• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

reidd

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Messages
798
Reaction score
731
I have not worn that particular watch. I am a big fan of smaller watches. My wrist is about 7.5 inches. This watch on my wrist is 33mm:

View attachment 1608490
If you love it, I wouldn’t let the size bother you. Trends change. Just look at how excited everyone is that the Explorer is back at 36mm. Yours is only a bit smaller.
That Patek is stunning. Which reference is that?
 

officine

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
510
Reaction score
577
I don’t own that watch, but I have a dress Omega with very similar dimensions, and my wrists are the same size as yours. This is how it looks on.
View attachment 1608473
Thanks!
I have not worn that particular watch. I am a big fan of smaller watches. My wrist is about 7.5 inches. This watch on my wrist is 33mm:

View attachment 1608490
If you love it, I wouldn’t let the size bother you. Trends change. Just look at how excited everyone is that the Explorer is back at 36mm. Yours is only a bit smaller.
Ditto

I'm going to go for it. Will keep thread abreast if I can close.
 

Texasmade

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
15,445
Reaction score
16,830
It was just an easy visual for comparison. Look at the Cle or really most of the older designs and you'll see similar dial work with much more detail.

Also, the prive line is supposed to be a higher level of watchmaking and they have Seiko like dials on some of them. So perhaps not as unfair as you're making out.
Comparing Prive to CPCP is probably more fair than comparing a standard Tank Solo to a CPCP Tank LC.

I'm sure if you compare a current Tank LC to an older model Tank LC, the dials are pretty similar. Same if you start comparing the old vs new Santos.
 

bdavro23

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,019
Reaction score
3,404
Comparing Prive to CPCP is probably more fair than comparing a standard Tank Solo to a CPCP Tank LC.

I'm sure if you compare a current Tank LC to an older model Tank LC, the dials are pretty similar. Same if you start comparing the old vs new Santos.
1620831752347.png

1620831804738.png
 

Dino944

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Messages
6,436
Reaction score
5,608
What about the manual wind XL Santos Dumont model? I'm guessing the dressier Santos Dumonts have not been as popular.

Since the Cartier talk from a few weeks ago I've been looking at Tank Americaine's, Cintree's and Santos Dumont's online and instagram quite a bit lately.
I don't think the modern Santos Dumont XL/Manual is as popular as the Santos de Cartier, as it is seen as more of a dress watch, which makes it less versatile for a lot of people. As I mentioned a while ago, although some brands may be less affected by this, a friend at an AD for Breguet, Cartier, GP, Grand Seiko, Panerai etc (they used to have VC too), said dress watches especially gold one are tough to sell these days. He said most people want steel sports watches. Personally, I also like the flat bezel found on prior Santos Dumonts, or the Santos Dumont of the mid to late 2000s that had no bezel. The angled bezel of the current Santos Dumont isn't my favorite. Personally, I'd rather have a Cintree to a Santos Dumont.

I was surprised to find I liked the navy a lot more. The dial is beautiful, and IMO the large size is not too big (I think the dial is actually a bit smaller than my DJ). The bracelet system is clever. Very unique watcMy main concerns are
1) I noticed the difference between the highly polished bezel and the more brushed bracelet a few times
2) Durability (scratches) of the bezel
3) How versatile it is (can it go from dressy to casual) relative to a round watch

I have a week to make a decision
It wears nicely as the case and lugs are curved, so it really hugs the wrist.
1. As for the contrast of the bezel to the brushed surface of the bracelet, that is just part of the design of the Santos de Cartier. They have always had a polished bezel. However, even Rolex gives their DJs a contrasting finish, between a brushed case and a polished or fluted bezel. In the end, either you like the contrast of brushed and polished finish or you don't.
2. If you are rough on your watches and hate scratches, the bezel will scratch. Maybe it isn't for you. I'm pretty good with watches and usually wear mine with long sleeves. To date, nothing noticeable has happened to my bezel. I've seen some that are scratched up, but over time if it gets lots of scratches it will look less shiny. Or you could go with the steel and ADLC version although, that looks more sporty and is less versatile in my opinion.
3. Personally, I find it is very easy to wear casually. I wear mine with jeans all the time. I even added the rubber strap from an ADLC version, which further dresses it down. I would wear my Santos with any clothes or for any occasion that I would wear a DJ.


https%3A//i.imgur.com/OBO8Gx9l.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/99rH7zql.jpg[/img]']



I have a huge affinity for Cartier, but I think the dials on their current line up are a far cry from the gems they used to produce. It feels like there were some MBAs involved who cut production costs at the expense of the finer details.
Well, the old Privee collection was really a very specialized product, very limited production, and most were rather dressy. Still, if someone doesn't like their current dials, and one has the means, one can commission a bespoke piece, or choose and existing watch but commission a different dial. That is what Wei Koh did with his Tank Cintree.
 
