anyone might have previously suspected? ;-)

 

[ducatiti]

Saw this on Reddit. Don't see DJs on after market straps very often. I think it's a pretty good casual look.

Looks great on that strap. My DJ says hi.

 

[George Red]

Not surprising that the one time you agree with foo, you end up being totally, absolutely, unmistakably wrong-headed. You also dialed in the perfect amount of provoke-by-calling-an-obviously-not-trash-watchmaker-trash vibe. Maybe you guys are more alike then anyone might have previously suspected? ;-)

Love you, too, boo boo.

 

[9thsymph]

And that probably explains why his watches aren't fat as shit.

thanks for getting wine all over my carpet asshole!

 

[St1X]

As of the past couple of months, Rexhep has said in interviews that they are now “developing” their movements in-house—code for decorating and maybe assembling movements that are made elsewhere, which Akrivia may have had a hand in specifying. Super shady shit.

Developing a besic movement is easy. With modern CAD software it's easy to even develop something like a tourbillon. Manufacturing is hard, thought. So if someone designs and develops a movement in house but outsources manufacturing he can still legitimately clan an in house movement

 

[9thsymph]

Looks great on that strap. My DJ says hi.

Perfection

 

[NakedYoga]

Just watch. Most of these hot independents will be forgotten 10 years from now. And people will look back at the more obnoxiously designed examples with disgusted amusement.

Out of curiosity, what are some examples of the particular independents or models that you're referencing with this comment?

 

[Dino944]

The vintage is stunning. Is there anything in the modern collection or plans that approach its proportions?

There is nothing currently offered like that, and I'm not aware of any plans to release another. We will just have to wait to see what new offerings are released in 2022.

So is the minute repeater, think this is about 1930. View attachment 1737812

I've never seen the vintage Tortue minute repeater, however, there was a CPCP version. It was smaller than the 34mm Tortue Monopossoire. One sat in the 5th Avenue Flagship boutique for a few years. IIRC it was about $140,000.

 

[9thsymph]

One other note on independents: Why should it necessarily be thought that any of these brands intend to be long-lived legacy brands? Their hyper-specific dated-ness is the attraction - be super hot for a specific stretch, rather than charmingly boring for 100+ years.

Does anyone honestly believe that Richard Mille thinks their watches are timeless?

 

[Newcomer]

@TheFoo - to follow up, did you end up taking your watch to the Henri Stern Agency?

Well, I seemingly got my answer: https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=837750

 

[St1X]

Well, I seemingly got my answer: https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=837750

View attachment 1738247

Turns out Patek's case work is also pedestrian ?

 

[Newcomer]

W/R/T the issue of independents, I think it is probably difficult for independents to both have an identifiable design language and stay within the so-called "optimal" range. I am not a big Journe guy, but what he has accomplished is extremely impressive. His watches are identifiable from across a room, are completely unique, and, while aesthetically not for me, they exist within the "optimal" range.

Brands like De Bethune, and MB&F - well, they just offer a completely different product. And I am happy they exist as they add some color to a staid industry. Then, brands like Dufour, KV, Akrivia, etc. - I am not sure I care about how relevant they are ten years from now, because the watchmakers are the brands. I do acknowledge there is an issue with service, but I get the feeling you could find someone to service the movement.

I was thinking about this very issue earlier today, when I came across Laine Watches:


With the V38, you get a 38mm watch, 9mm thick, lovely dial work, a nicely-finished Vaucher movement, breguet numerals, and a fantastically balanced dial (it is not cross-eyed like the 5196). However, does it have enough character? It does have serious bang for your buck, but it feels kind of soulless.