The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[il_colonnello]

It's surprising how not Rolex-dominated the discussions ITT are.

The green Aquanaut as well as green FPJ are abominations, worse even than the thankfully discontinued Hulk. They all look like toy watches.

 

[NadalRG]

What is the general consensus with the quartz Cartier Santos Dumont?

I know the watch community loves to shit on quartz watches, but I think Cartier did an excellent job with their 6 yr battery life and in house movement, also the watch is simply beautiful.

I'm talking about the reference model WSAA0022.

Interested in hearing some thoughts on this watch.

 

[bdavro23]

What is the general consensus with the quartz Cartier Santos Dumont?

I know the watch community loves to shit on quartz watches, but I think Cartier did an excellent job with their 6 yr battery life and in house movement, also the watch is simply beautiful.

I'm talking about the reference model WSAA0022.

Interested in hearing some thoughts on this watch.

I would be very hard pressed to buy quartz watch for a sizable sum of money. There are exceptions, but those generally have more to do with other features of the watch, rather than them having a quartz movement.

As for the Santos Dumont, Cartier has made many beautiful iterations of that watch over the years and I bought one of the CPCP editions for my wife a few years ago. You can find manual wind versions well under $5,000, and if price is the main driver I would advocate saving up for the mechanical version over the quartz.

 

[NadalRG]

I would be very hard pressed to buy quartz watch for a sizable sum of money. There are exceptions, but those generally have more to do with other features of the watch, rather than them having a quartz movement.

As for the Santos Dumont, Cartier has made many beautiful iterations of that watch over the years and I bought one of the CPCP editions for my wife a few years ago. You can find manual wind versions well under $5,000, and if price is the main driver I would advocate saving up for the mechanical version over the quartz.

Again, the movement nor the price is my main concern. I think Cartier has not made the same iteration of the model WSAA0022 with a mechanical movement. I like the watch for it's aesthetics primarily, it's thinner and IMHO more refined than the WSSA0009 model, it is IMO more of a dress watch, if they told you it was a mechanical movement you'd probably have the same opinion, maybe?

 

[bdavro23]

Again, the movement nor the price is my main concern. I think Cartier has not made the same iteration of the model WSAA0022 with a mechanical movement. I like the watch for it's aesthetics primarily, it's thinner and IMHO more refined than the WSSA0009 model, it is IMO more of a dress watch, if they told you it was a mechanical movement you'd probably have the same opinion, maybe?

Well, if you like it, get it. I think the dial is very flat and it honestly looks a little down market to me in comparison to the past editions of the Santos, but taste is in the mouth. Thats why they make different models so we can all find something we like.

Good luck with your purchase.

 

[mockingboy]

Again, the movement nor the price is my main concern. I think Cartier has not made the same iteration of the model WSAA0022 with a mechanical movement. I like the watch for it's aesthetics primarily, it's thinner and IMHO more refined than the WSSA0009 model, it is IMO more of a dress watch, if they told you it was a mechanical movement you'd probably have the same opinion, maybe?

I think it’s a little too squared off and flat; I wouldn’t buy a quartz watch like that but even putting that aside I don’t think it’s flattering. it looks cheap putting aside the name cartier.

In the price range I would probably look at grand Seiko which are more refined, better looking, mechanical and great finishes.

 

[dan'l]

I believe the Cartier pieces with quartz movements (e.g. Tank) have a different dial vs. the other movements. The manual version has a guilloche dial, if I recall correctly.

 

[Scuppers]

Hmmm, I’ll pay more attention in the future, had never noticed that.

 

[Scuppers]

Re: Quartz, i have one, i do get a lot of ”why” from my watch buddies, but also lots of praise - due to it being a Journe. From joe public, which of them notices or cares? None, I suspect. However, @NadalRG I wouldn’t buy the quartz variant of the santos, not only is it uninteresting and flat, Cartier have much nicer past and present options.

 

[il_colonnello]

What is the general consensus with the quartz Cartier Santos Dumont?

I know the watch community loves to shit on quartz watches, but I think Cartier did an excellent job with their 6 yr battery life and in house movement, also the watch is simply beautiful.

I'm talking about the reference model WSAA0022.

Interested in hearing some thoughts on this watch.

Great Cartier admirer here; I have the (non-Dumont) Santos. I see what you mean about the Dumont having a more refined aesthetic. (At the same time, I feel its ultra-fine roman numerals give it a vaguely more feminine appearance, but I guess once you have decided you want to wear Cartier that doesn't really matter any more.)

Quartz movements obviously have their place in technological stuff such as G-Shocks, but I feel they are out of place in a high-end dress watch. I greatly regret the Tank also isn't available with an automatic movement unless you go for the XL version, which I find badly proportioned. I guess it's slightly more acceptable in the Tank as well as Santos Dumont as at least they both don't have a seconds hand. Quartz with seconds hand is where I would draw the line.

Good luck with your purchase; I am sure you will enjoy it either way!

 

[bdavro23]

I believe the Cartier pieces with quartz movements (e.g. Tank) have a different dial vs. the other movements. The manual version has a guilloche dial, if I recall correctly.

In the past, this was correct, but looking at the current line up of Santos, it looks like all of them have the flat/ sunburst dials. Maybe I just didnt look in the right place, but if thats true then its a big shame. Those guilloche dials are exquisite.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

What is the general consensus with the quartz Cartier Santos Dumont?

I know the watch community loves to shit on quartz watches, but I think Cartier did an excellent job with their 6 yr battery life and in house movement, also the watch is simply beautiful.

I'm talking about the reference model WSAA0022.

Interested in hearing some thoughts on this watch.

