The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[blekit]

My two purchases from this year:

Norwegers in antique cognac scotchgrain leather on Vibram commando sole. P last, size 44.5. I went half a size up from my regular size (I have two pairs of Vass oxfords on F last in size 44) and it was a good decision - these are considerably shorter. I've already had them on a couple of times and I'm 100% satisfied.

Chukkas from deer brown suede on Dainite sole. F last in size 44. With this pair there was a bit of confusion. Vass originally sent me shoes in size 43.5. I had to sent them back and wait a bit for a pair in correct size (the shoemakers were on vacations and they didn't have this size in stock). After a couple of weeks these arrived - this time everything was fine. I didn't have a chance to take them on a maiden voyage so I'm posting some photos I took at home.

 

[jayteee]

W

hich Vass last are you comparing with?

F last Budapest derby, P2 last London derby and Budapest derby, and U last Budapest Oxford. I was surprised even the casual P2 derbies from Vass had a more stylish profile than the AE Oxford. Vass literally has a smaller footprint (by a half inch) but has more room inside on pressure points like toes. Guess that's what you're paying for.

 

[LThomsen]

I picked up a pair of $199 Allen Edmonds Oxfords, which are good value for the price. But it gave me a chance to compare with my growing Vass collection:

--- the AE shoes look much clunkier: half an inch longer and wider in the toe box, despite the fact that the model I got was their "sleek, European style" shoe with a squarish toe (Cornwallis).

--- Vass heels are much sleeker, being attached without the 360 degree welt. AE heels look huge side by side with Vass. Vass heels provide that pleasing suction sound when you stick your foot in.

--- Despite the AE's greater length and width, the Vass shoes are more comfortable. Vass hugs your feet without pressuring your toes. AE is wide but still pinches here and there, while being a little loose in the heel.

--- The Vass derbies (supposedly a casual shoe) look more elegant than the AE Oxford, owing to the clunky dimensions of the AE.

--- Vass comes with JR soles, which, legend has it, last twice as long as AE's standard soles. Plus AE soles have open stitching, not closed like Vass'.

--- AE's lower heel height aids walking. Vass' higher heels can make it feel sometimes like you're pitching forward, at least when shoes are new.

--- AE calfskin seems comparable to Vass leather, not including Vass museum calf, which seems higher grade.

--- Since AE are more rustic and cheaper, you worry less about scuffing them up or getting them rained on. It's like being less concerned about denting your Ford escort (AE) than your Audi (Vass). They're a good bad weather shoe.

Overall, AE shoes at steep discount are acceptable. But when you consider you can get Vass for $325 these days, I think the choice is easy.

Which AE oxford are you referring to ( park ave, 5th ave..)?

 

[Jan Capek]

Just ordered these; for 220 euros, they seem like a steal! BP last, dark cognac leather and scotch grain on double JR leather

View attachment 1477210

Best of luck with the fit. I have them on a 3636 and I am glad I got them.

 

[Jan Capek]

My two purchases from this year:

Norwegers in antique cognac scotchgrain leather on Vibram commando sole. P last, size 44.5. I went half a size up from my regular size (I have two pairs of Vass oxfords on F last in size 44) and it was a good decision - these are considerably shorter. I've already had them on a couple of times and I'm 100% satisfied.
View attachment 1478314
View attachment 1478313

I got myself the exact same Norwegers on 44, also half a size up. Aren't they beautiful? I was a bit worried about getting them on a Vibram, but as your image demonstrates, the good thing about having larger feet is that Vibram doesn't destroy the appeal of dressier shoes.

 

[jayteee]

Which AE oxford are you referring to ( park ave, 5th ave..)?

It was the Cornwallis, which is on a relatively recent squared off last meant to mimic European shoes. The Park Avenue is a classic, but I find the last too long, probably 3/4 inch longer than comparably sized Vass. When your foot is already nearly a size 12, you don't need another inch added to your shoe.

 

[Potatoe]

F last Budapest derby, P2 last London derby and Budapest derby, and U last Budapest Oxford. I was surprised even the casual P2 derbies from Vass had a more stylish profile than the AE Oxford. Vass literally has a smaller footprint (by a half inch) but has more room inside on pressure points like toes. Guess that's what you're paying for.

Yeah I have a pair of P2s and they are very sleek for what is supposed to be a more casual shoe. To be honest I wouldn't consider P2 all that casual. Budapesters on BP and perhaps those Norweigers on commando soles are the only shoes I think would qualify as casual.

 

[LThomsen]

I picked up a pair of $199 Allen Edmonds Oxfords, which are good value for the price. But it gave me a chance to compare with my growing Vass collection:

--- the AE shoes look much clunkier: half an inch longer and wider in the toe box, despite the fact that the model I got was their "sleek, European style" shoe with a squarish toe (Cornwallis).

--- Vass heels are much sleeker, being attached without the 360 degree welt. AE heels look huge side by side with Vass. Vass heels provide that pleasing suction sound when you stick your foot in.

--- Despite the AE's greater length and width, the Vass shoes are more comfortable. Vass hugs your feet without pressuring your toes. AE is wide but still pinches here and there, while being a little loose in the heel.

