The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[Deeky]

Well the popular Tudor models are also basically all sold out and difficult to get in SG, for all it's worth. But then again, SG is a very unrealistic and inane market

 

[Nickd]

I guess I'm going by the fact that I've never seen anyone wearing a Tudor in real life, nor have I ever met anyone who's heard of them except for enthusiasts. I certainly don't think they have the general mainstream appeal that matches Omega, Panerai, IWC, or even Tag, frankly. I accept that I may be wrong though and that times are changing.

Also, I wonder how many places choose to carry Tudor vs. being gently asked to carry Tudor by their Rolex overlords.

Omega and Tag seem to be the brands worn by people who want a nice watch but aren’t that into it. I see Omega on people’s wrists more than any other brand, Rolex included.

In my local large Mall there are two Tudor ADs. One is also a Rolex AD, the other isn’t - I suspect you are at least partially right, but I know the Black Bay range, especially the chrono and silver models are selling well for them.

 

[Drek Galloche]

The Zenith A384 reissues feel small to handle, but the case shape gives it s bigger presence on wrist IME. They are strange watches, but I love them.

They are interesting watches but I did not expect zenith to stick to vintage size so literally. A bit of a punt on their part. I do like real vintage pieces with brown dials that are sold for the same price as new ones.
I am currently hunting for very underappreciated chrono from a very famous and storied maker that noone cares about. Hard to find a good example though as they are rare.

 

[Neville Southall]

I actually dropped by Watches of Switzerland at Hudson Yards yesterday with my family to get out of the heat.

First of all, I am such proud dada. Upon entering the store, my 5-year-old daughter pointed at the Patek and Rolex signs and exclaimed: “They have Patek watches and also Rolex! Let’s look at Patek first!”

There were very few Pateks to look at. Obviously, there were no Nautilus or Aquanaut models, but also nothing else other than a few ladies watches. No Calatravas, no smaller complications (annual calendars, travel time, etc.), nothing. Ninety percent of the display slots were empty. This was true last time I was at Wempe in midtown and the Soho Watches of Switzerland as well. Point is, Pateks in general are running scarce.

The Rolex section was even more ridiculous. All slots were empty except for TWO watches, including a 34mm rose gold Datejust. I don’t remember the other, but it was also a smaller ladies model.

Every other brand’s display area was fully-loaded (e.g. Vacheron, Omega, IWC, JLC, etc.). They had like six Speedmaster moon watches ready for purchase, including a couple of the outgoing version.

In some ways, this is to be expected. Perhaps, the broader watch consumer market is simply catching up to more serious collectors, who began heavily consolidating their collections on Patek and Rolex about ~10 years ago. Before then, it was more common for enthusiasts to dabble across the different makers. These days, it’s Patek, Rolex, independents, or you’re a beginner.

Will this change? For reasons discussed before, Patek and Rolex have unique appeal to collectors. The other brands from Richemont and LVMH tend to feel a lot more anonymous and luxury consumerist oriented. Hard to put a finger on exactly why, but one key element is that their marketing tends to feel a lot more forced and their watches feel a lot more influenced by marketing. In contrast, Patek and Rolex exude somewhat of a “we don’t give a **** what you want” attitude. This reflects their conservativism and reinforces an aura of permanence.

In short, increasingly few people have concentrated collections of watches from the likes of IWC or JLC or even Lange. People who buy those watches tend to be more casual about collecting or will never buy more than one or two. Anecdotally, most of my friends and co-workers who have nice watches from such brands tend to have only that single watch, aren’t serious enthusiasts, and usually bought it because they saw an ad or think the brand is “cool”.

Given the underlying drivers, the current trend toward market bifurcation may be more secular than cyclical, unfortunately.

My AD told me that Rolex has instructed all ADs to change their display cases. Rolex ADs used to have display cases that allowed for large spreads and plenty of real estate in them. Rolex now provides all ADs with what is essentially a small trey that looks like a cafeteria trey. In it, there are about 3 slots, each accommodating one watch. ADs are not allowed to have more than 3-4 "treys." If you look at modern display cases, there are MILES of empty space between each trey and almost all slots in the treys are empty.

These F***ers are deliberately, actually limiting models on display to no more than 9, or so, total models. When I picked up my Big Pilot on Saturday, my AD had like three 30-something millimetre, two tone Datejusts. That's it. It's sad. My AD was kind enough to "check in the back for me" and offered me a white gold, 42mm Yachtmaster (on the Oysterflex strap), but I politely refused, as I think that watch is hideous.

In conclusion, the watch market is sad.

 

[pmeis]

They are interesting watches but I did not expect zenith to stick to vintage size so literally. A bit of a punt on their part. I do like real vintage pieces with brown dials that are sold for the same price as new ones.
I am currently hunting for very underappreciated chrono from a very famous and storied maker that noone cares about. Hard to find a good example though as they are rare.

If they were to "right size" them, then they get people bitching about why does everything have to be inflated in size. I've certainly seen these types comments on almost every other vintage reissue that gets put out in a larger size.

They did make a couple larger reissue in 2009 for the 40th anniversary. It loses something at that size at least...kind of looks a bit ungainly.

 

[mak1277]

If they were to "right size" them, then they get people bitching about why does everything have to be inflated in size. I've certainly seen these types comments on almost every other vintage reissue that gets put out in a larger size.

They did make a couple larger reissue in 2009 for the 40th anniversary. It loses something at that size at least...kind of looks a bit ungainly.

Yep, again the difference between catering to enthusiasts vs. general public

 

[Neville Southall]

Hot out today.

 

[reidd]

Just to **** with everyone, Patek should re-release the Neptune as a replacement for the Nautilus in the steel sports line. I'm sure it would go full waitlist immediately.

 

[Drek Galloche]

Most of my watches are 36-38mm so I am not the one for XL trend. My comment was specifically about Zenith 1970s Vintage as it has 38mm case but strangely shrunken dial that appears to be barely 33.

 

[Jamesbond1]

That's TPG and Kevin O'Leary's special project watch...

Kevin O’Leary is a twat!!

 

[Keith T]

I'm digging the color on that Big Pilot. And bonus points for no date ;-)

Never have really liked the rivet strap look myself, but it obviously makes a lot of sense with that watch.

 

[Neville Southall]

I'm digging the color on that Big Pilot. And bonus points for no date ;-)

Never have really liked the rivet strap look myself, but it obviously makes a lot of sense with that watch.

Thanks, man. I actually want a rivet-less brown strap for this. Think blue and brown looks killer.

 

[Jamesbond1]

Thanks, man. I actually want a rivet-less brown strap for this. Think blue and brown looks killer.

Came with titanium bracelet, bought a omega blue nato and a blue denim strap and then this brown from omega .

I think this strap looks the best out of all the ones I have

 

[Neville Southall]

Came with titanium bracelet, bought a omega blue nato and a blue denim strap and then this brown from omega .

I think this strap looks the best out of all the ones I have View attachment 1628448

I always liked that version!

 

[dauster]

Have there been any historical precedents of consumers forced to buy **** they don't want in order to be rewarded with an opportunity to spend even more money on some other ****? I am afraid this is unique situation of consumptia hysterica.

I think most people look at it wrong. Buy what you like and if you really only want this one daytona, nautilus etc than you gotta pay market price.

I don't think people just buy random ferraris or a **** ton of hermes towels but maybe I am wrong. The good thing about watches is you can at least buy and build purchase history, wear them and then sell. doesn't work with most hermes goods and maybe only with a few Ferraris or similar luxury goods