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New Shoes1

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Agreed. On that note, for whatever reason I've been taken with the idea of a big chunky dove watch. This wouldn't masquerade as anything other than what it is. I want it to be robust and not something you'd ever consider wearing under the sleeve of a dress shirt. Something that would look out of place pretty much anwywhere except at the beach or in the water. I'd say a real tool watch, but that term is overused and I'm afraid of being labeled a tool.

Anyway, the one I keep coming back to is the orange dial Doxa Sub 300T. I think @Dino944 has mentioned in the past he has friends who like theirs. Anyone else?

View attachment 1645417

I also still like Seiko's more classic dive watch styling, so I've thought about the King Turtle (SRPE03 or 05). Two different price points, but those are the two that I keep coming back to.

View attachment 1645416
By a strange coincidence, I have the Doxa sub 300 in orange arriving tomorrow. I also have the Synchron Military, which shares the same case as an older version of the 300T. And, also having an Oris Aquis, here is what I can share (based on the Synchron Military and my research):

- It wears much smaller than the Oris Aquis. One of the things I like best about it is the 42.5 mm cushion case with the much smaller bezel and dial (I believe the dial is approximately 28 mm in diameter). Ridiculously comfortable and masculine in appearance without looking like a hockey puck on your wrist. I really like the chunkiness of this one in the 42 mm case size.

- Do your research on the current version of the 300T. The bracelet flares out significantly, is chunkier than the 300 bracelet and has a large ratchet clasp. In researching it and reading about people's experiences with it, the bracelet is pretty universally panned and there are lots of posts about trying to find alternative bracelets that fit the 300T case, such as a 1200T bracelet or using the 300T end links with a 300 bracelet.

- The beads of rice for the 300T end links are fixed (they do not articulate) and extend significantly beyond the lugs, which increases the lug to lug width and can result in a significant gap and weird angle for the bracelet as it diverges from the end links. Again, lots of posts about people filing those down or other hacks that should not be necessary on a $2K watch.

- I've got in the back of my mind that I want an aqua marine 300T to go along with the 300 professional arriving tomorrow, but the bracelet and end link issues have given me enough pause that I've got that on the back burner for now. I may eventually get one, but, if I do, it will be knowing that I'll probably wear it on an Erika's Original or rubber strap 90% of the time.

Best of luck to you.
 

New Shoes1

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Agreed. On that note, for whatever reason I've been taken with the idea of a big chunky dove watch. This wouldn't masquerade as anything other than what it is. I want it to be robust and not something you'd ever consider wearing under the sleeve of a dress shirt. Something that would look out of place pretty much anwywhere except at the beach or in the water. I'd say a real tool watch, but that term is overused and I'm afraid of being labeled a tool.

Anyway, the one I keep coming back to is the orange dial Doxa Sub 300T. I think @Dino944 has mentioned in the past he has friends who like theirs. Anyone else?

View attachment 1645417

I also still like Seiko's more classic dive watch styling, so I've thought about the King Turtle (SRPE03 or 05). Two different price points, but those are the two that I keep coming back to.

View attachment 1645416
Forgot to warn you off the Turtle. I love how Turtles look in pictures, but it gets little to no wear time for me because it is all of that 45 mm case diameter and very large and heavy on the wrist. This is coming from someone with a 7 1/8 inch wrist. I moved my Turtle to the drawer of watches that I need to get off my ass and sell.
 

DavidLane

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Congratulations! The attention to detail for Halios is incredible for a sub-$1,000K watch. As good as it looks on the bracelet, I've found it's also an incredible strap watch as the spring bar holes are strategically placed a little closer to the case than normal in order to avoid too much gap when wearing a strap. I also love that blue color and how it changes from natural light to sunlight.

It's a keeper for me and hopefully for you as well. Enjoy!
Thank you. I am very happy with it. I agree it will do well on a strap or nylon NATO. The blue is the “right” blue if that makes any sense. Definitely a keeper and will do well alongside my SKX013.

-DL
 

Nickd

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Stopped by Tourneau yesterday to drop off my wife's Nomos Orion -- broken mainspring (or winding mechanism), as I mentioned in an earlier post this week. My wife is in her 60s, has lived with manual wind watches all her life, and never broke a mainspring before. Tchah. Coupled with the problems I've had with my Metro and Nomos's abysmal service, I am done with them. The Orion broke one month before it turned five years old. Am very sorry I didn't buy it at Tourneau's, as the money I saved buying it from a broker on Chrono24 is now about to be lost on the repair.

To console myself, I picked up a Longines Flagship Heritage for everyday/work ... Tourneau actually gave me a price that was equal to what I would have paid on Chrono24 or Amazon and I get their five-year warranty, which sure matters a lot to me now,
given the Orion.

