The Unofficial Sartoria Pastena Elegance Naples Thread

[Marshak]

First ever fitting with Antonio. The fabric is Drapers Ascot 4-ply. Overall a really good start!

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A bit more length and comfort to the breast and you'll be good.

 

[Shetterd]

A bit more length and comfort to the breast and you'll be good.

Thanks! Antonio and I agreed on these alterations at the fitting. The seat on the trousers will also be let out, the armhole lowered a touch, and the back cleaned up. Oh, and half a centimetre added to the lapel (it's 10cm right now).

 

[Megakurth]

How are you liking the progress of your pattern? Are the adjustments producing positive results?

Missed this. I believe so. Looking forward to the final product in late May/early June.

 

[Megakurth]

Received my altered Fox Air Indigo where Antonio was able to pinpoint some of the fit challenges faced, particularly with the jacket chest and trousers. The collar still has a little more gap than I’d like and some wrinkling on the shoulder under the collar, but I can live with and address when Antonio comes back in May

Welcome any thoughts/feedback

 

[xizenta]

Tartan dinner jacket in progress.
Going to have him adjust the break of the lapel, had a little miscommunication which made him break too high.

This will be a one-button, fabric-covered.

 

[Wilson13]

Tartan dinner jacket in progress.
Going to have him adjust the break of the lapel, had a little miscommunication which made him break too high.

This will be a one-button, fabric-covered.

Saw that on IG and really liked the high roll…if it were 3R2

 

[xizenta]

Pastena dinner jacket and matching bowtie.

 

[DavidLane]

New suit, this thing is excellent:

-DL

 

[JohnMRobie]

Always great to see Antonio while he’s in town and catch up. Had a chance to have him over for dinner Monday and then we went out with some of his customers last night for steak. Caught up on the general state of tailoring in Naples and challenges the industry is facing. The family is staying very busy but are doing well.

I had two fittings. A LP seersucker for a 2nd fitting and then a Maison Hellard for a first fitting.

The LP is nearly ready to go. A couple spots to clean up but I am really excited for this thing.

The Maison Hellard is an experiment in a couple ways - First, Maison Hellard was accommodating enough to work with me on creating a limited run that I requested and we developed together (sold out already but Nathan might be convinced to do another run.) Second is seeing what happens when you ask a Neapolitan tailor to cut a Florentine-adjacent pattern (no front dart) and I think we are well on the right path. This will become a suit.

Planned out the next couple projects. A Fox Air suit in the cream/navy glencheck and another spring summer sport coat to be named later. Likely a brown to mix it up.

 

[Shetterd]

Always great to see Antonio while he’s in town and catch up. Had a chance to have him over for dinner Monday and then we went out with some of his customers last night for steak. Caught up on the general state of tailoring in Naples and challenges the industry is facing. The family is staying very busy but are doing well.

I had two fittings. A LP seersucker for a 2nd fitting and then a Maison Hellard for a first fitting.

The LP is nearly ready to go. A couple spots to clean up but I am really excited for this thing.

These are beautiful projects! I love the suits and coats Antonio has been making for you. How did you arrive at your usual pattern? The coats seem a bit roomier than I think he tends towards.

And how did the second fitting work? He seemed to say that he usually does only one.

 

[JohnMRobie]

These are beautiful projects! I love the suits and coats Antonio has been making for you. How did you arrive at your usual pattern? The coats seem a bit roomier than I think he tends towards.

And how did the second fitting work? He seemed to say that he usually does only one.

Thank you. The honest answer is that it was a process and took some playing with mainly making small tweaks here and there. My pattern has been relatively stable since about the 3rd commission with slightly more space being added to the waist over time as my weight fluctuates. My first two suits were pretty different from where we’ve ended up.

I pushed him for a slightly longer jacket with a bit more room, slightly more extended shoulders, a touch lower gorge but honestly I think he’s mainly hit his stride with knowing my body and measurements pretty well now that we are into double digits. We’ve butted heads a few times here and there over my requests but I also have settled into what I like from him. I don’t remember the last time I specified details on things like the shoulders or breast pocket, gorge or lapel width. I pick a cloth and tell him if I want a suit or a jacket.

As for the 2nd fitting here the LP seersucker is absurdly light. Like 180 grams or something silly. I think he wanted a second fitting. I didn’t request one but since he was coming and had another fitting so he thought it made sense to do another. I’ve done a combination of straight to finish and basted fittings. I just trust whatever he wants to do and don’t specify if I want a fitting or to go to finish - it’s whatever he thinks for that project. In one case I found out we bypassed the fitting when I got the invoice and shipping notification that the project was done. In this case I found out about the 2nd fitting when I didn’t see an invoice and opened the box and it wasn’t finished.

 

[Shetterd]

Thank you. The honest answer is that it was a process and took some playing with mainly making small tweaks here and there. My pattern has been relatively stable since about the 3rd commission with slightly more space being added to the waist over time as my weight fluctuates. My first two suits were pretty different from where we’ve ended up.

I pushed him for a slightly longer jacket with a bit more room, slightly more extended shoulders, a touch lower gorge but honestly I think he’s mainly hit his stride with knowing my body and measurements pretty well now that we are into double digits. We’ve butted heads a few times here and there over my requests but I also have settled into what I like from him. I don’t remember the last time I specified details on things like the shoulders or breast pocket, gorge or lapel width. I pick a cloth and tell him if I want a suit or a jacket.

As for the 2nd fitting here the LP seersucker is absurdly light. Like 180 grams or something silly. I think he wanted a second fitting. I didn’t request one but since he was coming and had another fitting so he thought it made sense to do another. I’ve done a combination of straight to finish and basted fittings. I just trust whatever he wants to do and don’t specify if I want a fitting or to go to finish - it’s whatever he thinks for that project. In one case I found out we bypassed the fitting when I got the invoice and shipping notification that the project was done. In this case I found out about the 2nd fitting when I didn’t see an invoice and opened the box and it wasn’t finished.

That seems really great! I have just received my first commission and enjoyed working with him and love the suit. Some small details were off, but nothing major.

The only problem is that there seems to be a bit of a collar gap, but he said he will take a look and I am sure it will turn out well. (Cloth is Ascot 4-ply.)

 

[Marshak]

Received my basted suit in the wool seersucker from Draper's. I didn't touched the LP but I'm fond of the Draper's and its texture. I need some more space to the waist. Otherwise it's all good.

 

[Viatu]

Received my basted suit in the wool seersucker from Draper's. I didn't touched the LP but I'm fond of the Draper's and its texture. I need some more space to the waist. Otherwise it's all good.

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Looks good. I'm considering a suit made from the same fabric.

 

[Megakurth]

That seems really great! I have just received my first commission and enjoyed working with him and love the suit. Some small details were off, but nothing major.

The only problem is that there seems to be a bit of a collar gap, but he said he will take a look and I am sure it will turn out well. (Cloth is Ascot 4-ply.)

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Are these natural or structured shoulders? Antonio hasn’t been able to completely solve the issue. I took one of my jackets to a local bespoke tailor and he was able to make it better but not solve it completely and thinks it’s because the shoulders may not account for enough slope on the one side and is pushing it up. I haven’t had this issue on my pastena jackets with spalla.