The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[RahnDail]

Definitely oxblood. I'm actually selling my bordeaux. But it boils down to preference and context.

My decision is based on what I'm comfortable wearing, how it pairs with the rest of my wardrobe and versatility.

Basically, if you're comfortable with wearing more daring colours, bordeaux is fine. For me, one pair (gold museum) is enough. And I feel that gold museum is more different from regular offers than bordeaux that I want to keep it instead of the latter.

Secondly, put it in context. What does your wardrobe look like and what pairs well with it? For me, my SS tailored wardrobe consists of 95 % suits (formal and casual) which pairs better with my other formal shoes (black and mid brown) and loafers. My FW tailored wardrobe is 50/50 suits and SCs/odd trousers. My bordeaux shoes are cap toe oxfords, so very formal. With suits, I just prefer more understated shoes than the bordeaux, although it does look great with suits as well. For SCs, I prefer other more casual shoes like derbies.

Last, how large is your shoe rotation? Mine is large. I don't really need the versatility, but I appreciate it. Plus, I love the oxblood. It has the advantages of brown and burgundy. And it's so dark that in darker settings it almost looks black. So it goes with basically everything.

"Objectively" speaking, oxblood pairs better with more. But always assess in context and how well something pairs with your style and wardrobe.

Dammit man, now you've got me thinking of the oxblood color now, hah. Solid argument about the versatility. Do you have any other reference pics you could share of that color?

In terms of where I'm at with ironing out my three-shoe rotation, I'm currently at a Alt English in black, Carlos Santos 9899 in dark oak (just came in and look lovely), and tossing up between a deeper oxblood or lighter bordeaux museum. I'd consider adding a fourth shoe to the rotation one day, so maybe I'll save that slot for something more daring, like the gold museum from Vass or someone else.

(Edit: dang, just realized oxblood doesn't seem to be on their current rtw offerings. Any other darker/versatile oxblood recs welcome)

 

[DonRaphael]

Dammit man, now you've got me thinking of the oxblood color now, hah. Solid argument about the versatility. Do you have any other reference pics you could share of that color?

In terms of where I'm at with ironing out my three-shoe rotation, I'm currently at a Alt English in black, Carlos Santos 9899 in dark oak (just came in and look lovely), and tossing up between a deeper oxblood or lighter bordeaux museum. I'd consider adding a fourth shoe to the rotation one day, so maybe I'll save that slot for something more daring, like the gold museum from Vass or someone else.

(Edit: dang, just realized oxblood doesn't seem to be on their current rtw offerings. Any other darker/versatile oxblood recs welcome)

If you go back a few pages you'll see several posts where I've attached pics of various oxblood coloured shoes.

Imo, Vass' oxblood is unique. I've never come across a true oxblood colour with another company. That's what makes it special.

Cobbler Union's oxblood is more reminiscent of Vass' bordeaux museum. It's clearly more red than Vass', which is deep brownish red.

 

[RahnDail]

If you go back a few pages you'll see several posts where I've attached pics of various oxblood coloured shoes.

Imo, Vass' oxblood is unique. I've never come across a true oxblood colour with another company. That's what makes it special.

Cobbler Union's oxblood is more reminiscent of Vass' bordeaux museum. It's clearly more red than Vass', which is deep brownish red.
View attachment 1817738

Got it, apologies for my laziness, just saw some of your oxbloods and damn, the Alt English in particular is 👌. If I go that route the only way is MTO, so hopefully Vass gets back to me. Already sent them emails about sizing and colors for bordeaux museum lol. So, wish me luck with my third email... But I'm anticipating a while for them to respond.

Thanks again for the input man. I can tell you're a big Vass fan, so you're serving as an important resource for a lot of us out here.

 

[DonRaphael]

Got it, apologies for my laziness, just saw some of your oxbloods and damn, the Alt English in particular is 👌. If I go that route the only way is MTO, so hopefully Vass gets back to me. Already sent them emails about sizing and colors for bordeaux museum lol. So, wish me luck with my third email... But I'm anticipating a while for them to respond.

Thanks again for the input man. I can tell you're a big Vass fan, so you're serving as an important resource for a lot of us out here.

My pleasure mate. Just let me know if you need anything else.

Vass may be closed for the summer now, so any response may take some time.

 

[phsiao08]

Question for the group. Adding shoe trees is a no brainer but how about rubber half sole and metal toe. I live in New York I'm just thinking about the rainy weather now and the salt on the roads during wintertime... any and all feedback is great!

 

[RahnDail]

If you go back a few pages you'll see several posts where I've attached pics of various oxblood coloured shoes.

Imo, Vass' oxblood is unique. I've never come across a true oxblood colour with another company. That's what makes it special.

Cobbler Union's oxblood is more reminiscent of Vass' bordeaux museum. It's clearly more red than Vass', which is deep brownish red.
View attachment 1817738

Another thought since you have em in both finishes: how's the finish compare between CU and Vass for their oxblood museum/bordeaux museum respectively in person? They seem similar on first glance but perhaps CU's is less dark/redder whereas Vass' is darker/more purple. Also curious your impressions on CU in general.

 

[DonRaphael]

Another thought since you have em in both finishes: how's the finish compare between CU and Vass for their oxblood museum/bordeaux museum respectively in person? They seem similar on first glance but perhaps CU's is less dark/redder whereas Vass' is darker/more purple. Also curious your impressions on CU in general.