Wanted to watch to remember my Dad by, may he rest in peace, and this 'Heritage' watch is one he would have loved and feels 'classic'. He'd owned a Wittnauer for years (with a nasty metal 'flex' band that he loved and which as a boy fascinated me), which I guess is a cousin brand of Longines, before investing in a Rolex late in life (that after 25 years spent more time in the shop than on his wrist or, after he died, on mine ...). Had tried something else the year after he passed, but it was too heavy for my relatively thin wrist and I sold it. This Longines works for me and made the otherwise painful trip to Tourneau for the Nomos repair a good deal happier.

View attachment 1645547
That is a lovely Longines. My dad is after something similar - it will be his first decent watch purchase since his (60s) Omega Seamaster in the 80s.
 

Nickd

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What are people's thoughts on this Patek? It's a 1974 Ref. 3602. It is a wildly unfashionable style at the moment with its hobnail/clous de Paris bezel and all-gold case and dial on a glossy black strap. For me it has a lot of charm, and because it's an unpopular model I think I could get one for about £6-7k. I can see it on the wrist of a Japanese businessman in booming 1970s Tokyo, or a foreign financier hobnobbing in the heyday of the Hong Kong Club. I'd be tempted to put it on a matte olive green strap to dress it down a bit and wear it with anything.

People often criticise the hobnail as "not being very Patek" because it goes against the Bauhaus origins of the Calatrava and was supposedly only introduced in 1973. I've seen this repeated in this thread a few times even. My understanding is that actually there was variant of the original 1932 Ref. 96, called the 96D, which was released in 1934 and had a hobnail bezel (the "D" standing for décor). I've never been able to find a photo though - I wonder if anyone else has? In any case, for me the hobnail has been one of the signature features of Pateks for at least 50 years, and I have no interest in slavish adherence to Bauhaus functionalist principles anyway, particularly for gold watches, which are fundamentally superfluous pieces of decorative jewellery.

View attachment 1645526
I love it, and if I could find one similar, that wasn’t tiny for around £6k I’d be pretty happy.
 

New Shoes1

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Was browsing another site and saw these pictures that show the differences between the Doxa Sub 300 and 300T. They show the greater flare on the 300T and also the impact of the first three "beads of rice" not articulating on the 300T end link. They also show how awesome these watches look today with a design that has not changed much in the past 50-plus years.

1627512156971.png


1627512196226.png
 

pmeis

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Was browsing another site and saw these pictures that show the differences between the Doxa Sub 300 and 300T. They show the greater flare on the 300T and also the impact of the first three "beads of rice" not articulating on the 300T end link. They also show how awesome these watches look today with a design that has not changed much in the past 50-plus years.

View attachment 1645709

View attachment 1645712
That wrist seems to be pretty small, I think on a bit larger of a wrist, the way the bracelet flares out wouldn’t be that big of a deal If any.
 

am55

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What are people's thoughts on this Patek? It's a 1974 Ref. 3602. It is a wildly unfashionable style at the moment with its hobnail/clous de Paris bezel and all-gold case and dial on a glossy black strap. For me it has a lot of charm, and because it's an unpopular model I think I could get one for about £6-7k. I can see it on the wrist of a Japanese businessman in booming 1970s Tokyo, or a foreign financier hobnobbing in the heyday of the Hong Kong Club. I'd be tempted to put it on a matte olive green strap to dress it down a bit and wear it with anything.

People often criticise the hobnail as "not being very Patek" because it goes against the Bauhaus origins of the Calatrava and was supposedly only introduced in 1973. I've seen this repeated in this thread a few times even. My understanding is that actually there was variant of the original 1932 Ref. 96, called the 96D, which was released in 1934 and had a hobnail bezel (the "D" standing for décor). I've never been able to find a photo though - I wonder if anyone else has? In any case, for me the hobnail has been one of the signature features of Pateks for at least 50 years, and I have no interest in slavish adherence to Bauhaus functionalist principles anyway, particularly for gold watches, which are fundamentally superfluous pieces of decorative jewellery.

View attachment 1645526
This is the quintessential model for this idea in my mind albeit with dauphine hands:



The idea has been ruined by the plethora of tone on tone models from Bulova to Rolex, but do you really care? In the flesh these things look quite unique.
 

New Shoes1

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That wrist seems to be pretty small, I think on a bit larger of a wrist, the way the bracelet flares out wouldn’t be that big of a deal If any.
For me, the flare out is more about aesthetics. I don't like how it flares out and has that gap between the lugs and the bracelet.

1627515878860.png


Here's a picture of the same watch from before on the 1200T bracelet, which I think looks much better.




1627515414774.png


I'll also agree that the end link issue is likely a non-issue for larger wristed folks. I'm probably right on that borderline wrist-wise where the bracelet seems to veer straight down from the fixed beads of the end links at a strange angle, so I'm hesitating and proceeding cautiously.
 

pmeis

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For me, the flare out is more about aesthetics. I don't like how it flares out and has that gap between the lugs and the bracelet.

