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Drek Galloche

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Slightly different topic - I have an old Illinois cushion case watch that has literally been sitting in my top drawer for a decade. Got it on a lark because I liked the number fonts, but it has a shiny black strap that I think its a bit too formal for the watch.

In order to scratch my watch itch I think I am going to get a new strap from @DavidLane to throw on it. I reached out to him months ago and his recommendation was the brown vintage goatskin which I am inclined to go with, but I figured for discussion and due diligence sake I'd open it up to the group at large for suggestions

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White face watches have a privilege of looking great on light caramel or grey alligator straps.
 

NakedYoga

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What are people's thoughts on this Patek? It's a 1974 Ref. 3602. It is a wildly unfashionable style at the moment with its hobnail/clous de Paris bezel and all-gold case and dial on a glossy black strap. For me it has a lot of charm, and because it's an unpopular model I think I could get one for about £6-7k. I can see it on the wrist of a Japanese businessman in booming 1970s Tokyo, or a foreign financier hobnobbing in the heyday of the Hong Kong Club. I'd be tempted to put it on a matte olive green strap to dress it down a bit and wear it with anything.

People often criticise the hobnail as "not being very Patek" because it goes against the Bauhaus origins of the Calatrava and was supposedly only introduced in 1973. I've seen this repeated in this thread a few times even. My understanding is that actually there was variant of the original 1932 Ref. 96, called the 96D, which was released in 1934 and had a hobnail bezel (the "D" standing for décor). I've never been able to find a photo though - I wonder if anyone else has? In any case, for me the hobnail has been one of the signature features of Pateks for at least 50 years, and I have no interest in slavish adherence to Bauhaus functionalist principles anyway, particularly for gold watches, which are fundamentally superfluous pieces of decorative jewellery.

View attachment 1645526
I'm not a gatekeeper of whether it's a "true Patek" or not, nor do I care, so my vote is go for it. I've no opinion of any value on the cost as I don't know anything about the market. But, from a purely aesthetic standpoint, I like it. I generally don't really like gold watches, but I find this one elegant, owing in no small part to the hobnail bezel. I'll reserve judgement on an olive strap until I see it.
 

Dino944

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What are people's thoughts on this Patek? It's a 1974 Ref. 3602. It is a wildly unfashionable style at the moment with its hobnail/clous de Paris bezel and all-gold case and dial on a glossy black strap. For me it has a lot of charm, and because it's an unpopular model I think I could get one for about £6-7k. I can see it on the wrist of a Japanese businessman in booming 1970s Tokyo, or a foreign financier hobnobbing in the heyday of the Hong Kong Club. I'd be tempted to put it on a matte olive green strap to dress it down a bit and wear it with anything.

People often criticise the hobnail as "not being very Patek" because it goes against the Bauhaus origins of the Calatrava and was supposedly only introduced in 1973. I've seen this repeated in this thread a few times even. My understanding is that actually there was variant of the original 1932 Ref. 96, called the 96D, which was released in 1934 and had a hobnail bezel (the "D" standing for décor). I've never been able to find a photo though - I wonder if anyone else has? In any case, for me the hobnail has been one of the signature features of Pateks for at least 50 years, and I have no interest in slavish adherence to Bauhaus functionalist principles anyway, particularly for gold watches, which are fundamentally superfluous pieces of decorative jewellery.

View attachment 1645526
I'm not usually a fan of a hobnail bezel, but it's often because when Patek has done one in recent years it was paired with dainty little welded on lugs that are easily damaged/bent, or sheared completely off the case if they come in contact with something hard. That is a common issue with Patek ref. 3119 and its replacement 5119. Those watches looked and were to delicate for me. Or when they did put a hobnail bezel on a watch with thicker lugs it would have a crown guard, which just didn't work for me on a lot of modern Calatravas.

1627496865574.png

Ref 5119

The advantage of the hobnail bezel, is its hides scratches that would easily be visible on a smooth bezel On this piece I think the thicker more traditional Calatrava lugs on 3602 give it a little studier look, and make it something that would be more wearable for me. The baton hands on this are different. They are a bit sporty with the black line running across them (often seen on Daytona hands of the last 30+ years), rather than the traditional Dauphine hands I associate with the bulk of Calatravas (yes occasionally, Patek has used other hands on Calatravas). In addition, I just realized this one unlike most Calatravas, does not have a seconds hand. Although a gold/champagne dial is generally not my first choice on most watches, it does work with this...although I wish it did not have a gold outline around the date. I'm curious about the size of this older Patek...I'm guessing it could be 32 or 33mm in diameter. If it puts a smile on your face go for it.
 

chanoch

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Stopped by Tourneau yesterday to drop off my wife's Nomos Orion -- broken mainspring (or winding mechanism), as I mentioned in an earlier post this week. My wife is in her 60s, has lived with manual wind watches all her life, and never broke a mainspring before. Tchah. Coupled with the problems I've had with my Metro and Nomos's abysmal service, I am done with them. The Orion broke one month before it turned five years old. Am very sorry I didn't buy it at Tourneau's, as the money I saved buying it from a broker on Chrono24 is now about to be lost on the repair.

To console myself, I picked up a Longines Flagship Heritage for everyday/work ... Tourneau actually gave me a price that was equal to what I would have paid on Chrono24 or Amazon and I get their five-year warranty, which sure matters a lot to me now,
given the Orion.

