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The Unofficial Sartoria Pastena Elegance Naples Thread

kylebwells

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I actually like it when then line of the sleeve head is more more up and down than slanted. I am not sure what you call that. I know someone here could tell me the proper description.
 

Jmr928

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Thanks! I actually kind of like the look of a snug shoulder that lifts a little. Would be interesting to compare to your next order that was 1.5cm wider.
The shoulder that’s the correct width is more comfortable and looks better. Just double checked. It was 2cm. On the left the distance from the center seam to the edge is 24.5cm, on the right is 22.5cm
2CD2B313-3CD6-4C19-9CA4-4EE0AA82F49D.jpeg
 

PSNY

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Now that looks perfect! Was this measured in person? Or did you just adjust your previous remote bespoke fit?
 

Jmr928

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Now that looks perfect! Was this measured in person? Or did you just adjust your previous remote bespoke fit?
2nd in person project with adjustments for a weight gain between his 1st and 2nd visit.
 

PSNY

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Flawless any particular guidance you have him in terms of style such as length, lapel width, button height, gorge height, roominess of arms, chest, or extension of shoulders?

I am still hesitant of recommending button height to experienced tailors, I feel like they do a good job assessing ones physique and recommending a good balance.
 

PSNY

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Has anyone considered a commission with a lower gorge? A high gorge is very modern Napolitan, while Pastena's house style seems to be a mixture of traditional and modern Napolitan tailoring. A lower gorge align more with that traditional style, it is also likely to be in-style longer, but that is arguable given how popular Southern Italian tailoring has become.
 

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Sreezy36

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Has anyone considered a commission with a lower gorge? A high gorge is very modern Napolitan, while Pastena's house style seems to be a mixture of traditional and modern Napolitan tailoring. A lower gorge align more with that traditional style, it is also likely to be in-style longer, but that is arguable given how popular Southern Italian tailoring has become.
It is an idea that I am open to if needed. I always shoot for a proportional aesthetic. If a lower gorge placement is needed in an effort to achieve that particular aim, I am open it.
 

Jmr928

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Has anyone considered a commission with a lower gorge? A high gorge is very modern Napolitan, while Pastena's house style seems to be a mixture of traditional and modern Napolitan tailoring. A lower gorge align more with that traditional style, it is also likely to be in-style longer, but that is arguable given how popular Southern Italian tailoring has become.
@Wilson13 3 patch hopsack comes to mind. Pictures in the ongoing bespoke or unfunded liabilities thread.
 

Wilson13

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@Wilson13 3 patch hopsack comes to mind. Pictures in the ongoing bespoke or unfunded liabilities thread.
Yeah, in fact, I’ve requested a slightly-lower-than-his-normal gorge on all my stuff. That one specifically measures 3.5” down.
 

PSNY

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What is the consensus on gorge height? It is usually a matter of style and not so much proportions. When would one lower or increase gorge height?
 

Sreezy36

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I don’t think that there is a general consensus. It’s a matter of personal taste. I prefer more of a proportional aesthetic. Depending on the garment it could mean Either a higher or lower gorge position. On single breasted jackets that is either at, slightly above, or slightly below my collar bone.
 

Jmr928

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Personally for my proportions I like symmetry. If you visualize a straight line from each of my shoulders it roughly follows my collar bone. You’d have the end of my shoulder, my collar bone, the gorge, the bottom of my tie knot and my shirt collar points all in a straight line.
 

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