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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    I loved the Portuguese chrono early in my watch interest days and while I am a Crown fanboi, I do not like the contrasting markers on the OP. I understand how the IWC draws people in as it is from a reputable brands, is minimal compared to some chronos, and the numerals are easy on the eyes.

    My vote would be for the IWC though as others have mentioned, it is not able to pull black tie duty. The only reason I wore my GMT with a tux is because it was my wedding gift.
     


  2. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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    May I offer up a suggestion? How about a Datejust 116200 silver dial with stick indicies and a roulette date wheel. Seems like this could offer the right balance of sport and formal. But if it's between those two, I'd pick the OP.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016


  3. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Congrats! Love the original Lange 1 Moonphase. Nice choice!
    My vote would be for the Rolex because of its quality, its movement and its classic design. The Rolex is more versatile, has a high quality in house movement, and it will maintain its value far better. I could wear it with a suit, jeans, and although its not truly a dress watch, its going to look far more subdued and appropriate with a tux (if you have to), than a big 41mm sports watch with chronograph buttons etc. Although, we all know technically you are not supposed to wear a watch with a tux, when I think if watches that could be worn with a tux they are generally time only, modestly sized, subdued designs. They aren't chronographs. I suppose if you feel at 39mm its a tad small you could consider the slightly larger but sportier (with orange lightning bolt seconds hand) Milguass which is 40mm.

    I like some of the older IWC pilot watches from the 1990s into the 2000s (good quality, attractive designs, and reasonably priced considering they used outsourced movements). However, I have always been unimpressed and underwhelmed by the IWC Portuguese chronograph. A generic outsourced movement that at today's prices, when compared to the Rolex, essentially turns it into a pricey fashion watch IMHO (all case and not much substance). I also find its one of IWCs most commonly worn IWCs on younger guys (I see this and the steel IWC BPs on lots of the wealthy college students in Boston), and I wonder if as you transition into your 30's etc. whether you will outgrow it and wish you had gone with a more classic design.

    I think the IWC will look great with jeans and you can probably get away with it when wearing a suit, but I just think this is going to look silly and inappropriate based on size and design with a tux. Although, I would guess you will see other guys wearing plastic Casios with suits or even tux's so, at least it will look better than that. However, its still not a tux watch (but perhaps you need to consider how often you wear tuxes.

    Although, I prefer the Rolex OP to the Omegas you previously mentioned, I prefer the Omega's you had mentioned over this IWC. Anyway, wishing you luck with your decision.
     


  4. firenze_rob

    firenze_rob Senior member

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  5. UnFacconable

    UnFacconable Senior member

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    If we are going to be strict about tuxes, I would point out that many (ok some and I guess after refreshing I see that Dino beat me to the punch) would say you shouldn't wear any wristwatch with a tux because a watch says you care what time it is and have somewhere to go to and for semi-formal and formal events you shouldn't be looking at a watch you should be enjoying the company.

    Bottom line unless you are on the clock at black tie events regularly, does it really make sense to justify a watch like this based on whether it can do double dirty as a formal watch?

    Of course few if any will care notice if you have a casual watch on at a black tie event. But if there is a desire to be "correct" then nothing is better than going watch free. The next best thing according to people who care about this would be a simple time only precious metal watch on a black alligator strap.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016


  6. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    Why not.

    [​IMG]
     


  7. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    "we all know technically you are not supposed to wear a watch with a tux"

    Not you too! It is completely acceptable to wear a dress watch with a tux.

    In fact, there is a long history of watches with black tie, starting back with pocket watches, then onto wrist. When you look at the history of formal and semi-formal dress, once timepieces became popular the dress code followed suit... indeed, the tuxes had pockets for them and you can see the chains on some old pictures.. When the style switched over to wrist watches after the wars so to did black tie.

    Now you can say you don't have to wear a watch with a tux or you don't prefer to wear a watch with a tux, but this 'rule' of not supposed to is internet lore.

    http://www.blacktieguide.com/Vintage/Vintage_Accessories.htm
    http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Accessories.htm
     


  8. Keith T

    Keith T TWAT Master.

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    ^^^@francisco-bt: respectfully, and not to discount all of the great, thoughtful replies-- I do believe this one may have already smiled back at you.^^^




    Here's my Reverso....


    [​IMG]
     


  9. DLJr

    DLJr TWAT Master.

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    Agreed, while neither would be my choice for black tie, if you made me choose, I'd wear the IWC. That said, I can't imagine black tie driving a one watch decision; I just can't imagine it being a big enough slice of the wrist time pie chart to move the needle on the decision.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016


  10. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    Agreed on the DJ as an all around watch.

    [​IMG]
     


  11. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    Just wondering how Baume & Mercier made the cut and Lange didn't for the thread title.
     


  12. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    My wrist is the same size, and 42 mm is the largest I'll wear. That said, several factors besides case width affect how large a watch looks on your wrist. These include bezel width, dial color, and lug-to-lug length. In my experience, dive watches tend to wear a little smaller than their listed size because of their wider bezel and darker face. The Tudor will definitely look smaller than the IWC Portuguese pictured on this page. As always, try before you buy.
     


  13. jbarwick

    jbarwick Senior member

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    I wanted to mention this earlier but decided not to. Could also throw in IWC, Nomos, Seiko and a host of others as well but I think Lange is a must.
     


  14. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    I don't think any slight against Lange was intended. The brands mentioned in the title seem to be the ones most frequently mentioned in the thread. I'm more surprised that Panerai didn't make the cut.
     


  15. alpyigit

    alpyigit Well-Known Member

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