Wanted to watch to remember my Dad by, may he rest in peace, and this 'Heritage' watch is one he would have loved and feels 'classic'. He'd owned a Wittnauer for years (with a nasty metal 'flex' band that he loved and which as a boy fascinated me), which I guess is a cousin brand of Longines, before investing in a Rolex late in life (that after 25 years spent more time in the shop than on his wrist or, after he died, on mine ...). Had tried something else the year after he passed, but it was too heavy for my relatively thin wrist and I sold it. This Longines works for me and made the otherwise painful trip to Tourneau for the Nomos repair a good deal happier.

IMG_3596 (2).JPG
 

Woofa

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, and it is--to a degree. I view it more as a GMT/travel use-case watch, leaving the "chunky diver" slot open for the Doxa. Whether this is me trying to justify the Doxa is another conversation altogether. It has a GMT bezel, not a diving bezel, so that's my position there. Really, though, the Whale Shark doesn't seem out of place in most situations where you'd wear any other stainless steel GMT. With the Doxa, though, I don't see myself wearing that anywhere but the beach, boat, etc.

What is the general consensus about this issue. My personal thoughts ate that if you will not actually be using the watch while diving, perhaps the GMt is actually more useful and of course it has more than adequate WR in your case. I kind of feel like for me, a rotating bezel is a rotating bezel.
 

Dino944

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Stopped by Tourneau yesterday to drop off my wife's Nomos Orion -- broken mainspring (or winding mechanism), as I mentioned in an earlier post this week. My wife is in her 60s, has lived with manual wind watches all her life, and never broke a mainspring before. Tchah. Coupled with the problems I've had with my Metro and Nomos's abysmal service, I am done with them. The Orion broke one month before it turned five years old. Am very sorry I didn't buy it at Tourneau's, as the money I saved buying it from a broker on Chrono24 is now about to be lost on the repair.

To console myself, I picked up a Longines Flagship Heritage for everyday/work ... Tourneau actually gave me a price that was equal to what I would have paid on Chrono24 or Amazon and I get their five-year warranty, which sure matters a lot to me now,
given the Orion.

Wanted to watch to remember my Dad by, may he rest in peace, and this 'Heritage' watch is one he would have loved and feels 'classic'. He'd owned a Wittnauer for years (with a nasty metal 'flex' band that he loved and which as a boy fascinated me), which I guess is a cousin brand of Longines, before investing in a Rolex late in life (that after 25 years spent more time in the shop than on his wrist or, after he died, on mine ...). Had tried something else the year after he passed, but it was too heavy for my relatively thin wrist and I sold it. This Longines works for me and made the otherwise painful trip to Tourneau for the Nomos repair a good deal happier.

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Sorry to hear what a disaster your Nomos experience was. However, I'm glad to hear that you found something you really like and which is a nice reminder of your dad. Congrats and enjoy the new Longines! :cheers:
 

NakedYoga

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What is the general consensus about this issue. My personal thoughts ate that if you will not actually be using the watch while diving, perhaps the GMt is actually more useful and of course it has more than adequate WR in your case. I kind of feel like for me, a rotating bezel is a rotating bezel.
No idea what the general consensus is. I would actually argue the GMT bezel is less useful unless you're traveling in another time zone. A least with a typical diving bezel you can more easily time...whatever you need to time...with some degree of accuracy moreso than with a GMT bezel. I agree the Whale Shark has more than adequate WR. Again, I'll be the first to admit part of this is probably just me trying to justify another watch purchase.
 

Dino944

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No idea what the general consensus is. I would actually argue the GMT bezel is less useful unless you're traveling in another time zone. A least with a typical diving bezel you can more easily time...whatever you need to time...with some degree of accuracy moreso than with a GMT bezel. I agree the Whale Shark has more than adequate WR. Again, I'll be the first to admit part of this is probably just me trying to justify another watch purchase.
For me the usability of the bezel to time things is the same. I don't actually pay attention to minutes on the Sub/diving bezel. I just move the triangle on the GMT or the Sub, to the duration of time I have on a parking meter (from where the minute hand currently is), or the duration of time it will take for something to cook. I like Subs, but I generally find a GMT function more useful than greater water resistance of most diving watches.

If any of that takes away from your justification to buy another watch...then everything above is totally wrong, and please
keep us posted regarding whatever watch you decide to buy! ;):rotflmao:
 

Ambulance Chaser

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but at the end of the day practicality doesn't make one a beauty contest winner. Miss Universe rarely wins the title because she has a sturdier build that allows her to use a jack hammer for road work, and because she has a plain face that doesn't distract her co-workers.
:crackup:

"The watch doesn't make me smile--actually, it kind of makes me cringe--but look at all these functions! And how easy it is to read the time!"
 

New Shoes1

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This was delivered on Monday. The quality and value that Halios brings is incredible, and the piece is excellent as well.
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-DL
Congratulations! The attention to detail for Halios is incredible for a sub-$1,000K watch. As good as it looks on the bracelet, I've found it's also an incredible strap watch as the spring bar holes are strategically placed a little closer to the case than normal in order to avoid too much gap when wearing a strap. I also love that blue color and how it changes from natural light to sunlight.

It's a keeper for me and hopefully for you as well. Enjoy!
 

Newcomer

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:crackup:

"The watch doesn't make me smile--actually, it kind of makes me cringe--but look at all these functions! And how easy it is to read the time!"
I ask one question, and one question only: how long does this make my penis feel?
 

NakedYoga

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If any of that takes away from your justification to buy another watch...then everything above is totally wrong, and please
keep us posted regarding whatever watch you decide to buy! ;):rotflmao:
Very on-brand... You are this thread's #1 enabler!
 

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