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usctrojans31

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I was early for a meeting in midtown today and checked out Wempe while I waited. Saw the new Chopard derivative 3000 watch. It's not better in person.
 

radicaldog

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I'm
looking for a "one watch" solution, and my thinking is still in flux, so please help me out. I have been going through the following reasoning lately.

I love the Rolex Explorer I. I love the general vision that made Rolex what it is: no frills, innovative, well-finished, reliable, accurate and fuss-free. No need or desire to bother with haute horologerie. To achieve those values in the mid-20th century it made sense to produce steel-cased automatic watches. The Explorer I (1016 and 6610 especially) is my personal favourite: a tool watch, but one discreet enough to just about work with a suit and tie. The pre-Explorers were perhaps even better in this respects, with their applied indices. Icing on the cake: prices tracked production costs, not desirability as a status symbol.

Modern Rolex is a different story. As I see it, it's a relentless, romantic pursuit of perfection in an outdated technology. And prices levitated for all sorts of reasons--they simply are what the market will bear, and the market has changed dramatically, partly as a result of the introduction of new technologies. The modern Rolex vision is admirable and fascinating vision but, somewhat paradoxically, it's different from the original one that put the brand on its exalted pedestal.

The above analysis leaves me with two options: (1) find a vintage Explorer I and celebrate a mid-century achievement and a storied name (and sacrifice some practicality), or (2) find a watch that would be what Rolex would be producing now if they had been established around 1975 and adhered to their original mission.

So here comes my question for the experts on here: if I were to pursue (2), which watches should I consider? My sense is that I should look at top range solar-powered titanium or ceramic HAQ watches that would work on a bracelet, leather strap, and nato strap.

For example, The Citizen Chronomaster Eco-Drive AQ4020-03E reminds me of some pre-Explorers with its matte (paper!) dial (though I don't like the date window). It's as autonomous and fuss-free as they come, it's excellently finished, it's at the forefront of the industry's technical developments. The latest models they presented at Basel are even more cutting-edge but they're dressier, I think. I'm also looking at a few other HAQ options but I think solar power is essential here -- solar is to battery what automatic was to hand-winding in the 40s.

Am I looking in the right place? What else should I consider? Many thanks in advance for your advice!

1256705
 

radicaldog

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PS these Grand Seikos also appeal, though they’re not solar -

 

LA Guy

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I'm
looking for a "one watch" solution, and my thinking is still in flux, so please help me out. I have been going through the following reasoning lately.

I love the Rolex Explorer I. I love the general vision that made Rolex what it is: no frills, innovative, well-finished, reliable, accurate and fuss-free. No need or desire to bother with haute horologerie. To achieve those values in the mid-20th century it made sense to produce steel-cased automatic watches. The Explorer I (1016 and 6610 especially) is my personal favourite: a tool watch, but one discreet enough to just about work with a suit and tie. The pre-Explorers were perhaps even better in this respects, with their applied indices. Icing on the cake: prices tracked production costs, not desirability as a status symbol.

Modern Rolex is a different story. As I see it, it's a relentless, romantic pursuit of perfection in an outdated technology. And prices levitated for all sorts of reasons--they simply are what the market will bear, and the market has changed dramatically, partly as a result of the introduction of new technologies. The modern Rolex vision is admirable and fascinating vision but, somewhat paradoxically, it's different from the original one that put the brand on its exalted pedestal.

The above analysis leaves me with two options: (1) find a vintage Explorer I and celebrate a mid-century achievement and a storied name (and sacrifice some practicality), or (2) find a watch that would be what Rolex would be producing now if they had been established around 1975 and adhered to their original mission.

So here comes my question for the experts on here: if I were to pursue (2), which watches should I consider? My sense is that I should look at top range solar-powered titanium or ceramic HAQ watches that would work on a bracelet, leather strap, and nato strap.

For example, The Citizen Chronomaster Eco-Drive AQ4020-03E reminds me of some pre-Explorers with its matte (paper!) dial (though I don't like the date window). It's as autonomous and fuss-free as they come, it's excellently finished, it's at the forefront of the industry's technical developments. The latest models they presented at Basel are even more cutting-edge but they're dressier, I think. I'm also looking at a few other HAQ options but I think solar power is essential here -- solar is to battery what automatic was to hand-winding in the 40s.

Am I looking in the right place? What else should I consider? Many thanks in advance for your advice!

View attachment 1256705
I think that it's impossible to extrapolate. Go for a good early Explorer, or, one watch that I really like, the Air King 5500 with numerals. If you want a tool watch that does exactly what it sholuld, and nothing more, I like that.

I know that this is not what you are looking for, but me, I'm looking for a good Datejust 1603 or maybe 16030, or, if the dial is right, the 1601. I feel that these watches are possibly (?) as close to a "wear anywhere" watch as you could want - they are not dress watches, per se, but they are not meant to be overly rugged either. It really seems that that range is really the workhorse watch meant to work in most situations.
 

ericleavitt

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How do you guys feel about omega planet ocean sea master in the 38 or 40m version? For my everyday watch. Don’t have a watch yet. Would prefer a patek nautilus but I’m 22 so don’t got 40-50k for a watch.

I’ll probably put it on an olive canvas strap.
 

Texasmade

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How do you guys feel about omega planet ocean sea master in the 38 or 40m version? For my everyday watch. Don’t have a watch yet. Would prefer a patek nautilus but I’m 22 so don’t got 40-50k for a watch.

I’ll probably put it on an olive canvas strap.
The PO’s are all too thick. Only PO worth getting is the first generation 42mm version with the co-axial 2500 movement
 

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