You're correct in your observation regarding colour. As for impressions, the CU leather quality felt inferior. It felt dryer and stiffer compared to Vass.

 

[RahnDail]

The representative at Vass got back to me on what shades of their bordeaux museum they have in stock, which in my size is just this pair. It's hard to tell but I think these were taken outside, so I'd imagine in person they're a little darker. Although they're beautiful, I wonder if it's possible to darken them a little myself, anyone have experience with this? I asked the rep about this and since their workshop is closed for August I'd have to wait til then to get them shipped if I were to have them do it for me. That said, if I wind up getting a custom oxblood pair as well, maybe I'd like to have both a lighter and darker pair of "oxblood" shoes.

 

[Shawl Lapel]

Question for the group. Adding shoe trees is a no brainer but how about rubber half sole and metal toe. I live in New York I'm just thinking about the rainy weather now and the salt on the roads during wintertime... any and all feedback is great!

If you're going to wear the shoes in the salty winter then I'd get a full rubber sole or dedicate another pair to winter duty. Occasional wet won't kill leather soles but if you foresee often walking through rain a rubber half sole could be a good idea. I always get toe taps, they're cheap protection from uneven sidewalks.

 

[phsiao08]

BTW does anyone know what happened to the Nordic Fit?

 

[RahnDail]

An update on my purchase: here are some photos. Alt English in bordeaux museum. I actually like the color, much darker than the photos Vass had shared with me, and would fit well into my three piece shoe rotation. Maybe slightly too dark for my liking, would like a little bit more of the reds to shine through. Curious anyone's thoughts on the fit though, namely in two areas:

1. The vamp. Although it doesn't close completely, I'm curious in your experiences if the leather stretches over time to allow it to close further?

2. I pointed out where my big toe lands (thumb) and little toe lands (pointer finger). I'm a little concerned they may be too long, which may cause weird creasing below the cap toe, but if I size down I'm afraid the vamp may be even wider at the instep. That said, I could try out MTM instead, but kinda bummed I'd have to wait.

Any input appreciated.

 

[wdrenth]

An update on my purchase: here are some photos. Alt English in bordeaux museum. I actually like the color, much darker than the photos Vass had shared with me, and would fit well into my three piece shoe rotation. Maybe slightly too dark for my liking, would like a little bit more of the reds to shine through. Curious anyone's thoughts on the fit though, namely in two areas:

1. The vamp. Although it doesn't close completely, I'm curious in your experiences if the leather stretches over time to allow it to close further?

2. I pointed out where my big toe lands (thumb) and little toe lands (pointer finger). I'm a little concerned they may be too long, which may cause weird creasing below the cap toe, but if I size down I'm afraid the vamp may be even wider at the instep. That said, I could try out MTM instead, but kinda bummed I'd have to wait.

Any input appreciated.

First of all congratulations with this nice pair. Is this Vass' F-last?

As to the vamp question: a little V is perfectly fine. Over time, when you have worn the shoes longer and the cork has compressed a little to you feet, it will become better. From experience: shoes that already close the V into a | from day 0 tend to become too roomy after a while

As to your length question, I too find the F-last a bit lengthy, but that also the shape. But more important is how the shoe fits around your heel and instep -- that is what gives support and where the shoe should fit well. Less so for the toe area, where the designers have freedom to make the shoe rounder, of pointier, of chiseled, etc.
How much movement do your toes have? If everything fits reasonably tights and secure, I would not worry about creasing. Otherwise a half insole can help to reduce the volume.
How do these shoes compare to other captoes you have? Where does the big toe end up?


-- Wienand

 

[phsiao08]

An update on my purchase: here are some photos. Alt English in bordeaux museum. I actually like the color, much darker than the photos Vass had shared with me, and would fit well into my three piece shoe rotation. Maybe slightly too dark for my liking, would like a little bit more of the reds to shine through. Curious anyone's thoughts on the fit though, namely in two areas:

1. The vamp. Although it doesn't close completely, I'm curious in your experiences if the leather stretches over time to allow it to close further?

2. I pointed out where my big toe lands (thumb) and little toe lands (pointer finger). I'm a little concerned they may be too long, which may cause weird creasing below the cap toe, but if I size down I'm afraid the vamp may be even wider at the instep. That said, I could try out MTM instead, but kinda bummed I'd have to wait.

Any input appreciated.

Which last is this?

 

[RahnDail]

Which last is this?

These are on the F last.

 

[RahnDail]

First of all congratulations with this nice pair. Is this Vass' F-last?

As to the vamp question: a little V is perfectly fine. Over time, when you have worn the shoes longer and the cork has compressed a little to you feet, it will become better. From experience: shoes that already close the V into a | from day 0 tend to become too roomy after a while

As to your length question, I too find the F-last a bit lengthy, but that also the shape. But more important is how the shoe fits around your heel and instep -- that is what gives support and where the shoe should fit well. Less so for the toe area, where the designers have freedom to make the shoe rounder, of pointier, of chiseled, etc.
How much movement do your toes have? If everything fits reasonably tights and secure, I would not worry about creasing. Otherwise a half insole can help to reduce the volume.
How do these shoes compare to other captoes you have? Where does the big toe end up?


-- Wienand

Appreciate the response! Yes, these are on the F last. They're slightly longer than some of my other oxfords, so I suppose that's in expectation given how the last was designed.

As for the heel and instep, everything feels pretty solid. The instep in particular feels pretty great, as I typically have issues with that area given my higher instep.