View attachment 1645731

Here's a picture of the same watch from before on the 1200T bracelet, which I think looks much better.




View attachment 1645726

I'll also agree that the end link issue is likely a non-issue for larger wristed folks. I'm probably right on that borderline wrist-wise where the bracelet seems to veer straight down from the fixed beads of the end links at a strange angle, so I'm hesitating and proceeding cautiously.
I still kick myself a bit about not buying a vintage Searambler from a guy at a Chicago Redbar meetup. He had it on this well worn brown leather NATO, it just looked so cool and wore so well. I think he only wanted like $1400 for it, which at the time was about the going rate even for older ones. I hit him up like 3 months later and he told me that he had just sold it the week before.
 

NakedYoga

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By a strange coincidence, I have the Doxa sub 300 in orange arriving tomorrow. I also have the Synchron Military, which shares the same case as an older version of the 300T. And, also having an Oris Aquis, here is what I can share (based on the Synchron Military and my research):

- It wears much smaller than the Oris Aquis. One of the things I like best about it is the 42.5 mm cushion case with the much smaller bezel and dial (I believe the dial is approximately 28 mm in diameter). Ridiculously comfortable and masculine in appearance without looking like a hockey puck on your wrist. I really like the chunkiness of this one in the 42 mm case size.

- Do your research on the current version of the 300T. The bracelet flares out significantly, is chunkier than the 300 bracelet and has a large ratchet clasp. In researching it and reading about people's experiences with it, the bracelet is pretty universally panned and there are lots of posts about trying to find alternative bracelets that fit the 300T case, such as a 1200T bracelet or using the 300T end links with a 300 bracelet.

- The beads of rice for the 300T end links are fixed (they do not articulate) and extend significantly beyond the lugs, which increases the lug to lug width and can result in a significant gap and weird angle for the bracelet as it diverges from the end links. Again, lots of posts about people filing those down or other hacks that should not be necessary on a $2K watch.

- I've got in the back of my mind that I want an aqua marine 300T to go along with the 300 professional arriving tomorrow, but the bracelet and end link issues have given me enough pause that I've got that on the back burner for now. I may eventually get one, but, if I do, it will be knowing that I'll probably wear it on an Erika's Original or rubber strap 90% of the time.

Best of luck to you.
Interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't come across this issue, but I didn't really have a reason to look. I found a thread on WUS discussing the problem as well as what appears to be an acceptable DIY solution of using a Dremel or file/sandpaper to shave down part of the first set of beads of rice... https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/fixing-the-doxa-300t-bracelet-problem.5285864/

I don't have particularly large wrists... maybe 6.75", but even before hearing about this I envisioned wearing it mostly on some other kind of strap (not the bright orange one you can get in lieu of the bracelet--the orange dial is enough). I really wish I could try one on.

Regarding wanting an Aquamarine 300T to go with the Professional 300... why not just get an Aquamarine 300 instead of the T?
 

New Shoes1

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I still kick myself a bit about not buying a vintage Searambler from a guy at a Chicago Redbar meetup. He had it on this well worn brown leather NATO, it just looked so cool and wore so well. I think he only wanted like $1400 for it, which at the time was about the going rate even for older ones. I hit him up like 3 months later and he told me that he had just sold it the week before.
That sucks. He who hesitates . . .
 

New Shoes1

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Interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't come across this issue, but I didn't really have a reason to look. I found a thread on WUS discussing the problem as well as what appears to be an acceptable DIY solution of using a Dremel or file/sandpaper to shave down part of the first set of beads of rice... https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/fixing-the-doxa-300t-bracelet-problem.5285864/

I don't have particularly large wrists... maybe 6.75", but even before hearing about this I envisioned wearing it mostly on some other kind of strap (not the bright orange one you can get in lieu of the bracelet--the orange dial is enough). I really wish I could try one on.

Regarding wanting an Aquamarine 300T to go with the Professional 300... why not just get an Aquamarine 300 instead of the T?
I might or I might simply decide the bracelet issue isn't that important because of how good the watch looks on straps. I'll live with the 300 Professional for a while and see where it leads me, but, ultimately, I'd kind of like one of each.

And the 300T does look pretty awesome on a strap (not my picture):

1627529385241.png
 

Dino944

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Was browsing another site and saw these pictures that show the differences between the Doxa Sub 300 and 300T. They show the greater flare on the 300T and also the impact of the first three "beads of rice" not articulating on the 300T end link. They also show how awesome these watches look today with a design that has not changed much in the past 50-plus years.

View attachment 1645709

View attachment 1645712
Both of my friends that have one, have the 300T. Neither has complained about the bracelet and the non-articulating first links, but they have large wrists so it's probably not an issue for them.

It's also interesting to see in the first photo the domed crystal of the 300. I hadn't noticed that previously. Looking forward to seeing wrist shots of yours soon.
 

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