Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.
The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Pi...
I narrowed my next purchase to these two very different options:
Rolex Oyster Perpetual - I like really like its simple, elegant design. Feels rugged and its color makes it easy to go with many outfits. Being 39mm feels a tad small.
IWC Portuguese - I just find this watch stunning. I like the 41mm size and the blue leather strap, but feel it might not be as "timeless" as the Rolex.
Which one would you pick and why? For context, I am in my late 20's, working on wall street and this would be my first and only expensive watch. I'm wondering if I could wear each:
1) At the office (with navy/charcoal suits)
2) Casually with jeans a shirt
3) With a tux
As always, your feedback is greatly appreciated!
TWAT will favor the Rolex, but here's a vote for the Portuguese.
Same watch as every day Still very satisfied though.
Although I get the initial appeal of the Port chrono — it's a watch I liked when I first started getting into them — the more I learn about watches, the less interest I have in it. I find it difficult to justify its pricing given that it's a generic-movement watch on a strap, and I don't find its design to be all that special, either. I think Nomos is a far better alternative if you're going for that look, plus their service policy is much more customer-friendly than any Richemont company's.
As a quality watch for everyday use, there's a lot to be said for having a simple steel Rolex. 39 mm definitely isn't small for that type of watch, either.
By the way, if you want a watch to wear with a tux, I'd go for something discreet (and likely vintage). It doesn't have to cost much, either; there's some amazing stuff out there for a few hundred bucks if you're patient.
Seeing as everyone else ignored you, I'll try to walk the walk here: nothing wrong with buying a cheap watch, but this is Styleforum, and this is in the Classic Menswear section. So the bias is going to be towards something a bit more substantial.
I have a Sekonda quartz watch I bought as an emergency back up a few years ago. It cost £20, worked fine, kept good time and at first glance looked pretty pleasant. It was what I needed for that particular time. But I say "was" because although I still have it somewhere, I've never bothered changing the battery or using it again. It just doesn't meet the minimum standard of what I want to wear. Watches aren't just functional (or even functional at all when we all carry a self-correcting cellphone), they are art, engineering, and expressions of self. I think as men, we can put watches somewhere between cars and clothes in terms of how we like to identify with them, and how we go about choosing them. We want them to look like we want to look, and we also care about who made them, how, and to do what. A cheap quartz watch is my daughter's high mileage Skoda Fabia: fine for the budget, does the job, and in black it's a pretty nicely designed little car. But it's not me. I drive it, but it would never be my car.
So back to the point, @Suetonius : ask yourself what you're trying to achieve. If you just want a watch, any watch, then get the cheapest one you like and most people won't notice anyway. But if you have a deeper interest, then think a little more about what you're willing to spend on this. For example, if you can go to say, £60-80, then some very appealing Japanese mechanical watches are open to you - Orient Bambino, Seiko 5 are the obvious ones. Not luxury, not prestige per se, but "proper" - in my book anyway. I really like the Seiko 5 Military - got one for my son and we both love it. Get up to £150-200 and there are a lot of great choices from Japan, but also the entry level of Swiss mechanical watches from Tissot or Hamilton. You're really starting to feel like you've got a serious watch then. But it's up to you.
I don't know the site you mentioned, but without looking I'm guessing they specialise in cheaper fashion watches. For some of the ones I've mentioned, check out longislandwatch.com (US) or creationwatches.com (Singapore) for the cheaper ones, and perhaps jomashop.com or ashford.com (both US) for the next step up. I've used all of them without difficulty. Also, check out the Poor Man's Watch Thread for a lot of other ideas - you'll find a lot of the same posters and same advice there, but more focused on an accessible price point: I actually have no watches worth more than the "PMW" threshold of $1000*, so this isn't dick waving. (*OK, "yet"...)
Anyway, good luck, welcome to the TWAT brotherhood, and let us know what happens. Just one word of warning: if you do decide you want to step up your watch aspirations a bit, the slippery slope can be steep and fast
I really like the Portuguese. And I like the OP too - though I'm fine with it in its standard 36mm size. Seriously, I want both.
But, if I can be blunt, get over your "big watch" fixation first: it's a fashion thing right now to carry a tuna can on your wrist, and like any fashion it will pass. Both of the watches you chose are larger than classic already, but should stand the test of time just fine. If anything, they are already a bit showy for the office and definitely too much for your dinner suit: everyone knows what a Rolex looks like, on some level, so a slightly inflated one is even more prominent. And the large dial/narrow bezel of the Portuguese really make it look large, plus the unusual case shape of this version will tend to catch on your sleeve so it's always on show.
