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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

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  1. BLAUGRANA

    BLAUGRANA Senior member

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    There's a husband/wife (or at least they seem partners) account on Instagram and they have quite the collection with multiple Reversos, a few Journes, etc, and they have what looks a version of this with a champagnesque dial that looks great.
     
  2. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Lange...I've never liked Patek's annual calendars.
     
  3. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    ^Another vote for the Moon @P. Bateman
     
  4. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    Quote:If it's the couple I'm thinking of, they're great. He's also got a Simplicity... some collection!
     
  5. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    What does everyone think of Parmigiani? For some reason I continue to find myself drawn to their peices. The movements and cases are quite lovely and generally seem to far surpass most of what you can find at similar price points.

    Buuuuut, they're only a 20-year-old company and the Swiss watchmaking industry does have a rocky road to hoe right now... Will they still be around in another 20 or 40 years? I wonder about their reliability.

    But put a Tonda 1950 up against a VC Patrimony a Lange Saxonia or a JLC MUT, and you've got some stiff competition!

    [​IMG]

    I particularly like the platinum micro-rotors.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Their big logo puts me off - maybe that's a bit silly, but each to his own.
     
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  7. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Dino - any thoughts on the Cartier CP Tortue Monopusher (IIRC, you own one)? I have an opportunity to buy one in good condition for $8K from a private seller, and I'm told they typically go for $15-$20K these days.

    Any thoughts / reservations? Thanks for the help
     
  8. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    Hmm yeah, and it reminds me of something... what was it...oh yes...

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    With all due respect, some asses are very, very desirable...
     
  10. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    True, but that's not the kind I'm talking about.

    Compared to your lovely PCs, it's like the ACs aren't even made by the same company — it appears to be Patek's weakest category. And some, such as the 5960, are real donkeys. :p
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2016
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  11. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    There is of course a reason why I have only PCs and not ACs from said venerable watchmaker...
     
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  12. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    @BostonHedonist

    I don't think many would argue that Parmigiani isn't a very respected watchmaker. However, as I'm sure you know, his pieces don't hold value very well. That's even compared to the normal large drop-off found in high-end watches - but the silver lining of course, they can be had for a steep discount on the pre-owned market so if you like one, hold out for that.

    Beautiful movements with actual hand finishing that you don't often see at this price point.

    Haven't ever fallen hard for any of the dials but the Tonda 1950 is one of my favorite out of the catalog.
     
  13. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Well, just to be perverse, I like the Langematik Perpetual more than the Annual. I also like the 5146P.

    But I have a Lange thing too, generally.

    Oh, and I like big asses. But that's probably not relevant.
     
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  14. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    On the long 2+hours train journey to work this morning...

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    I first saw a Parmigiani on a colleague's wrist as a trainee many years ago and my initial thought was "another cheap "automatic" watch trying to be flashy, I bet the movement is made of plastic". Like an oversized Swatch skeleton.

    Many years later I figured out they were supposed to be high end, but the aesthetics always felt wrong to me (as opposed to, say, Lange, whose design language is near perfect to my eye).

    Take your Tonda: the dial is clearly a dress watch, yet the hands are made of a white that clashes with the light coloured dial, and definitely feel wrong (too fat?) against the dark one. This is emphasised by the different seconds hand (just a thin sliver of metal, like the hour markers). The slight curve on the sides of the hands as opposed to the straight lines of dauphine hands make the hands even fatter. Then the logo is quite prominent and contrasting. I look at it and it's technically well proportioned, with the ratio of space above it and on its sides proportional to its own aspect ratio, yet it feels wrong, too large, standing out in a way that never is a problem on any other dress watch from the Citizen Stiletto to Patek Calatravas.

    On the upside, they are definitely distinctive in a way that might not be the case with other dress watches (which I'd argue is the point, but some disagree). And the movements are a step above average.
     
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  16. Emospence

    Emospence Well-Known Member

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  17. Omega Male

    Omega Male Senior member

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    No my good sir.

    [​IMG]

    Not that I'd kick a Saxonia Annual out of bed either ...
     
  18. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    Very cogent points. I suppose then the discussion could turn towards whether the fat, luminsecent delta hands - and the blatant maximization of glimmer-producing angled surfaces - constitute a slightly-less-than-subtle challenge to the traditional paradigm of "the classic timepiece..." or are just reflective of unrefined taste.

    I do wholeheartedly agree that the luminescent material clashes with the white dial, but I might challenge the point that the hands are too fat. I rather feel like that is the point, and that the design of the dial seeks to get the other elements out of the way of the hour and minute hands. It is worth noting that the second hand does have a bit of angle and grade to it, though very slight. Rather disappointing that PF decided to use their logo as a critical design-balancing element - as it is certainly not attractive.

    Anyhow, it seems to me that the designer(s) at some point said, "you know what, if we're going to add lume to the hands of a dress watch we're going to make a statement of it." So, perhaps a challenge to the status quo? And who could be at fault for not wanting to squint to read his watch in dim lighting.
     
  19. crdb

    crdb Senior member

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    Yes as usual this is not a critique of the design decision but an expression of my personal taste. I have very conservative taste, at least in watches.

    The chap wearing the Parmigiani was a great guy whose personality the watch really complemented. I would feel wrong wearing such a watch and he'd (I guess) feel less happy wearing something from Lange or Patek.

    Technically this Parmigiani is a half-challenge. The true challenge to the status quo - the tie or "bottom half in jeans" worn to a black tie event rockstar style - would be wearing a Bugatti Type 370 with your black tie outfit, and there are some people whose personality matches that.

    Drawing parallels with composers, judging their work versus their time: Lange is Brahms or maybe Rachmaninov or (Richard) Strauss, never truly straying from the path although (in e.g. the Morceaux de Salon compared to their time, or the themes in Rosenkavalier) there is a very subtle hint of potential for it. I used to snob these composers but the older I get the more drawn I am to their frank honesty. Quartz watches when they came out were like Stockhausen, with the Seiko Astron eventually bringing the "unpalatable" to the mass public like, say, Pink Floyd or any of the number of pop groups that really "experimented" with sound. Well, much as I'd like to signal my high education and taste by pretending to like the Darmstadt lot I'll admit the last time I've voluntarily listened to some was over 10 years ago. Breguet is Beethoven, the untouchable pioneer whose centuries old glory is still worshipped today. Then there is stuff like "Black Angels": more than a decade after Darmstadt, this is not new philosophically, some would say already tasting old fashioned like Brutalist or Metabolist architecture, but there is still a bit of demand from the hardcore and the nostalgic. Maybe I am a bit harsh on Mr Crumb. I won't name the equivalent watch brands that emerge and disappear, instead directing you to a phenomenally funny article on the industry (unfortunately in French): http://www.lesbelleslettres.com/info/?fa=text182. As an entrepreneur, I admire anybody who is willing to make a go of it, no matter how foolish the effort - it's harder than it looks from the outside and the consumer is a ruthless and brutal critic.

    Parmigiani would then be like Scriabin's 5th piano sonata - not, truly, straying, not compared to what is already going on at that point, but completely unique and with personality and craftsmanship. Bit of an anti-climatic end to my rant I guess. I do like the Scriabin.
     
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  20. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Every time I see a Parmigiani, I think how much better a Laurent Ferrier is. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2016
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