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Regular GY welt.
You may want to check with B. Nelson. Otherwise, you can always pack them up and send them to Budapest.
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Regular GY welt.
Correct. I used GY vs Goyser to distinguish the two constructions. Both are of course hand-welted at Vass - they don't own a Goodyear machineGY = Goodyear
I must of been mistaken, thinking that all Vass were hand welted.
Correct. I used GY vs Goyser to distinguish the two constructions. Both are of course hand-welted at Vass - they don't own a Goodyear machine
I have had them do exactly this (toe tap + heel on a double sole). As long as enough of the toe is left for him to do the normal flush tap, it is a great solution.Yes, good point. But that raises a good question: Given that they are hand-welted, is B Nelson even a good option? Has anyone had Vass shoes resoled at B Nelson?
My pair of Vass in question have a double sole, and the wear is really on the toe and the heel. So maybe I just have B Nelson put on toe taps and replace the half-rubber back part of the heel?
Are those three piece shoe trees? I thought they were not available for half sizes?
Are those three piece shoe trees? I thought they were not available for half sizes?
I have a pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenue and I don't find the cap to be that stubby. Their shoes are kind of stubby to begin with so an elongated cap would look kind of funny IMHO. As to the difference between the two cap toe shoes you posted I think it's largely due to one being brogued (taking up more space) and the other being a stitched cap. And they're on the F last. I think a non-brogued cap top in the U or K last would serve you better.Very quick n00b question: Do any of you feel that some of the captoe models have a stubby toe cap like those on the PA/5th Ave from AE? I have since begun buying Carmina shoes because I began to detest the small toe cap that come on many AE shoes. I want to venture into VASS as I have very hard-to-fit feet. Looking at some of the shoes on the first page, the toe caps seem unusually short for such long and elegant shoes. I think what I'm specifically referring to is the length of the toe cap in relation to the length of the vamp: http://s165.photobucket.com/user/green-tea88/media/Vass/IMG_5539.jpg.html The cap toe oxford in the pic linked above is an example of what I mean. It has 6 eyelets though, and may be the culprit? This black one on the other hand has very aesthetically pleasing proportions:Even this wingtip has a vamp that looks very long relative to the "wing-section"Please let me know if you find this to be true and why it is made that way. If I visit him to buy the custom versions, can I simply request that he made the toe-section longer?
I have a pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenue and I don't find the cap to be that stubby. Their shoes are kind of stubby to begin with so an elongated cap would look kind of funny IMHO.
As to the difference between the two cap toe shoes you posted I think it's largely due to one being brogued (taking up more space) and the other being a stitched cap. And they're on the F last. I think a non-brogued cap top in the U or K last would serve you better.
Vass can move the cap toe back if you like but this is something so nitpicky and personal that unless you're right on top of them in the design phase I'm not sure if you'll be happy. If you move it too far back the toe stiffener could end before the cap potentially allowing creases to form in front of the cap instead of behind it on the vamp. You may or may not find this aesthetically pleasing.
Does anyone have pics of a chukka in f last antique cognac? Thinking of this for my next make up.
It was worth the bump for everyone to see. Those boots!Search and you will find.I actually posted a bunch of pictures of exactly this make up in this thread a few years back:
Only full sizes.The standard (w the spring-shaft thing) vass trees are only available in full sizes, afaik. Dont know about 3 piece trees.