--- The Vass derbies (supposedly a casual shoe) look more elegant than the AE Oxford, owing to the clunky dimensions of the AE.

--- Vass comes with JR soles, which, legend has it, last twice as long as AE's standard soles. Plus AE soles have open stitching, not closed like Vass'.

--- AE's lower heel height aids walking. Vass' higher heels can make it feel sometimes like you're pitching forward, at least when shoes are new.

--- AE calfskin seems comparable to Vass leather, not including Vass museum calf, which seems higher grade.

--- Since AE are more rustic and cheaper, you worry less about scuffing them up or getting them rained on. It's like being less concerned about denting your Ford escort (AE) than your Audi (Vass). They're a good bad weather shoe.

Overall, AE shoes at steep discount are acceptable. But when you consider you can get Vass for $325 these days, I think the choice is easy.

I agree about AE being a good bad weather shoe. In the last few yrs I have been wearing my shell cordavan shoes from AE, Alden, and Rancourt during adverse weather conditions and the cooler /colder days in Philadelphia.

 

[JUAN MANUEL]

My two purchases from this year:

Norwegers in antique cognac scotchgrain leather on Vibram commando sole. P last, size 44.5. I went half a size up from my regular size (I have two pairs of Vass oxfords on F last in size 44) and it was a good decision - these are considerably shorter. I've already had them on a couple of times and I'm 100% satisfied.
View attachment 1478314
View attachment 1478313

Chukkas from deer brown suede on Dainite sole. F last in size 44. With this pair there was a bit of confusion. Vass originally sent me shoes in size 43.5. I had to sent them back and wait a bit for a pair in correct size (the shoemakers were on vacations and they didn't have this size in stock). After a couple of weeks these arrived - this time everything was fine. I didn't have a chance to take them on a maiden voyage so I'm posting some photos I took at home.
View attachment 1478310
View attachment 1478311
View attachment 1478309

Hello

Great shoes. Can you share wich size and last you use in UK brands to make a comparison?

Regards

 

[CWV]

When you say usually a 42, what do you mean by usual? Do you have any prior experience with other known or established shoe makers? If so, let us know your size, last and maker and I'm sure we'll be able to guide you. I own/owned most brands mentioned around these forums, so I'll try to help you as much as I can.

Thx!
Well not many comparables. My cheap Florsheim un US9D fit me spot on. I have a CJ chukka US 9D on the 324 last that fits me well save for my little right toe rubbing on the side (I still have to try taking them to a cobbler to stretch a bit). I have a Locke capital last in UK8 that also hurt my litke toe and did not stretch at the cobbler (maybe the 1880 line leather does not stretch much or maybe , as I bought them used, they had already given to another foot). My other shoes are not international brands.
I don’t think I have wide feet, rather that mi right little toe is kind of angled outwards.
I hope you can help. I would really like a U last.

 

[DonRaphael]

Thx!
Well not many comparables. My cheap Florsheim un US9D fit me spot on. I have a CJ chukka US 9D on the 324 last that fits me well save for my little right toe rubbing on the side (I still have to try taking them to a cobbler to stretch a bit). I have a Locke capital last in UK8 that also hurt my litke toe and did not stretch at the cobbler (maybe the 1880 line leather does not stretch much or maybe , as I bought them used, they had already given to another foot). My other shoes are not international brands.
I don’t think I have wide feet, rather that mi right little toe is kind of angled outwards.
I hope you can help. I would really like a U last.

Judging by your issues with C&J and Loake, the U last might not fit you as the U is narrower in the toe area than the 324 and Capital lasts. F last might be a better option for you as it has more room in the toe area. For comparisons sake these are my sizes in the lasts mentioned (all standard width):

C&J 324: UK7,5E
Loake Capital: UK7,5E
Vass U: EU41,5
Vass F: EU41

 

[CWV]

Judging by your issues with C&J and Loake, the U last might not fit you as the U is narrower in the toe area than the 324 and Capital lasts. F last might be a better option for you as it has more room in the toe area. For comparisons sake these are my sizes in the lasts mentioned (all standard width):

C&J 324: UK7,5E
Loake Capital: UK7,5E
Vass U: EU41,5
Vass F: EU41

you think a 42,5 would cause me issues in a U last?

 

[DonRaphael]

you think a 42,5 would cause me issues in a U last?

Probably width wise. But it might be to long and thus crease at the wrong places across the vamp. I wouldn't recommend sizing up for the sake of width. I've done it with another brand and ended up selling the shoes. Ask for a wide width instead but in size 42.

 

[CWV]

Probably width wise. But it might be to long and thus crease at the wrong places across the vamp. I wouldn't recommend sizing up for the sake of width. I've done it with another brand and ended up selling the shoes. Ask for a wide width instead but in size 42.

That’s a good idea. Thanks!

 

[DonRaphael]

That’s a good idea. Thanks!

No problem. Although, for your information not all people size up from F last to U last. Some use the same size while others size up 1/2 size like me. Having said that, you mighr be good with 41,5 as well. If I were you, I'd email Vass for help. And I'd ask if you can return the shoes if they don't fit. That might not be possible with MTOs where you ask for a wider width.