Last edited:

RSS

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
10,749
Reaction score
2,065
I'm coming to this august body to see if anyone has familiarity with the Breguet 5907..specifically how it wears given its modest size. I have opportunity to procure one at a good price and find it stunningly beautiful; however, I've not been able to see one in the flesh. My sole concern is how it wears. My sweet spot for pure dress watches is 36mm-37mm. This is a 34.5mm diameter, with long flat lugs measuring 42mm lug-to-lug. My wrist size is 6.75" (171cm). I'm hoping someone on the thread owns or has owned the piece. Any feedback is appreciated.

Here is an example off the web:

View attachment 1608329
I don't have that particular watch. My wrists are about 7 1/4. I wear a 34mm JLC Gentlehomme and am very fond of it. Back in ye old days, watches were smaller than they tend to be now and men were fine with them. And this is a "dress watch".

I think I "need" that Breguet.
 
Last edited:

Ambulance Chaser

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Mar 7, 2002
Messages
12,676
Reaction score
6,330
Damn @pmeis, I had decided to stay put with 10 watches and you had to post that picture. How are you enjoying the watch? Do you think it is a keeper?
 

Loathing

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
1,337
Reaction score
631
As I mentioned a while ago, although some brands may be less affected by this, a friend at an AD for Breguet, Cartier, GP, Grand Seiko, Panerai etc (they used to have VC too), said dress watches especially gold one are tough to sell these days. He said most people want steel sports watches.
I’ve heard this a lot but haven’t noticed any discounting, even on the secondary market. SS watches are at a huge premium but gold ones seem flat rather than down. That suggests they are selling well just not with the hype of SS, or else stock is building up.

Well, the old Privee collection was really a very specialized product, very limited production, and most were rather dressy. Still, if someone doesn't like their current dials, and one has the means, one can commission a bespoke piece, or choose and existing watch but commission a different dial. That is what Wei Koh did with his Tank Cintree.
Do you know how much an MTO Cartier starts at? I have to imagine it’s a very high number and probably only available to regular customers, otherwise you’d see them on the secondary market.
 

Keith T

TWAT Master.
Joined
Apr 17, 2004
Messages
1,783
Reaction score
1,343
Just to chime in re: dress watch sizing, I personally would have no reservations about something in the 34-35 mm range. Especially for a great vintage piece or something that really suited my personal taste. Probably anything smaller than that might be pushing it, but the Patek that @chocomallo posted looks really sharp at 33 => so as always, it truly does come down to the watch itself and how it wears on your wrist (lugs, strap size, and all the other usual factors).
 

Dino944

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Messages
6,436
Reaction score
5,608
That suggests they are selling well just not with the hype of SS, or else stock is building up.

Do you know how much an MTO Cartier starts at? I have to imagine it’s a very high number and probably only available to regular customers, otherwise you’d see them on the secondary market.
Well, it may depend on some regions, but a former Patek dealer in my area gave up its Patek contract. They said the only inquiries we are getting regularly from customers are for the steel Nautilus and Aquanaut. No one is coming in for other pieces, its just not worth it for us. They still had plenty of stock left even with a 20% discount when they were dropping the line. Not sure if they dumped the rest with a gray dealer.

I have no idea what a commissioned piece starts at with Cartier. However, I doubt it makes sense for someone to commission a special version of a watch that's say under $15K. I'm far from one of their big client's, but when I was looking at a watch and some of its details didn't appeal to me, my SA offered to put in an application for a unique piece, but I declined. It wasn't a watch that was totally in love with even if the details were changed. Cartier collectors love special or very rare pieces. The ones that become available end up in the hands of big time collectors through auctions or specialty shops sourcing items for them. They aren't pieces you'll see on Chrono24/online sites or average brick & mortar stores.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Favorite Shorts Length

  • Above the knee

  • Knee length

  • Below the knee

  • None of the above

  • Mid-thigh ("short shorts")


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
461,729
Messages
10,018,092
Members
208,423
Latest member
hitechbimservices
Top