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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

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  1. RockDove

    RockDove Active Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Braun watches!! It's the simple things that tend to stick around longer.....IMHO


    [​IMG]
     
  2. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    A Baselworld 2016 one watch candidate.

    Like I said before, nothing big or fancy.
     
  3. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    I bought my MUT Moon from Govberg. No qualms. I believe I got about 20% off.
     
  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Thanks for the info
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2016
  5. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Hi Ben,

    Yes, I have the XL Tank Louis Cartier CPCP version from 2008. There were several things that drew me to my watch and I will get to them shortly. However, the watch you are considering "The current XL Tank" had not been released back when I was purchasing my new XL Tank back in 2008. So one could not consider both back then.

    There are actually several differences between the discontinued (or in Cartier speak "Retired") CPCP XL Tank Louis Cartier and the current model. Both are great watches, you just have to decide which one is best for you. Some of the main differences are the size, dial, movement, and case. The current model is both slightly longer and wider 40.4 x 34.9 than my Tank XL which is 39.2x 30mm. Sizing of square and rectangular watches always wears larger than on round watches, so its important to try them to see how they look and feel on your wrist. The width of the new one also results in the strap starting out significantly wider at the case head/lugs and then tapering almost immediately, rather than it more gradually tapering.

    As you noted the dials are different, with the current one having a silver grained dial, and the old CPCP having a guilloche dial, with rose motif at the center and the word Paris on the dial, which was used on many of their very old pieces. The guilloche does have at least in most lighting situations give the dial a more silver or truer silver appearance while the current model almost looks cream colored in some lighting situations.

    In addition, the thickness and movements are quite different. The current model is an ultra-thin watch, and IIRC it uses a Piaget based ultra-thin movement and it has a thinner case to go with the thinner movement. It also has a solid case back, while the old CPCP had a display back. My watch while dressy and thin, was not intended to be an "Ultra-thin" model and it does not use an ultra-thin case or movement. However, its rectangular Piaget based movement in the CPCP version is one of my favorite elements of the watch. Most square and rectangular cased watches use small round movements as its more cost effective than make something from the ground up or trying to source a less commonly built rectangular or square movement.

    The Tank Louis Cartier XLs are probably a much lower production product and somewhat rarer than many of Cartier's round wrist watches. Its both a function of its price and that more people choose round watches than rectangular or square watches. However, the CPCP Tank XL was a limited production watch, with 200 being produced in rose gold and 50 being made in platinum. Which is nice if you appreciate exclusivity, but can be a pain if you are trying to source one pre-owned. I actually know 2 other owners of the CPCP Tank XLs, and we have all had unsolicited offers to buy them, but we all like them so much that none of us have plans to sell them.

    While there are several good choices for square/rectangular watches, my favorite is the Tank Louis Cartier. Its a design that has literally stood the test of time with the original design dating back nearly 100 years to 1917. It looks wonderful paired with a suit, or with a tuxedo (if one doesn't live by the ancient don't wear a watch with your tux rule), and which in XL sizing looks great with casual wear. I actually like how the Tank looks with casual clothing far more than some other dress watches I've seen paired with jeans and a golf shirt such as Calatravas or Patrimonys. I think both Tank XL versions are great watches. Its definitely a watch that I never get tired of looking at or wearing and its still one of my favorite pieces in my collection.

    I hope this helped.
    Best regards,
    Dino

    Below are a few photos. Enjoy!

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    [​IMG]
     
    9 people like this.
  6. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    Well, I've just picked up my watch and I think it's a real beauty--the Tudor Heritage Black Bay 36. Did anyone guess or have an inkling?

    Like I said, nothing too fancy or anything, but I like things clean and simple. And 36mm looks quite large on my slender wrists. Very comfortable, very classy (IMO). A nice one-watch candidate to go along with my Sub. Here are the (crappy cell phone) piccies:

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    Now, where's your reveal @AriGold :D
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2016
    17 people like this.
  7. bespoken pa

    bespoken pa Senior member

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    I've been looking at the tudor submariner lately as well as the black Bay great looking watch @TheWraith
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. roomiller

    roomiller Senior member

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    Absolutely beautiful. People complain about the hour hand coupled with the circular hour marks, but I think its a ridiculous criticism. The square markers on the Pelagos scream "utilitarian"; the hard angles are somewhat cold and uninviting. When I look at the Heritage Black Bay 36(I really don't understand why Tudor stuck with the Black Bay name for this), the watch face is so - cute isn't the right word but - cute? Compared to the Explorer, I think I'd pick the Tudor every time.

    If they release a 39mm version, I'm going to have a very hard time not picking one up.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    Thanks guys :)

    I guess it's a Black Bay in the same way an Aqua Terra is a Seamaster.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Knowing your taste a little by now, I did have an inkling when you posted the "new at Baselworld" teaser. And "one watch" definitely pointed at this.

    It looks fantastic on you. I really like it: understated combination of historical reference and clean, modern styling. Great kop, Frank!
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. atia2

    atia2 Senior member

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    Congratulations from a fellow wearer of 36mm wristwatches. It's a great size - understated, functional, and generally with less crap on the dial - and this is a great example.

    The choice exudes class and self-confidence. Anything larger is a clock.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Anything larger is most watches; certainly all of mine. Bar one.

    My 35mm says hello, because I'm all man.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2016
    2 people like this.
  13. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    Thanks guys.

    Good guessing there, mimo. You do know me then.

    Funny story with this kop. I saw pics of it online last month and thought, I wouldn't mind having that. Contacted the local AD, asked if they do layby (my wife prefers it when I purchase that way). They said they do a 3 month layby but that there's a 6 month waiting list for the watch as they're only given one watch a month from the manufacturer. Great, I think. Plenty of time to fund this. Less than a week later and they call to let me know the watch is here do I want to put my deposit down now? Eeek! But I go ahead with it and 3 weeks (not months) later the watch is mine. My Aqua Terra and Raymond Weil funded this but it was worth it I think :)
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  14. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    That sounds like a great work of consolidation. :)
     
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  15. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Looks Great! Congrats and enjoy it my friend! [​IMG]
     
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  16. rnguy001

    rnguy001 Senior member

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    ^ Congrats @TheWraith. Classic always kills.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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    +1 ...wear it in good health!
     
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  18. BenLeaman

    BenLeaman Senior member

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    Thank you for the very insightful response! I need a minute for it all to soak in but you sure make a good argument for the CPCP :)
     
  19. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Your very welcome. Both are great watches, so no matter which you choose you really can't go wrong. I don't have the largest of wrists, so the slightly smaller size of the Tank XL CPCP is a bit better fit for me. However, the current model could be a better fit for you depending on wrist size. Also some folks may prefer the simpler non-guilloched dial. Anyway, wishing you luck with whatever you decide. [​IMG]
     
  20. jaypee

    jaypee Senior member

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    Does anyone in NY have a recommendation for vintage Omega servicing?
     

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