Don't worship at the altar of the automatic movement. If the movement is what is most important to you, then by all means, that should guide your purchasing decisions. Personally, I agree with others above; paying those kinds of prices for a quartz watch is a line I won't cross. But that's a personal decision based on what I value.

Quartz does offer a few advantages:
1) They are generally thinner (though there are thin automatic watches out there). In the case of the Santos, the automatics are definitely a bit thicker than the quartz. This may or may not be something that is important to you

2) If you are really wanting a watch with precious metals, this should also be a consideration. Consider the price of a rose gold quartz Santos vs. the automatic. You can get a lot of bang for the buck.

3) You don't have to fuss with setting it or having to buy a winder. I remember the first time I bought a watch for my wife, an Oris big date, some years ago. I made the rookie mistake of buying a watch based on what I considered to be important vs. what she appreciated. She liked the watch, but was constantly asking me to set it for her and when the movement finally gave out, the cost to repair it was almost as much as I paid for the watch (I got it on sale).

Needless to say, her watches are now all quartz. She actually has two Cartier watches with quartz movements and they are fine. Never had any problems with them and battery replacement is simple. More importantly, she wears them and likes them.

 

[Dino944]

Again, the movement nor the price is my main concern. I think Cartier has not made the same iteration of the model WSAA0022 with a mechanical movement. I like the watch for it's aesthetics primarily, it's thinner and IMHO more refined than the WSSA0009 model, it is IMO more of a dress watch, if they told you it was a mechanical movement you'd probably have the same opinion, maybe?

Many collectors struggle with the idea of spending a significant sum on a quartz watch (then again "Normal" people struggle with the idea of spending more on a watch than what an Apple watch costs ). Collectors hear the word quartz feel like they are getting a nice watch case, but nothing of substance inside of it. When reference WSAA0022 was released several collectors took to social media, praising the design, but said they would not entertain a model like this without a mechanical movement. Cartier gave them their wish, but as you know with a slightly larger XL case.

As for the thinness of the quartz version versus the mechanical, it is something no one will ever notice, not even you, and not even in a side by side comparison unless you get out a pair of calipers. The quartz model you are inquiring about is 7.3mm while the mechanical larger size is 7.5mm. The difference is about a 1/4 of a mm. So I don't think thinness should be a consideration in this as it is truly academic at best.

If you don't feel the XL mechanical size works for your wrist, well then I can see that being a significant concern that might push you toward a quartz version or maybe a different version from the past.

Personally, I like the dials of some previous models (the guilloche and the font for the Romans), and the flat bezel rather than the angled bezel appeal to me more than on the current model. However, that is subjective. The font and elongation of the Romans and non guilloche dial on the current model is closer in design to the original Santos Dumont watches of the early 1900s.

The only high priced quartz watch I've ever purchased was a Rolex Oysterquartz ref 17000. I owned a few Rolex watches and for me it was an interesting footnote in Rolex history. It was a first for them in many ways, the first steel Rolex to have a sapphire synthetic crystal, solid bracelet links, it was more antimagnetic than the famed Milgauss of the past, and it used a very high quality in house movement with 11 jewels and construction that did not look that different from other traditional Rolex movements except for the electronics and pulse motor. It also had a very distinctive case and bracelet setting it apart from other Rolex models. Funny thing about it was that even when wearing it into a watch shop or jewelry store, most people saw the ticking hand and thought it was a fake Rolex. Some had no idea the model even existed, even when I went into stores that sold Rolex. The only person that took a particular interest in it was a watch maker at an AP boutique. I had a question about a Royal Oak Jumbo, and the sales associate thought their watch maker would be better suited to answer the question. He came out answered my question, and then asked if he could look at my watch. So I let him look at it, and he seemed to be inspecting it rather closely while I continued chatting with the SA.

I do think changing batteries on older quartz watches can be a bit of an annoyance (although Rolex service centers at least in the US do it for free on their watches). 6 years between needing a new battery reduces the hassle of dealing with that. While that it an accomplishment, it still doesn't sell me on the quartz version of a current Santos Dumont.

I'm rarely someone who advocates a steel and gold watch, but I were going for a current Santos Dumont, I would consider the limited edition manual wind steel and gold "Le 14 Bis." It is ref W2SA 0015. It is a size large, not an XL, so it gives you the same dimensions as quartz ref WSAA0022, but with a mechanical movement and IMHO a more interesting dark gray sunburst dial.

I tried it on several weeks ago at a boutique. Maybe not for everyone, but they aren't making enough for everyone anyway. One thing that is nice is these newer pieces have a "Quickswitch" type system for changing straps. Anyway, wishing you lots of luck with your decision. Let us know what you decide and be sure to share some photos of whatever you choose. Cheers!

PS...my wrist isn't sweaty in the photos below. Due to Covid, they wrap your wrist in plastic at the boutique, prior to having you try on the watch.


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https%3A//i.imgur.com/YNQhHlil.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/YNQhHlil.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/r3ZlkIol.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/r3ZlkIol.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/iff0PpUl.jpg[/img]']

 

[edinatlanta]

If I ask you who the best quarterback of all time is, and I say Dan Marino, but you say potato, then there’s no discourse to be had. It’s like throwing pearls to pigs.

Because Thomas Edward Patrick Brady Jr. is still a sentient human.

 

[NadalRG]

Thank you all for your expert opinions. One of the reasons I considered the quartz is because I have a pretty small wrist and larger more bulkier models would not look flattering on me. While the “Le 14 Bis” is a gorgeous watch, I already own a grey dial watch in the form of an Omega Constellation reference 123.10.38.21.06.002. So I wanted a white face this time around.