Anyway, notes of caution over. If you want other suggestions, you'll certainly get them. Mine might be to get more than one watch - a do-anything watch, and something understated and dressy for black tie or more formal business wear. But if you're set on one of these, then I think it's the Rolex: it's less dressy than the Portuguese, but it's not loud or silly either. And unlike the Portuguese, it will transition very well to jeans and t-shirt. "Get both" is the normal advice here, and sniff around the used listing for the Portuguese because you might find that's possible. But otherwise, grab the OP if you love it, and you'll find a slick vintage dress watch for evening wear under $1k if you want to. @Belligero speaks truth.
P.S. Had to look up who that Eva woman is. She doesn't have a butt either. But I'm not sure as I'm slightly vision-impaired since Keith's video share.
Thoughts on the Tudor Pelagos in black with the new in-house movement? I looks pretty versatile but the 41mm face plus the bezel might be too huge for a smaller wrist (7").
What's a good price for it in the used market with AD papers?
I think you can wear the IWC more easily with a shirt and jeans than the OP with a tux. I'm also not certain how well the contrast markers will age with time.
I agree with Belli though, I don't think the IWC is worth the price tag. I'd also suggest Nomos but I'm also extremely biased.
I can't give you any advice on pricing, but definitely go and try the Pelagos first before you decide whether or not to get one.
I was really attracted to it, but I found that it was just too large for me - but then I'm typically used to lower profile watches of 36 - 38mm diameter.
It's a great watch, but may not be for everyone because of its diameter (actually not that unusual in these days of oversized watches) and its thickness.
If you want the in-house movement, then you might have to wait a while for a good deal used. But my take on the Pelagos is "no". Not that I don't like it, but there were a couple of things that bugged me: firstly, I actually didn't like that it's so light. There's some kind of dissonance in how it feels when it's so utilitarian-looking. I prefer the heft of a steel diver. And secondly, any all-black dive watch is going to be compared to a Submariner, and a Tudor more than most. The Pelagos isn't cheap either, so compared to a classic used Sub, the differentiation isn't sufficient. As for the size, it's a personal thing. My wrist is barely over 7", but a dive watch is supposed to be substantial so it didn't look or feel odd to me. That said, it might just be another argument for a classic Sub - smaller case, narrower lugs, just a little bit less in your face.
By coincidence, I was looking at Tudors at Heathrow yesterday, as it was the first time I've seen the Black Bay Black in the flesh. That's also very vintage-Sub-ish, but cheaper than the Pelagos, pretty sexy, and looks good on a strap.
I wouldn't recommend the OP with a dinner suit either; I like Belli's suggestion of a cheap but classy vintage number for that purpose. As for the contrasting markers, I agree - another reason I like the 36mm version more. But they're not quite as prominent in person.
At around $4k used, I think the Portuguese is a good deal, especially since the new version with a new movement arrived. But yeah, at full price it wouldn't make sense to me either.
I heard that about the contrast markers, but then I tried a couple on in the fall and it's all I can see when I look down. I think it's just a matter of not being able to un-see something that bothers you (obviously just my personal preference); like the winking face in the master geo or maybe that first scratch you get on a lug.
Guys, Rolex OP with a dinner suit will do just fine IMO.
Sure, it's not a big crown Submariner, but I think there's enough shared DNA there to pull it off.
Then again, I'm the dude who wears this with a dinner suit, so...
Mine's actually even more old school - manual wind, movement by FP I believe.
Off of these boards anything will do just fine in any situation for the most part, but since he's asking here, I figured I should shun the idea of an oyster with a tux as much as possible. Rolex Oysters with a tux don't work. Unless your line of work involves attending black tie events where you may also need to fight an international criminal and/or their henchmen, then you don't need to wear anything from Rolex's Oyster line to a black tie event.
To answer from a real world perspective, almost no one will care if you wear the OP with a tux, and almost no one will care if you wear the IWC with sweats.
Lovely Corum by the way.
Quote:1. Both work well enough. Hardcore traditionalists would say no stainless bracelets with suits though. 2. Both work. 3. Neither really works. Need a dress watch for a tux.
Neither really will go with a tux strictly speaking.
Between those two I would go with the Rolex. I am an IWC owner and the Portuguese chrono is a beautiful watch with a unique design, but I think the Rolex is the better choice if you will just have just one watch. More durable, versatile and timeless.
But all of the opinions you get here at the end of the day are just talk. get the one that speaks to you.
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